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[Z06] Please help replace brake fluid 2003 zo6

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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 05:18 PM
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Default Please help replace brake fluid 2003 zo6

I have a 2003 zo6 that will soon be due for a total brake fluid flush,refill, and bleeding.

Would someone who has done this, please tell me in a step by step instruction, what it will involve,what tools and equipment i will need to buy, and what brake fluid would be the best to use.

Thanks so much for the help in advance. I have installed a full coil over suspension from PFADT RACING, and replaced the entire exhaust system with BORLA and CORSA ,and am not afraid to leave the comfort zone or to get dirty if you know what i mean.


LIFE IS SHORT EAT, SLEEP, AND BREATH, CORVETTES WHILE YOU CAN

yellow lpe zo6
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 05:56 PM
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call summitt racing and order a set of speed bleeders easy as 123 and you can change the fluid and bleed any time you want with no hassle
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 01:20 PM
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I got a set of speed bleeders from LG Motorsports for $29.95
I can do it myself with the bleeders
http://www.lgmotorsports.com/catalog...oducts_id=1755

I also got a set of SS brake lines 4x for $178:
http://www.lgmotorsports.com/catalog...oducts_id=1610

I picked up 3x containers of "MOTUL RBF 600" brake fluid.

I am planning to partially drain my brake reservoir, fill with Motul, and pump my brake pedal until the new fluid comes out of each brake rotor, then tighten the bleeder.

I plan to do this work after I install my new LG GT2 Coil overs first this weekend.

Toque
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 02:46 PM
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I used a syringe to take out as much old fluid as I could and started bleeding from there.
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 04:48 PM
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Suck all the old fluid out fill with fresh, open the bleeder starting at the RR LR RF then LF and vacuum the fluid out with a mityvac, or have someone help by pumping the pedal do this until it comes out clear, keep an eye on your reservoir, repeat for the other 3 wheels.

After a week or so of driving pull the fluid out again then just refill. Easiest way to get the most our of the system as there is always some left in the ABS motor.
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 05:06 PM
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The correct bleed sequence for a 2003 is. . . .

RR LF LR RF
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 05:40 PM
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I use Motul 600, but you said you wanted the "BEST" brake fluid....that would be Castrol SRF! You probably won't have to bleed but once per year with SRF.
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 06:06 PM
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From: Wylie TX --> Less is More, except under the hood !
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Originally Posted by Last C5
The correct bleed sequence for a 2003 is. . . .

RR LF LR RF
Your correct... something changed in the braking systems so the later models are as he said above.
RR -> LF -> LR -> RF
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 06:34 PM
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I use a tool like this one but mine is the Mighty Vac brand. I use it to empty the master cylinder and refill it with fresh fluid first, then use it bleed each caliper until I get fresh clean fluid.
I do it after every track event or once a year at the minimum if you dont run road course events.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92474
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 04:54 AM
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Wow, I've never heard of any car not going from farthest from master cylinder to closest. Learn somthin' every day.

Originally Posted by Last C5
The correct bleed sequence for a 2003 is. . . .

RR LF LR RF
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by machone03
Wow, I've never heard of any car not going from farthest from master cylinder to closest. Learn somthin' every day.
The 97 through 2000 models were just as you would expect ....
RR LR RF LF

Then in 2001 Chevrolet made a change in the Corvette brake line routing and the bleed sequence changed to ....
RR LF LR RF

I assume it made some improvement in the braking system, but I sometimes wonder if they did it just so we wouldn't get complacent about our mechanical abilities.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 02:13 AM
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I use the Mityvac 6830 Brake Bleeder, it has multiple attachments for different vehicles. Vacuum the fluid out of the master cylinder and replace it with clean fluid. Attach the Mity vac to the bleeder at each caliper open the throttle valve on the Mity vac and wait until you get clear fluid. The Mity vac is attached to your compressor which creates a venturi effect creates a vacuum that draws the fluid through the brake line. You have to check the master cylinder periodically to keep in full. The Mity vac works great it takes me about 45 minutes to flush the entire system on my 03 Z06.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 08:30 AM
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I found it made no difference in the order of bleeding the lines and calipers.

I do RR, LR, RF, LF on any car.

Suck out the MC of old fluid with a 50 CC syringe.

Full with new brake fluid

Use a Motive power bleeder. pump to 18-22 psi

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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Toque
I got a set of speed bleeders from LG Motorsports for $29.95
I can do it myself with the bleeders
http://www.lgmotorsports.com/catalog...oducts_id=1755

I also got a set of SS brake lines 4x for $178:
http://www.lgmotorsports.com/catalog...oducts_id=1610
Thank you for posting those links!

I see that the bleeders are sold as a pair. That means I would end up spending $60 for all 4 calipers?

Anyone here use http://www.speedbleeder.com/ before? I've seen them talked about a lot on many car forums.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Edmond
Thank you for posting those links!

I see that the bleeders are sold as a pair. That means I would end up spending $60 for all 4 calipers?
Yes i guess your right. My wife got mine for me for xmas... i did not see they were sold in pairs. Sorry...

Toque
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Edmond
Thank you for posting those links!

I see that the bleeders are sold as a pair. That means I would end up spending $60 for all 4 calipers?

Anyone here use http://www.speedbleeder.com/ before? I've seen them talked about a lot on many car forums.
First - choose brake fluid based on your use. Racing brake fluid like SRF or RBF 600 is pretty much a waste of $$ if you are street driving only. ATE gold or Super Blue at half or less the price is more than sufficient. Even a good parts store fluid is OK. The key is to flush/bleed if the fluid is old.

Second - I have used the speedbleeders - (and sold them) - but I'm not all that thrilled. I had to send a lot of replacements out from them getting easily broken when being torqued. Maybe my customers were ham fisted - dunno

I prefer to 'suck' rather than 'blow' - and generally use my buddies shop vacuum bleeder. At the track however - I don't need a bleeder. If you arrange your hose/bottle such that a column of fluid is above the bleeder nipple - you can slowly/carefully bleed your self.

I like to set it up - then push the pedal about halfway down - then pump it like 1 inch to slowly bleed through. I think this keeps the MC in a good position and slow actuation stops and foaming/bubbleing.

Last -

You need 1 bleeder per caliper - so you'll need four all day.
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Last C5
The 97 through 2000 models were just as you would expect ....
RR LR RF LF

Then in 2001 Chevrolet made a change in the Corvette brake line routing and the bleed sequence changed to ....
RR LF LR RF

I assume it made some improvement in the braking system, but I sometimes wonder if they did it just so we wouldn't get complacent about our mechanical abilities.
They changed the brake system to a dual diagonal system in 2001. That means the left front and right rear brakes are connected together and the right front and left rear are connected together. Before that the rears were together and the fronts were together. The Dual diagonal gives you at least one front brake if something happens to a brake line.

So you are still following the principal of bleeding the furthest location first by following the RR, LF, LR, RF sequence.

For the initial bleed at the beginning of the track season I suck all of the fluid out of the master reservoir and refill it. Then I bleed the first two wheels and refill and then follow by bleeding the last two. Then I refill and go back and bleed the first two again to make sure I got all of the old fluid out of everyplace except the BPMV. If I have new brake pads I fill to the top line. If I don't have new brake pads I fill to the point the old fluid was on the master reservoir. That way if I need to push the caliper pistons in while I am doing track maintenance I don't have to worry about taking fluid out of the master reservoir before pushing them back.

Bill
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL

Use a Motive power bleeder. pump to 18-22 psi

This is the way to go. It just does not get any easier. Plus with ONE Motive power bleeder I can do all 4 of my cars without spending a dime extra.
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Toque
I got a set of speed bleeders from LG Motorsports for $29.95
I can do it myself with the bleeders
http://www.lgmotorsports.com/catalog...oducts_id=1755

I also got a set of SS brake lines 4x for $178:
http://www.lgmotorsports.com/catalog...oducts_id=1610

I picked up 3x containers of "MOTUL RBF 600" brake fluid.

I am planning to partially drain my brake reservoir, fill with Motul, and pump my brake pedal until the new fluid comes out of each brake rotor, then tighten the bleeder.

I plan to do this work after I install my new LG GT2 Coil overs first this weekend.

Toque
Make sure to take some pics and put them up on your site. I've been looking at coil overs. Good luck with the install!
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by matt75
Make sure to take some pics and put them up on your site. I've been looking at coil overs. Good luck with the install!
Thanks Matt...
I got my SS brake lines/speed bleeders on this weekend, and also flushed new fluid thru the lines. I will have a few pics with procedure on my web site in a few weeks. I'm working on my LG Coil over install right now. I got them on, but trying to adjust my ride height back into the weeds like it was before. I plan to have a full write up about the coil over install also in a few weeks.

Toque
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