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Let's just say it really is a 1/2 a quart, plus another 1/2 a quart in the rest of the engine, that still doesn't bother me since I have been getting my used oil analyzed after each oil change and I've never seen any problems with the condition of the oil. Even when my oil has 7k on it the condition is suitable for continued use, so that small percentage of old oil I'm leaving behind is still ok, and the 7 quarts of fresh oil I'm adding at oil change time is mixing up with it and giving my engine all the protection it needs. It's got 114k on it and runs like new, I'm honestly not going to worry about a little bit of oil left in there at oil change time (especially considering the hassle that it is to raise the back end higher than the front)
I get mine done at Wearcheck in Canada, although they do have a lab in the US also. Most people in the US use Blackstone Labs though. I believe they charge around $20 for each analysis.
hey pat, did you do an analysis on the schaefer oil you were using on your wife's car?
I recently switched her car over to Toyota's 0w20 synthetic and when I drained out the Schaeffer oil I decided not to bother taking a sample so I could save more kits for my own car.
I recently switched her car over to Toyota's 0w20 synthetic and when I drained out the Schaeffer oil I decided not to bother taking a sample so I could save more kits for my own car.
damn, i was looking foreward to it. im thinking of switching over my car to thier 9000 synthetic. are they the only ones that have molley suspended in the oil? do you think i should just stick with the amsoil 0-30 sig ive been running?
damn, i was looking foreward to it. im thinking of switching over my car to thier 9000 synthetic. are they the only ones that have molley suspended in the oil? do you think i should just stick with the amsoil 0-30 sig ive been running?
Amsoil 0w30 is a very good oil, I'd keep running that if I were you.
Schaeffer is definitely not the only ones using moly in their oils, in fact that Toyota 0w20 that I just put in my wife's car uses a lot of moly (about 800-1000 ppm, vs 150 or so for Schaeffer oil) Redline also uses a lot of moly too.
I dont think you are leaving a few ounces behind, maybe 1/2 a quart.
As I suspected, it really is only a few ounces left behind, 4 in fact.
Just today this question was posted on bobistheoilguy.com and you'll note the amount of oil that came out once he raised the back:
Switched from Mobil 1 to Castrol Edge in my 1998 Corvette (seeing if I will get reduced lead readings), just changed oil (drained the Edge). I didn't take an oil sample when I should (halfway into drain). I was checking oil level in transmission and adding some oil when I remembered to sample oil, all oil was drained. I then raised rear and drained out last 4 ounces. This last 4 ounces could contain more metal, we will see. If I show a lot of lead, it may not be conclusive due to sampling.
Opinions? Did I waste my money submitting this oil sample?
So for those of you that are raising the rear thinking you're getting a lot more oil out, you're not. It's really not worth the hassle just for 4 more measly ounces of oil.
Yeah 4 oz of dirty contaminated oil.... Still that is like 1/8 of a quart of oil.
Also the contaminants always settle at the bottom, your bottom is at the lowest point and that is 4 oz of sediments and contamination. If you never drain this part every time do you an oil change when you jack it up all the heaviest sediments will be in the 4 oz of oil you save in your oil pan.
It is your car, do what you wish.
I was always told to drain the oil, not leave some in every oil change.
From: Reno is so close to Hell you can see Sparks , State Of Confusion
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
Originally Posted by nextime
Yeah 4 oz of dirty contaminated oil.... Still that is like 1/8 of a quart of oil.
Also the contaminants always settle at the bottom, your bottom is at the lowest point and that is 4 oz of sediments and contamination. If you never drain this part every time do you an oil change when you jack it up all the heaviest sediments will be in the 4 oz of oil you save in your oil pan.
It is your car, do what you wish.
I was always told to drain the oil, not leave some in every oil change.
We have a winner here, I agree 100%, All that garbage is left in the bottom of the pan by not jacking up the rear.
Mobil 1
M1-301
Like the Champ filter, this filter is made by Champion Labs. However, it uses a unique end plate and a thicker can that make it the strongest filter available for wide distribution retail sale. It also uses a synthetic media, which inproves filtration and flow. I'm happy to say that this filter is NOT a fake. It is definitely a unique design.
It uses a synthetic fiber element that can filter out very small particles and is very strong. It is rated just under the Purolator Pure One as far as filtering capability, but is still very much above conventional paper filters. It also has a very strong construction to withstand high pressure spikes during start-up. However, as with all Mobil 1 products, expect to pay 2 - 3 times as much for this filter.
70,000 miles and your first oil change? Holy SH**
Pulling the drain plug is going to look like the commercial where the sludge buries the car. Better wear a rain coat.
Uh, I think he bought his C5, used and this'll be HIS first oil change.
Speaking of oil and filters, I may have mentioned this before but my brother-in-law used any old oil and filters in his Toyota van for more than 300,000 miles. Not once did his vehicle have any oil-related problems. In fact his van was still passing the CA required smog test every two years.
I bring this up because some people get a bit carried away when it comes to oil. There's a guy who posts in the tech section who had a 300,000 mile C5. As far as I know, he used Mobil 1 oil for most, if not all of its life.
Do we really need our engines to last longer than 300,000 miles? I think not. .....2 cents deposited.....
Uh, I think he bought his C5, used and this'll be HIS first oil change.
Speaking of oil and filters, I may have mentioned this before but my brother-in-law used any old oil and filters in his Toyota van for more than 300,000 miles. Not once did his vehicle have any oil-related problems. In fact his van was still passing the CA required smog test every two years.
I bring this up because some people get a bit carried away when it comes to oil. There's a guy who posts in the tech section who had a 300,000 mile C5. As far as I know, he used Mobil 1 oil for most, if not all of its life.
Do we really need our engines to last longer than 300,000 miles? I think not. .....2 cents deposited.....
I use Mobil-1 synthetic and at my age, I'm sure the Corvette will still be running around long after I'm gone. People get in such a huff over motor oil, while there are a lot of folks here who have spung the odometer well past the 200K mark running whatever synthetic oil they find to use ! GM thought Mobil-1 synthetic was good enough, why would I think I'm a better engineer than they are. It needs to pass GM4718M, if so it's fine. But this subject is,
I was always told to drain the oil, not leave some in every oil change.
Like I said though, you'll never get 100% of it out anyways.
I honestly don't think that draining out that last 4 ounces of oil is going to extend the life of your engine one single bit. I'll prove it as the years go on and I continue to pile the miles on my daily driven C5.
We have a winner here, I agree 100%, All that garbage is left in the bottom of the pan by not jacking up the rear.
Actually, any "garbage" that might make it's way into your oil is going to be trapped by your oil filter anyhow. It's not like that last 4 ounces of oil is going to contain bits of sand or any large wear metal particles that would do any harm. Seriously guys, you're going to a lot of work for nothing. Raising the rear is just a hassle that isn't needed at oil change time (and in some cases could be quite dangerous depending on how you're doing it)
1st any oil that meets spec will do, pretty much same for filters, however, I only use mobil 1 in ZO6, why ... why not I guess. My driver is a 83 dual over-head cams 6cyl toyota supra that I drive EXTREMELY hard and always have..original motor, never any work except t-belts and have 376,000 miles on it and even used fram filters in the first 100k miles and quaker state regular dino oil, now use whatever is cheapest and delco, wix, purolator filters(cheapest price I find dictates). So to summarize, just use oil/filter of YOUR choice that meets specs and you will be ok, my 2cents of course
No it doesnt. Next time you drain you oil do it on a level surface and watch the first and last bit of oil color that comes out, you can see junk in it (darker color).
Oil filters trap the light particles, the heavy particles hang out in the oil pan, like metal shavings.
Originally Posted by Patman
Actually, any "garbage" that might make it's way into your oil is going to be trapped by your oil filter anyhow. It's not like that last 4 ounces of oil is going to contain bits of sand or any large wear metal particles that would do any harm. Seriously guys, you're going to a lot of work for nothing. Raising the rear is just a hassle that isn't needed at oil change time (and in some cases could be quite dangerous depending on how you're doing it)
No it doesnt. Next time you drain you oil do it on a level surface and watch the first and last bit of oil color that comes out, you can see junk in it (darker color).
Oil filters trap the light particles, the heavy particles hang out in the oil pan, like metal shavings.
Think about what you're saying because it doesn't even make sense. You're trying to tell me that the larger heavy particles can magically make their way through the same filtering media where the smaller particles get trapped? How is that even physically possible?
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