Mine's a '02 Z Canadian car, has no "off" option on the DIC, pulling #44 relay did not affect any other features/options/trouble codes etc. other than no more auto headlamp popping up.

 

Pulled the 44 relay on my US spec car with TS and works perfectly, lights and foglights turn on but not the headlights! Thanks RonJ!

 

Just out of curiosity, why would you have to pull #44 on a US spec car when you can program it "off" on your DIC? no such option on a Canadian car.

 

There seems to be a bit of confusion over the different options so hopefully this will help the newer members.

Twilight Sentinel gives automatic headlights controlled by an ambient light sensor. On US and export cars it can be selected/deselected through the DIC. On Canadian cars it's not possible to turn it off through the DIC. Many don't like the headlights popping up and down so often, given the issues with headlight gears, and choose to turn it off.

Approach lights is the function which turns on the lights as you hit the unlock on the fob. DRLs are the front ambers which illuminate as driving lights when the ignition is on and the parking brake is off. DRLs are also controlled by the light sesor.

Some members pull the A2 fuse to inhibit the DRLs which means that the DRLs don't light up but you lose the approach lights function. You can do the full relay mod to inhibit DRLs but retain approach lights.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...e-the-drl.html

The issue here is that because TS cannot be deselected through the DIC on a Canadian car so you would need to inhibit it some other way. I wasn't aware that micro relay 44 would work.

HTH

 

QuicksilverC5 posted this option where he modified the ambient light sensor.

Disable the Twilight Sentinel on Canadian Model C5's

It turned out to be VERY easy to do. The only minor difficulties I encountered were:

a) due to the limited distance I could pull the sensor and its lead from the wiring harness out to facilitate working on it (about 4"), and

b) the fact that one has to work in fairly close quarters down low at the base of the windshield. To make this easier, I moved the seat(s) as far forward as possible when actually doing the work.

Following information obtained on the forum, I did it as follows:

1. I used a CREDIT CARD to 'work'/loosen and 'pop out' the dash top defroster grill.

2. The Twilight Sentinel (TS) sensor itself comes in a base/housing that plugs into a female socket on the left hand underside of the defroster grill. It simply screws into its defroster grill socket, requiring only a 1/4 clockwise turn to 'lock' it into place like (eg.) a tail light bulb into its socket.

3. Before I did ANYTHING (even unscrewed the sensor from the grill), I tied some *black* fishing line (about 4 feet worth) around the ACTUAL WIRE connecting the sensor to the harness, ***JUST IN CASE the whole thing should accidentally slip down into the dash during the process***, so I could pull it up again... (THAT WOULD BE A PAIN - the head lights would then ALWAYS be on when the car was running, and trying to fish it out again looked like it would NOT be easy...).

4. I THEN unscrewed the sensor from the defroster grill.

5. THEN, the sensor itself simply plugs into a male connector on the end of the wiring harness lead, so I unplugged the sensor from its harness connector. (I used a small jeweller's screwdriver to release a clip to allow the parts to be separated).

6. I then reinstalled the (now disconnected) sensor back into the defroster grill (for 'looks' only, since it's now non-functional).

7. Next, I bent the leads on a 4.7K OHM ½ Watt resistor that I picked up today (6-pak for $1.49; needed only one), and plugged the resistor leads into the contacts on the end of the male wiring harness connector. (Real nice fit - tight but not too tight).

8. I then taped the resistor/connector up to prevent shorts and provide further insurance against them coming apart, using black electrical tape.

9. I then taped the connector to the sensor housing, the objective being to help ensure that it wouldn't flop around/rattle/make noise if simply left loose.

10. I then looped and tied the fishing line through a couple of bars in the defroster grill, leaving only about 4" of slack to its tie point back on the wiring harness, and cut off the surplus line with scissors - JUST IN CASE THE ELECTRICAL TAPE SHOULD EVER SOFTEN/COME LOOSE FROM HEAT IN THE CAR and the resistor/lead might decide to separate from the sensor and drop down into the dash as mentioned above and cause noise/be difficult to retrieve.

11. I then reinstalled the defroster grill and 'voila'.

Base upon admittedly limited testing (since I just finished the job and only tested things out an hour or so ago in my garage), I now (seem to) have TOTAL CONTROL over when I want the headlights up/on or down/off, regardless of ambient light levels.
(***Again, based on my limited testing to date*** - although I simply followed information posted many times on the forum specifically about the 4.7K ½ Watt resistor) and can't see WHY this 'resistor-subbing' should not work or screw anything ELSE up. As far as the 'computer' knows, it's simply always daylight now...).

Maybe the above will help/encourage others who wish to do the same thing. It only took me 20 minutes or so to do the whole job and I didn't even try to rush.

QuicksilverC5

 

I like the fog lights to come on (as well as the parking lights), just not the headlights. This made it possible on a US spec model equipped with TS.

 

This is the wiring diagram which shows the functions controlled by relay #44 (automatic lamp control)

Do those of you who have done the mod still have high low beam control and flash to pass?

 

I did this mod on my Canadian Vette last year and it works great. However, the headlights are still on, but in the down position. I was a little concerned that this might create too much heat build up, but I haven't had any issues so far.

 

Good to know, I'm gonna just leave it. I don't want them on in the down position. Heck, I got like 120K miles on my headlight gears before either of them took a crap anyway.

 

Pulled #44 micro relay, my lights are NOT on in the down position, high beam/low beam/flash to pass all works fine, no trouble codes on DIC., seems like a very easy solution to TS takes all of 5 minutes.

 

Good to know

 

Hi, I'm in B.C. and just received a headlight pop up defeat system. Takes 20 minutes to install. Everything stays normal with your car except the self opening headlights. Just google in Gadgetman c5 headlight defeat. It is only $18 and free shipping in North America.
Al...

 

Another option is the Defeat by Corvette gadget man and on EBay too.

 

Search for a member name of Stockman, he took care of mine with a resistor he put in the centre vent on the dash pad.
worked like a charm and no codes.

 

OP asked the question over 9 years ago. He probably found a solution by now.

 

. Question has been answered.