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On July 4th, I was driving in Austin TX, outside temp was over 100 and my car died & would not restart. Engine did not overheat AND the car had 3/4 of a tank of fuel. Starter worked, but not getting fire or fuel.
On July 4th, I was driving in Austin TX, outside temp was over 100 and my car died & would not restart. Engine did not overheat AND the car had 3/4 of a tank of fuel. Starter worked, but not getting fire or fuel.
Might be the fuel pump. If the car will turn over, hit the accelerator at the same time. This'll prove if the pumps are working. Then it may be something else.
might be the fuel pump. If the car will turn over, hit the accelerator at the same time. This'll prove if the pumps are working. Then it may be something else.
Tap the gas while turning the key to start the engine. If it starts, the fuel pumps are working.
Where are you getting this from? I think it is complete nonsense and just giving misleading and bad advice. Please prove me wrong and inform us where you got the notion that this is a correct diagnostic technique.
From: Admit Nothing, Deny Everything, Make Counter Accusations.
Originally Posted by briann510
Just be sure and remove the pressure needle from inside the rail end before hooking up the gauge first!
Rail gauges push in the pressure valve, like a tire pressure gauge does. There is no need to remove the needle valve. If you remove the needle valve you run the risk of fuel spray.
Rail gauges push in the pressure valve, like a tire pressure gauge does. There is no need to remove the needle valve. If you remove the needle valve you run the risk of fuel spray.
My mechanical fuel pressure gauge I hook up to quickly check fuel pressure vs my electric gauge in the car doesnt push in the needle as I use a long 2 foot AN hose with fittings to the gauge. It screws onto the outer (not inner) rail threads like a AN cap and inner needle must be taken out. It doesnt hardly spray anything when you relieve the pressure after cars has be sitting a while.
Even with my permanent mounted electric fuel gauge you must also take out the inner rail needle for it to work as the sender also only screws onto the outer threads and nothing there to press in the needle.
Last edited by briann510; Jul 7, 2009 at 12:41 AM.
My fuel pressure gauge I hook up to quickly check fuel pressure doesnt push in the needle as I use a long 2 foot AN hose with fittings to the gauge. It screws onto the outer (not inner) rail threads like a AN cap and inner needle must be taken out. It doesnt hardly spray anything when you relieve the pressure after cars has be sitting a while..
Well, if you had an actual fuel pressure test gauge like a mechanic and like was suggested to the OP, you wouldn't need to take the needle out.
Tap the gas while turning the key to start the engine. If it starts, the fuel pumps are working.
Are you talking about using WOT? It's not just a tap, you actually hold the throttle down all the way.
I forget what this does exactly but I have done this successfully to get my "other" car to start when having difficulties getting the motor to run on start-up.
From: Admit Nothing, Deny Everything, Make Counter Accusations.
Originally Posted by briann510
My mechanical fuel pressure gauge I hook up to quickly check fuel pressure vs my electric gauge in the car doesnt push in the needle as I use a long 2 foot AN hose with fittings to the gauge. It screws onto the outer (not inner) rail threads like a AN cap and inner needle must be taken out. It doesnt hardly spray anything when you relieve the pressure after cars has be sitting a while.
Even with my permanent mounted electric fuel gauge you must also take out the inner rail needle for it to work as the sender also only screws onto the outer threads and nothing there to press in the needle.
The typical FP gauges you find at the parts houses will push in the needle valve. Mine does:
From: Admit Nothing, Deny Everything, Make Counter Accusations.
Originally Posted by Blue Blood
Are you talking about using WOT? It's not just a tap, you actually hold the throttle down all the way.
I forget what this does exactly but I have done this successfully to get my "other" car to start when having difficulties getting the motor to run on start-up.
Where are you getting this from? I think it is complete nonsense and just giving misleading and bad advice. Please prove me wrong and inform us where you got the notion that this is a correct diagnostic technique.
Definitely nonsense. Comes from the old carb accelerator pump days. Does not apply to a FI engine.
One quick but not sure way to determine if it's a fuel pressure/pump issue is to remove the gas cap, put an ear next to the open spout, then have someone turn the key on. The fuel pump should run for 5 seconds or so when the key is turned on with the engine not running. Best way to check the fuel pump is to install a pressure gauge on the fuel rail.