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Question for you guys with "ball" style shift knobs...

Old May 9, 2009 | 11:58 AM
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Default Question for you guys with "ball" style shift *****...

I just installed a new B&M short throw shifter. I also purchased a HURST shift **** (ball style). When I put the HURST **** on, it sits WAY too high, i've seen a few photos around where the shift ball sits pretty low, maybe a few inches above the radio bezel, how do you get it to do that? I think it looks really bad with the ball sitting so high.

Did you guys cut the shifter and re-weld it or is there a shifter out that that is really low?

Here is a picture, see how low the ball sits? Mine is about 3-4" higher, and it looks terrible!



Here is an idea on how mine looks, and I hate it!
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Old May 12, 2009 | 09:49 AM
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Anyone?
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Old May 12, 2009 | 09:58 AM
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I actually cut an inch or possibly even an inch and a half out of the hurst stick on mine and welded it back together. Sits nice and low but you do lose some of your leverage and its harder to shift.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 09:58 AM
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That first shot sure looks like the shifter was shortened and rethreaded. Unfortunately, having a traditional short-shifter with a "lever arm" that short would make shifting a "pumping iron" experience. The other factor is how deeply the shift **** is threaded. The version you see in my avatar is threaded as deeply as possible and is shown threaded onto an unshortened BPP shifter.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 10:13 AM
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I ended up just making my own. A friend of mine has the same MGW shifter I do with one of their ***** and it feels too high. I ended up making my own **** and threading it all the way up to within about .25" from the top. That got it down where I wanted it. Kinda hard to shift, but ya get used to it
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Old May 12, 2009 | 10:57 AM
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I have the same set up.

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Old May 12, 2009 | 11:03 AM
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You just have to decide ease of shifting vs looks. I went with looks LOL plus I can still shift much faster than stock so I'm happy
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Old May 12, 2009 | 01:01 PM
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Cut off 1 3/4" and ran a thread die down as far as possible. Kirban shifter. Definitely harder to shift but fun!
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Old May 12, 2009 | 01:08 PM
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You can easily cut off 3/4" from the 9/16-18" lever threads to lower a ****. Measure, use masking tape to protect the threads, cut evenly with a fine tooth hack saw, dress the threads and attach the ****.

Some have cut even more of the lever and re-threaded the lever. You need the correct die, a fine tooth hacksaw (or air tool), cutting oil, masking tape, patience and some DIY confidence.

Removing to much might look better, but it also might add to the shifting effort.


Last edited by hotwheels57; May 12, 2009 at 02:26 PM.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 02:16 PM
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I want to use my B&M shifter still, but I just want it to sit like 1-1.5" lower.

The Hurst ball is threaded as deep as you can possibly go.

My question is, would it be easier to cut 1-1.5" off the top of the shifter (where its threaded) and re-thread it or cut 1-1.5" off the middle and re-weld it?
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Old May 12, 2009 | 02:23 PM
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If you're planning on doing the modification yourself, it depends on your skill level, tools and confidence.

Mine is a B&M "Sport" with the HURST **** and no modifications to the lever...
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Old May 12, 2009 | 04:59 PM
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also cut the shaft down about 3/4"

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Old May 13, 2009 | 10:01 AM
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I have access to pretty much any tool I need, I just want to know what will be easier/better to do, cut out a 1" piece from the center of the shifter and weld it together or cut 1" off the top and re-thread if necessary?
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Old May 13, 2009 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Esp0
I have access to pretty much any tool I need, I just want to know what will be easier/better to do, cut out a 1" piece from the center of the shifter and weld it together or cut 1" off the top and re-thread if necessary?
I have a machine shop and TIG welder etc. MUCH easier to run the die down as far as it can go, leave it there, cut the excess length off the top, deburr the end, then chase the threads by unwinding the die back to the top. A little blue (removable) Locktite on the threads then screw on the ball. Done!
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Old May 15, 2009 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000BC
I have a machine shop and TIG welder etc. MUCH easier to run the die down as far as it can go, leave it there, cut the excess length off the top, deburr the end, then chase the threads by unwinding the die back to the top. A little blue (removable) Locktite on the threads then screw on the ball. Done!
That sounds like the easiest way.
What die do I need to use? What is the thread for the stock shifter?
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Old May 15, 2009 | 04:00 PM
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9/16-18
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Old May 15, 2009 | 04:42 PM
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Does this look too tall? This is standard length Hurst shifter.
You make it much shorter, with the already shorter throw, and shifting effort will increase significantly.


Last edited by TEXHAWK0; May 15, 2009 at 04:46 PM.
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To Question for you guys with "ball" style shift knobs...

Old May 15, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0
Does this look too tall? This is standard length Hurst shifter.
You make it much shorter, with the already shorter throw, and shifting effort will increase significantly.

Make sure you know what you want before you start cutting. My cut down Kirban in the 2000 is way harder to shift than the un-modified Hurst in my 99. But, it's exactly what I wanted.
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Old May 15, 2009 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Esp0
I want to use my B&M shifter still, but I just want it to sit like 1-1.5" lower.

The Hurst ball is threaded as deep as you can possibly go.

My question is, would it be easier to cut 1-1.5" off the top of the shifter (where its threaded) and re-thread it or cut 1-1.5" off the middle and re-weld it?
I had a B&M Ripper shifter with the round, Hurst shift **** and it was fine. I certainly didn't think it was too high. Mine looked like the picture posted by TEXHAWKO. I just installed an MGW shifter and haven't put the **** back ob yet.
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Old May 16, 2009 | 09:15 AM
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My buddy had a hurst shifter (I think) and he cut it down so it basically sat in the shift boot, and it was pretty hard to shift, I dont want mine to sit that low, but a lot lower than the last picture posted, it looks too awkward to me, and needs to be an inch or so lower.

I am going to thread the shaft as far down as I possibly can, and then cut off what I want from the top.
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