Has anybody had problems with their window regulator? Where can i get just the regulator and how much will they cost? I have already had a couple of quotes between $370 and a high of $479!!!
Thanks!

 

ttt

 

Ask your Chevy dealer where they buy them when GM is out of them. In San Antonio, dealers use "Full Service Auto Parts." Retail is about $130 or so. Not sure how good they are. On ebay, you can buy some for $50 or so, but I suspect they are junk. 100% feedback contorts the picture because buyer provides feedback within days. Failure of part occurs months later.

Two parts fail on the regulators. Either the ball on the end of the cable falls apart, or the plastic parts on the regulator just crack. I just bought a used regulator from a mechanic at GM dealership plus a tube of J B Weld. It will be interesting to see how long the glue holds.

You asked a tough question, man. No cheap answer.

BTW, all cars, American, German, ***, etc are having major problems with regulator failures. Best thing is to learn to replace them yourself. Dealer total charge = $600 or so.

 

Thanks for the info. I will keep searching.

 

I got one from my 99. Car as 44k miles on it. PM me if your interested, send me your e-mail and I'll send u pictures.

 

Its a common problem

Bakersfield posted the definitive thread on this issue link below

You could try the relay mod if you cant get a spare or its too expensive but try one of the Forum vendors for the best price. Bob at Fichtner Chevrolet or Gene Culley should fix you up.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ht=door+module

 

I had this saved on my computer a while back. Hope it helps.

Here's a DIY version I saw a while back. Been thinking of doing this myself in the near future...

"C5 air bag removal


Here is the 'full meal deal' so to speak.....includes steering wheel remove-replace and trick to fool the computer into thinking an airbag is still in place. Remember, removing an airbag is for off-road use or racing purposes only. Please read and understand the Legal Disclaimer and Warning at the bottom of this posting.

Airbag removal
No need to disconnect the battery.
Make sure the wheels are straight ahead.
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Remove the key from the ignition.
Remove the front floor kick-up panel to access the fuses.

Remove the SDM Fuse from the I/P fuse block.
Remove the left sound insulator; the one under the steering wheel.

Remove the connector position assurance (CPA) from the inflatable restraint steering wheel module coil, airbag, connector located at the base of the steering column. This is a sliding device that keeps the YELLOW connector with wires that feed up in to the steering column, from accidentally coming apart.

Then disconnect the YELLOW connector. This step is important, since the connector on the bag side has a shorting bar, which shorts the contacts the minute the connector halves are disconnected. Shorting the connector contacts prevents any chance of accidentally blowing the bag.

Remove the Torx screws retaining the inflatable restraint module , airbag, to the steering wheel.

Remove the airbag module from the steering wheel.

Disconnect the connector position assurance (CPA) from the electrical connector on the module coil.

Disconnect the electrical connector from the back of the steering wheel module.

Disconnect the horn wiring harness from the steering column.

Disconnect the ground wire from the steering column.

Remove the steering wheel module from the vehicle. (For safety, place the bag on the floor with the bag facing upwards. Do not lay the bag on the floor with the bag facing down. If it discharged with the bag down it would ballistically launch itself creating an extreme safety hazard. If it accidentally discharges with the bag facing up it will bang and release white cornstarch powder, but will largely stay in place.

Steering wheel removal
Remove the steering wheel nut and discard, A new one is required.
Set up the puller and remove the steering wheel. Most universal pulley removers will work. Be careful not to damage the wheel if you are going to reuse.
To install, reverse the procedure.
Steering wheel nut torque: 41 N•m (30 lb ft).
Air bag screw torque: 6 N•m (54 lb in).

Airbag re-install
Reverse removal procedure
Make sure to install the connector position assurance devices into all the connectors that have been disconnected, especially the YELLOW air bag system connectors.

Install the fuse and both kick panels.

Turn the ignition switch to ON, and keep away from either of the bags just in case of a accidental discharge.
If everything is OK the air bag indicator will flash seven times and then go off. If you do not get seven flashes, or if the light does not go off, something is wrong.

If you are removing the airbag 'for racing purposes only, off road use only' and wish to NOT have an airbag failure warning light glow, you must install a 2 ohm 5 watt or larger resistor across the harness that connects to the airbag. Assuming that you do not have a new connector of the same type that is removed with the airbag itself, the resistor can just be solder spliced into the wires leading to the yellow connector, of course the body harness side.




If you wish to effectively destroy the airbag for future re-installation, you can cut off the yellow plug from the airbag harness leaving enough wire to work with...and solder the resistor to the 2 wires. Properly insulate the joints, and re-install the plug back into the main harness. Re-installing the plug 'opens' its internal shorting bar and allows the 2 ohm load to be sensed by the Body Control Module. In the absence of the airbag and its wiring harness, the resistor mimics the impedance of the airbag itself so that when the BCM computer checks the assorted circuits around the car, it thinks the airbag is still in place.

Protect the discarded airbag
Please note that with the self-shorting plug now removed from the discarded airbag, the airbag could be accidentally discharged. TO prevent this, strip the insulation from the 2 wires and twist them together to provide a 'permanent short circuit. If you ever plan to re-use the airbag, DO NOT perform the procedure to cut off the plug. You might find a plug at a dismantling yard from a deployed airbag if you want to mount the resistor with a plug rather that soldering it into the main harness.

LEGAL STUFF...I am neither condoning nor encouraging anyone to modify any aspect of any car that may affect engineered safety systems. Information is provided for general knowledge only. No liability is inferred or expressed, and specifically denied. Any safety equipment disabling or modification performed by anyone must be the sole responsibility of that person or their agent doing the modification. Safety equipment standards for street registered, street legal vehicles are different than those standards established by various sanctioning bodies involved in oversight of off road vehicle activities. Any and all modifications are performed at owner/operators own risk! "

 

You can send the regulator off to be rebuilt at RegulatorUSA.com
There are always used ones for sale on eBay, and even new ones at lower than dealer cost.
http://www.regulatorusa.com/product_...41&product=122

 

What does this have to do with a window regulator??

 

Are you sure it needs replacing? My PS window wouldn't go down so I
pulled the whole regulator mechanism out, took the motor apart,
cleaned the commutator and brushes, added some grease, put it
all back together and it works fine. I didn't really see anything that
I could point to and say that's what the problem was.
Oh, and while I had the motor apart I checked each of the windings
and they all read exactly the same - .5 ohms. No shorts or opens.
I did a writeup on it, but not on this site.

 

Thank you, I was thought I was missing something here

 

sorry guys, I posted in the wrong thread. Thats what I get for trying to have reply to two threads at once.

 

Tells us more about the exact problem. If the window relay clicks and the window just does not go down, it could just be stuck.
I have a theory that since there are no limit switches and the motor stops by just jamming up against the stops, the drive mechanism can get jammed. I have started bumping my window down a fraction of an inch from full up to reverse the load on the motor and drive, and it has not stuck since.

If it is making grinding noises, that is a different problem.

Let us know.

 

You can't just get the regulator without the motor because sooner or later they both go, so they just come now as a standard kit. I would be happy to help you out with one.

 

Thanks to everyone for your help. I ended up paying $385 for the regulator and motor and installation. Do you think I got a good deal? The cable was frayed and about to break. Lucky it didnt break while it was down!!! Thanks!