[Z06] Clutch/shifting problem
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 31
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Clutch/shifting problem
I did a search but could not find a thread with the exact problem im having. I have a stock 2001 z06, wont shift into any gear unless car is off. If i turn it on with it in first gear it rolls forward very slowly even though the clutch is depressed fully. Is this a master cylinder problem? clutch fluid change needed? thanks
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,649
Likes: 31
From: Central Florida
I did a search but could not find a thread with the exact problem im having. I have a stock 2001 z06, wont shift into any gear unless car is off. If i turn it on with it in first gear it rolls forward very slowly even though the clutch is depressed fully. Is this a master cylinder problem? clutch fluid change needed? thanks
How many miles on the car?
Has the clutch fluid ever been changed?
Ranger
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Ranger:
I have owned the car for two months, I rear your clutch fluid change thread and did this a week after i purchased the car. Yesterday this problem happened again. I did the change again this morning but this time changed it, drove around, and repeated this about 5 times. Clutch is working beautifully now. I think im going to buy a few more bottles of fluid and repeat this clutch fluid change everyday for the next week as I don't think it has been done by the previous owner, so probably alot of clutch dust going to keep coming out. Thanks alot for your thread!
I have owned the car for two months, I rear your clutch fluid change thread and did this a week after i purchased the car. Yesterday this problem happened again. I did the change again this morning but this time changed it, drove around, and repeated this about 5 times. Clutch is working beautifully now. I think im going to buy a few more bottles of fluid and repeat this clutch fluid change everyday for the next week as I don't think it has been done by the previous owner, so probably alot of clutch dust going to keep coming out. Thanks alot for your thread!
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 119
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Im going to check this out tommarrow myself I seem to have an issue going into reverse . Of course it usually happens when im making a 3 point turn on streets that aren't normally busy until I try the reverse shift that is .
Now to move on to solving the loud noises it makes when I turn it off without holding the clutch in......
new owner 04 c5 z06
Now to move on to solving the loud noises it makes when I turn it off without holding the clutch in......
new owner 04 c5 z06
Last edited by ccann26; Aug 4, 2009 at 11:59 PM. Reason: miss
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 10,649
Likes: 31
From: Central Florida
Glad the protocol is getting your clutch headed in the right direction.
Second 2001 in two days with identical symptoms remedied with this simple DIY fix.
Be sure you're using DOT4 brake fluid. GM-brand and Prestone have worked well for me. Avoid Valvoline in the clutch.
Suggest changing the content of the reservoir daily at both ends of your commute, if it's a DD. Just swap the fluid and go. No need for separate pedal pumps. The commute will serve to agitate the fluid throughout the hydraulics and help scour the crud accumulated by the previous owner.
Continue that until at the end of the drive, the fluid is still very clear and without any cloudiness.
If you get to that point and the clutch pedal is normal through a set of high-rpm shifts, then you have verified that the seals in your hydraulics are OK. Going forward from there, periodic swaps when you detect a color change will keep your clutch operating normally.
If another issue develops, please post the symptoms to this thread.
Ranger
Second 2001 in two days with identical symptoms remedied with this simple DIY fix.
Be sure you're using DOT4 brake fluid. GM-brand and Prestone have worked well for me. Avoid Valvoline in the clutch.
Suggest changing the content of the reservoir daily at both ends of your commute, if it's a DD. Just swap the fluid and go. No need for separate pedal pumps. The commute will serve to agitate the fluid throughout the hydraulics and help scour the crud accumulated by the previous owner.
Continue that until at the end of the drive, the fluid is still very clear and without any cloudiness.
If you get to that point and the clutch pedal is normal through a set of high-rpm shifts, then you have verified that the seals in your hydraulics are OK. Going forward from there, periodic swaps when you detect a color change will keep your clutch operating normally.
If another issue develops, please post the symptoms to this thread.
Ranger
Last edited by Ranger; Aug 5, 2009 at 07:41 AM.
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Instructor
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 196
Likes: 10
From: PA
Ranger I am having this same problem, I have already posted about this before and have gone through many steps. 1st i was doing the protocol before the problem happened. 2nd i bled the slave cylinder which seemed to fix the problem, but after about 100 miles the problem came back. Then i was recommended to replace the master, which i did with an oem unit. Worked great and everything seemed fine and dandy till about 500 miles later and i felt the clutch dissengagment slowly going away, until it was right back where the problem started. Won't go into gear at all unless perfectly rev matched and creeps forward heavily when clutch is fully depressed. Getting it into reverse just about kills me.
My only guess is a leak somewhere that is letting air in, but idk how to diagnose where it can be coming from. Any further help is appreciated.
My only guess is a leak somewhere that is letting air in, but idk how to diagnose where it can be coming from. Any further help is appreciated.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,799
Likes: 1
From: Northern Virginia
St. Jude Donor '08
I did a search but could not find a thread with the exact problem im having. I have a stock 2001 z06, wont shift into any gear unless car is off. If i turn it on with it in first gear it rolls forward very slowly even though the clutch is depressed fully. Is this a master cylinder problem? clutch fluid change needed? thanks
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 196
Likes: 10
From: PA
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 196
Likes: 10
From: PA
Ranger I am having this same problem, I have already posted about this before and have gone through many steps. 1st i was doing the protocol before the problem happened. 2nd i bled the slave cylinder which seemed to fix the problem, but after about 100 miles the problem came back. Then i was recommended to replace the master, which i did with an oem unit. Worked great and everything seemed fine and dandy till about 500 miles later and i felt the clutch dissengagment slowly going away, until it was right back where the problem started. Won't go into gear at all unless perfectly rev matched and creeps forward heavily when clutch is fully depressed. Getting it into reverse just about kills me.
My only guess is a leak somewhere that is letting air in, but idk how to diagnose where it can be coming from. Any further help is appreciated.
My only guess is a leak somewhere that is letting air in, but idk how to diagnose where it can be coming from. Any further help is appreciated.
