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I agree. I think these are among the best built filters out there. I regularly use them. I think the Nay sayers should try cutting this one apart and see what's inside. Good luck in trying to open the can........
I also use NAPA Gold every once in a while.
Last edited by Cybermind; Apr 12, 2010 at 06:05 AM.
Wow, I'm surprised I'm the only one recommending Purolator. They're a very good filter, kinda spendy but oh well. I don't put enough miles on mine between oil changes to really matter, I suppose.
I like Purolator filters as well, in fact I've got one on my wife's car! (I bought the Quaker State version, but it is in fact made by Purolator to identical specs to their Purolator Classic filter)
I can say this.... I have done my LAST oil change on my Vette.... Way to much trouble and really not worth doing it myself anymore. The price of the oil now is not saving me anything by doing it myself.
And by the way... I use AC Delco PF46 oil filters.
Last edited by Sinister-one; Apr 12, 2010 at 11:22 AM.
I can say this.... I have done my LAST oil change on my Vette.... Way to much trouble and really not worth doing it myself anymore. The price of the oil now is not saving me anything by doing it myself.
Have you priced out what dealers charge for a synthetic oil change? You'll definitely save money doing it yourself.
I don't know why you say it's too much trouble, the C5 is one of the easiest cars out there to change the oil on. Drive it up on Rhino Ramps, crawl under and the drain plug is very accessible, and so is the oil filter. I've done oil changes on many cars where the oil filter is completely buried and you can't get to it without burning yourself on a hot exhaust manifold for example (my mom's 81 Datsun 280ZX and 88 Nissan 300ZX were brutal for this!!)
Have you priced out what dealers charge for a synthetic oil change? You'll definitely save money doing it yourself.
I don't know why you say it's too much trouble, the C5 is one of the easiest cars out there to change the oil on. Drive it up on Rhino Ramps, crawl under and the drain plug is very accessible, and so is the oil filter. I've done oil changes on many cars where the oil filter is completely buried and you can't get to it without burning yourself on a hot exhaust manifold for example (my mom's 81 Datsun 280ZX and 88 Nissan 300ZX were brutal for this!!)
Not quite.... the drain plug is at the FRONT of the oil pan. So I ALSO have to lift the car from the rear. Hence, it's just not as simple as driving it up on ramps, which i have.
Jiffy Lube charges about $55 bucks for synthetic oil change.
Have you priced out what dealers charge for a synthetic oil change? You'll definitely save money doing it yourself.
I don't know why you say it's too much trouble, the C5 is one of the easiest cars out there to change the oil on. Drive it up on Rhino Ramps, crawl under and the drain plug is very accessible, and so is the oil filter.
What kind of C5 do you have where u drive the car up a ramp and drain the oil with just the nose up?
Jiffy Lube charges about $55 bucks for synthetic oil change.
Please tell me that you aren't thinking of bringing your vette to Jiffy Lube for oil changes! Come on dude, you can't be serious? How can you stand to have some untrained kid change the oil in your pride and joy?
After learning the hard way, I wouldn't even take my lawnmower to Jiffy lube for an oil change.
PS: Don't forget that "synthetic oil" is a very general term which does not mean much anymore.
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Originally Posted by Patman
Have you priced out what dealers charge for a synthetic oil change? You'll definitely save money doing it yourself.
I don't know why you say it's too much trouble, the C5 is one of the easiest cars out there to change the oil on. Drive it up on Rhino Ramps, crawl under and the drain plug is very accessible, and so is the oil filter. I've done oil changes on many cars where the oil filter is completely buried and you can't get to it without burning yourself on a hot exhaust manifold for example (my mom's 81 Datsun 280ZX and 88 Nissan 300ZX were brutal for this!!)
I must be doing my oil change wrong, I thought seeing that the drain plug is in the front of the pan you had to have the rear higher than the front.. When my front is on ramps the back is way lower than the front so I always have to jack up the rear where it is higher than the front. Tell me how you can just drive up on ramps and change your oil, I must be missing something here.
I vote Walmart Super tech filters. I use them on every vehicle I own and I never had a problem. I even ran them on my Yamaha R1.
It's not how much something costs, it's how well it works.for example, I love the motorcycle guys who swear by $15/qt. oil. The people in the know all use Rotella synthetic, which is about $15/gallon.
I like Purolator filters as well, in fact I've got one on my wife's car! (I bought the Quaker State version, but it is in fact made by Purolator to identical specs to their Purolator Classic filter)
We sell Quaker State filters at the autoparts store I work at. They are made by Fram. The Fram filter for a Ford has always been a PH8A, the Quaker State part number is QS8A. The Frams and Quaker States all come in the same shipment and the cases all say Made in China.
Our own service department won't use them because they leak - they get theirs in from the local NAPA.
I only use K&N or Purolator Pure One. I use the K&N 6002HP 2 quart tall filters on my 1 ton and my 55 Chevy 4X4. They hold 150% more oil than the short filter and have 150% more filter media.
Please tell me that you aren't thinking of bringing your vette to Jiffy Lube for oil changes! Come on dude, you can't be serious? How can you stand to have some untrained kid change the oil in your pride and joy?
After learning the hard way, I wouldn't even take my lawnmower to Jiffy lube for an oil change.
PS: Don't forget that "synthetic oil" is a very general term which does not mean much anymore.
Yes I do. I'll bring my own oil and have them do all the work.
I take my wifes Tahoe and my daughters Jeep there and I have yet to see any "kids" working there. All the guys that work there are at least 25 y/o.
I must be doing my oil change wrong, I thought seeing that the drain plug is in the front of the pan you had to have the rear higher than the front.. When my front is on ramps the back is way lower than the front so I always have to jack up the rear where it is higher than the front. Tell me how you can just drive up on ramps and change your oil, I must be missing something here.
With my front end on Rhino ramps and my back end on the ground I'm leaving behind a few ounces of oil but it's not much more than that. I remember reading a thread on here in the past where someone drained their oil like I do, and then jacked up the back to see how much more oil came out and it really wasn't much more than a few ounces.
I honestly think people worry way too much about trying to get every last drop of old oil out, especially since those same people are changing their oil at 3000 miles and that oil is still practically brand new anyhow. Plus no matter how you drain your oil, there will always be close to a half quart that's left in the engine in all the oil passages and trapped in the valvetrain, etc.
I've been doing it this way since I bought the car (in 2004) and have had an oil analysis done on every single oil change and the results always come back looking good.
We sell Quaker State filters at the autoparts store I work at. They are made by Fram. The Fram filter for a Ford has always been a PH8A, the Quaker State part number is QS8A.
This is no longer true, Fram stopped making the Quaker State oil filters a few years ago, they are definitely made by Purolator now. They kept the old numbering system as it was, which is why it's still similar to the Fram part numbers.
If you compare a Quaker State filter and a Purolator filter and a Fram filter you will see that the Fram is nothing like the other two.
I dont think you are leaving a few ounces behind, maybe 1/2 a quart.
Originally Posted by Patman
With my front end on Rhino ramps and my back end on the ground I'm leaving behind a few ounces of oil but it's not much more than that. I remember reading a thread on here in the past where someone drained their oil like I do, and then jacked up the back to see how much more oil came out and it really wasn't much more than a few ounces.
I honestly think people worry way too much about trying to get every last drop of old oil out, especially since those same people are changing their oil at 3000 miles and that oil is still practically brand new anyhow. Plus no matter how you drain your oil, there will always be close to a half quart that's left in the engine in all the oil passages and trapped in the valvetrain, etc.
I've been doing it this way since I bought the car (in 2004) and have had an oil analysis done on every single oil change and the results always come back looking good.
I can say this.... I have done my LAST oil change on my Vette.... Way to much trouble and really not worth doing it myself anymore. The price of the oil now is not saving me anything by doing it myself.
And by the way... I use AC Delco PF46 oil filters.
I buy 7 quarts of Mobil-1 at wally's place, and go to my trusted GM Dealership, 30 minutes later the 'Covette Only' tech has gone over the Vette looking of any pending problems and did a State inspection and oil change. Price for the oil change $23.00 that includes $7.70 for a PH-46 AC Delco oil filter. Can't beat that price, and I'm feeling great that the people who know her the best did the work.
Hi, I'm getting ready to do my 1st oil change,(01 vert 70000miles) and trying to choose a good oil filter. Which one would you recommend?
Thank you
70,000 miles and your first oil change? Holy SH**
Pulling the drain plug is going to look like the commercial where the sludge buries the car. Better wear a rain coat.
I dont think you are leaving a few ounces behind, maybe 1/2 a quart.
Let's just say it really is a 1/2 a quart, plus another 1/2 a quart in the rest of the engine, that still doesn't bother me since I have been getting my used oil analyzed after each oil change and I've never seen any problems with the condition of the oil. Even when my oil has 7k on it the condition is suitable for continued use, so that small percentage of old oil I'm leaving behind is still ok, and the 7 quarts of fresh oil I'm adding at oil change time is mixing up with it and giving my engine all the protection it needs. It's got 114k on it and runs like new, I'm honestly not going to worry about a little bit of oil left in there at oil change time (especially considering the hassle that it is to raise the back end higher than the front)
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