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[Z06] Z06 engine died

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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 06:18 PM
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Default Z06 engine died

On July 4th, I was driving in Austin TX, outside temp was over 100 and my car died & would not restart. Engine did not overheat AND the car had 3/4 of a tank of fuel. Starter worked, but not getting fire or fuel.

Has this happened to others?
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 06:55 PM
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Your car may have busted a valve spring. Do a search on this
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rmatt118
On July 4th, I was driving in Austin TX, outside temp was over 100 and my car died & would not restart. Engine did not overheat AND the car had 3/4 of a tank of fuel. Starter worked, but not getting fire or fuel.

Has this happened to others?

All cars break at some point.

Pull the codes from the DIC and post them up.
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 09:59 PM
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Probably fuel pump
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
All cars break at some point.

Pull the codes from the DIC and post them up.
Might be the fuel pump. If the car will turn over, hit the accelerator at the same time. This'll prove if the pumps are working. Then it may be something else.
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by knyght4
might be the fuel pump. If the car will turn over, hit the accelerator at the same time. This'll prove if the pumps are working. Then it may be something else.
huh??
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by speedyhawk101
huh??
Tap the gas while turning the key to start the engine. If it starts, the fuel pumps are working.
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by knyght4
Tap the gas while turning the key to start the engine. If it starts, the fuel pumps are working.
Where are you getting this from? I think it is complete nonsense and just giving misleading and bad advice. Please prove me wrong and inform us where you got the notion that this is a correct diagnostic technique.
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 07:09 PM
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Install a pressure gauage in a fuel rail port. turn the key on. if you got pressure your pump is ok.
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 2K3Z06
Install a pressure gauage in a fuel rail port. turn the key on. if you got pressure your pump is ok.
Just be sure and remove the pressure needle from inside the rail end before hooking up the gauge first!
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 10:39 PM
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fuel injection doesn't need throttle tap to get gas, that is old school for carbs.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by briann510
Just be sure and remove the pressure needle from inside the rail end before hooking up the gauge first!
Rail gauges push in the pressure valve, like a tire pressure gauge does. There is no need to remove the needle valve. If you remove the needle valve you run the risk of fuel spray.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by rbartick
Rail gauges push in the pressure valve, like a tire pressure gauge does. There is no need to remove the needle valve. If you remove the needle valve you run the risk of fuel spray.
My mechanical fuel pressure gauge I hook up to quickly check fuel pressure vs my electric gauge in the car doesnt push in the needle as I use a long 2 foot AN hose with fittings to the gauge. It screws onto the outer (not inner) rail threads like a AN cap and inner needle must be taken out. It doesnt hardly spray anything when you relieve the pressure after cars has be sitting a while.

Even with my permanent mounted electric fuel gauge you must also take out the inner rail needle for it to work as the sender also only screws onto the outer threads and nothing there to press in the needle.

Last edited by briann510; Jul 7, 2009 at 12:41 AM.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by briann510
My fuel pressure gauge I hook up to quickly check fuel pressure doesnt push in the needle as I use a long 2 foot AN hose with fittings to the gauge. It screws onto the outer (not inner) rail threads like a AN cap and inner needle must be taken out. It doesnt hardly spray anything when you relieve the pressure after cars has be sitting a while..
Well, if you had an actual fuel pressure test gauge like a mechanic and like was suggested to the OP, you wouldn't need to take the needle out.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ptindall
Well, if you had an actual fuel pressure test gauge like a mechanic and like was suggested to the OP, you wouldn't need to take the needle out.
Yes you are correct in that case.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by knyght4
Tap the gas while turning the key to start the engine. If it starts, the fuel pumps are working.
Are you talking about using WOT? It's not just a tap, you actually hold the throttle down all the way.

I forget what this does exactly but I have done this successfully to get my "other" car to start when having difficulties getting the motor to run on start-up.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by briann510
My mechanical fuel pressure gauge I hook up to quickly check fuel pressure vs my electric gauge in the car doesnt push in the needle as I use a long 2 foot AN hose with fittings to the gauge. It screws onto the outer (not inner) rail threads like a AN cap and inner needle must be taken out. It doesnt hardly spray anything when you relieve the pressure after cars has be sitting a while.

Even with my permanent mounted electric fuel gauge you must also take out the inner rail needle for it to work as the sender also only screws onto the outer threads and nothing there to press in the needle.

The typical FP gauges you find at the parts houses will push in the needle valve. Mine does:
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Blue Blood
Are you talking about using WOT? It's not just a tap, you actually hold the throttle down all the way.

I forget what this does exactly but I have done this successfully to get my "other" car to start when having difficulties getting the motor to run on start-up.

Shuts off fuel flow to clear a flooded engine.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by rbartick
The typical FP gauges you find at the parts houses will push in the needle valve. Mine does:
Jeep 4.0?
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ptindall
Where are you getting this from? I think it is complete nonsense and just giving misleading and bad advice. Please prove me wrong and inform us where you got the notion that this is a correct diagnostic technique.
Definitely nonsense. Comes from the old carb accelerator pump days. Does not apply to a FI engine.

One quick but not sure way to determine if it's a fuel pressure/pump issue is to remove the gas cap, put an ear next to the open spout, then have someone turn the key on. The fuel pump should run for 5 seconds or so when the key is turned on with the engine not running. Best way to check the fuel pump is to install a pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
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