I installed the rear area a couple of weeks ago and I Finlay finished the entire car on the weekend.
I was pleasantly surprised on how much road noise this product drowns out. The center console is also quite a bit cooler.
You still hear the beautiful exhaust sound, but the annoying road noise is greatly diminished.

Once installed you will be amazed on how good the factory radio sounds; you don't need to crank up the volume at highway speeds.
You can actually carry on a conversation with you passenger and hear someone talking on your cell phone.

The kit is fairly easy to install, you will need to budget on most of the day to complete the job. I would also recommend two rolls of tape.

While my car was apart I also installed new door lock relay's.

Now I can install headers without worrying about too much cabin noise.

 

Great write up.

Couple comments:

1. For everyone doing the soundproofing mod with the lightweight insulation under the carpet you would get a huge improvement if you put in at least a small amount of Dynamat type sound deadener. Doesn't need to be that brand but the difference is that it is a heavy mat that sticks to the panels to make less vibration and less noise. Don't need to do the whole interior but just some on the middle of the large panels would be a huge improvement along with the light insulation mat. Just buy one package, saw 30 sq feet at costco for less than $100. And one pack wouldn't add that much weight.

2. What a great car! I bookmarked the page just to be able to look at the car and have a nice reference for what it looks like under the carpet.

3. The top shouldn't be stored that way when off because it crushes the rear seals. Can put in on its side but the other way with the front on the floor.



4. GREAT work to take the time for pics to help everyone!

 

So are you suggesting that the Dynamat be installed under the soundproofing product displayed in this thread? If so, what areas give the most bang for the buck? Wouldn't that add too much bulk underneath the carpet?

 

Nice work. I'm getting ready to do mine...by the way, GREAT LOOKING GARAGE!! I wish I had that lift.

 

Yes, the "Dynamat" or similar product goes under the light weight mat. It is a sheet of rubber type material (butyl rubber about 1/8 inch thick or so) that is very sticky and covered by a thick aluminum foil layer.

I would put it in the middle of the large panels like under the seats and where your feet go, on the side of the "trans tunnel" next to your legs, on the large panel behind the seats, on the interior tubs in the rear, on the floor of the back tub. No need to cover every single inch of the interior. Maybe some attention to the top of the tunnel for heat and sound reasons.

It takes probably 60 sq feet to cover the complete interior so with 30 sq feet you can get a good bit of it. And see a much better improvement over just the light weight mat which improves a different frequency of sound/vibration.


As far as bulk under the carpet, (1/8th inch thick or less and very stable/stays put) It would not be enough to notice.



NOW: if you want maximum sound proofing and a solid feel when closing the doors, etc do the whole job. (Costs weight and money) 100 sq feet of "Dynamat" product (Some are less expensive) take the interior back out, take your light weight mat back out and put the dynamat all through the car. Replace your light mat and then carpet, etc..

Pull off the door panels, put the dynamat on the outside door skin through the inside of the door, put dynamat on the inside panels of the doors. Get some Dynapad and put that over the dynamat under the door panels. Doors then have a nice solid feel to them and block much sound.

But yes the answer is some panel damping will go a long way to help the sound inside and be a nice compliment to the kits being sold. I'm surprised the vendors don't offer a package with some dynamat product and instructions of where to strategically put it. Could even have pre-cut pieces to stick down. "Crazy Cowboy Pro" ...

 

I did a C6 Z06 this weekend with both my material, and Dynamat Extreme for even more sound reduction. Talk about a dead interior.

 

Regarding the door panels, what happens if this material gets wet due to rain, wet windows, etc. going down into the door? I have a vision of wet foam with mold. Also, what is the difference between "Dynamat" and "Dynapad"?

 

Do you have any pics of both your product and the Dynamat Extreme material sandwiched together to get an idea of the end look/product?

 

Has anyone placed insulation outside the cabin on the underpanels and areas along or near the route of the exhaust (other than a tunnel plate and between the two wheel well liners)?

If so, what were the results?

 

I will upload the pics tomorrow, and post them for you.

 

The doors are done with dynamat (Again, can use similar product from diff manufacturer) that is a rubber type material with a thick aluminum backing. So it wouldn't be effected by water. It is a very sticky rubber and adheres to the panels. So it should stay put on the outside panel and not get in the way of the window mechanisms.

On the inside of the panel under the door panel itself is another layer of dynamat covered by dynapad. Dynapad is a closed cell foam about 1/4 inch thick with adhesive on it. The dynapad helps with any rattles and also improves soundproofing.

Then the door panel goes on top and clips in as usual. Can be tight but very solid door then.

I think the dynapad would be ok with water too being closed cell foam. And where it is placed it is not likely to get wet.

 

Yeah, this is true. I have the exact same coupe (same colors too) as "Patches". I recently installed a stealth subwoofer, but before I put the sub in, I covered most of the rear deck area with Dynamat Extreme. I used a double layer of the Extreme at the bottoms of all three storage compartments.

The difference in noise levels was dramatic. I especially noticed a substantial reduction in exhaust drone, which was VERY pronounced with my A4 trans and Magnaflow mufflers. I think the Magnaflows have a reputation for drone, but the Dynamat really helped tone it down.

Plus, I think that having the center compartment completely stuffed with a subwoofer box also reduced noise levels.

The only downside is - this all probably added 50 pounds of weight.

-

 

Thanks! Then where does the material the original poster (Patches) go in the doors? Over the dynapad?

The good news is since the material provided by Madvettes is already pre-cut, I could use those pieces as a template on any additional material. Simply trace and cut!

 

The kit the original poster did and other pre cut kits do not address the doors at all. No need to add that type of material to the doors either since the door panel fits tight to the dynamat and pad under it.

Also as an alternative to dynapad there is Ensolite I think it is called, thinner foam pad with adhesive back to help with under door rattles.

 

Do a search or look in the audio section too there are a couple nice installs with pics.

 

I just ordered the Dynomat Xtreme which came with nine pieces (18"x 32") from the auction site. I want to see some pictures where to place these pieces before I install the insulation kit I also bought from MadVette Motorsports.

 

Thanks. The OP did have pictures of the precuts on the door, however it was inside the door facing the interior panel, not the outside. This is my only area of concern since wet windows go up and down into the area.

I'm not crazy about adhesive backs in areas that might need future work and access to electrical wires, speaker wires, etc. I will probably stick with tape.

 

The kit I offer does have pre-cut pieces for the doors, and are made to go between the panel and the door. I suggest taping them as well, as it allows for easy access in the event of maintenance to the door, wiring, windows, etc. Also, the material I use is mold and mildew resistant, and helps to cut down on the road noise and rattles as well, due to the closed cell foam middle layer.

 

My mistake about the doors and the pre cut kits. Looks like they do have soundproofing for the doors. With adhesive backed things like dynamat you can easily avoid wires and any moving parts on the doors and get most of it covered.

 

I purchased the exact same package of Dynamat a few months ago. I looked at lots of installation pics, plus did some research. I covered about 80% of the back hatch area of my C5 coupe with the Dynamat Extreme. I found the material was very easy to work with. I prepped the surface well, by cleaning with a good degreaser. The Dynamat product sticks good, and it laid well. I used a small roller tool to really press it down.

The best tip I read was this - tap all around with your fingers. If you hear a dull thud, then it probably doesn't need to be covered. But if you hear a resonating ping or hollow sound, then cover that area.

Of course, if you're not concerned about weight and just want maximum noise reduction, then cover everything.