I got mine here on the forum for a good price.

Here is the thread they have about them...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-p...5-shipped.html

 

Mine has had the locking plate REMOVED under the recall. I was just about to buy the $50 CLB until I watched the 2 videos in the above post. Seeing that the issue Im experiencing is the "pull the key 10 seconds", the guy on the video claims 88% of people with that problem is having a battery issue, thus my POS Red Top.. It has a low voltage and is only a 100 reserve when the C5 calls for a 120 reserve. That in itself baffles me since several people here swear by the Optima Red Top. They are not cheap! Now, the AC Delco looks like a pretty good deal, and its a AC Delco and will look correct in the car. I think Im going to sleep on this one since we are expecting 3 days of rain and the car is tucked away in the garage. I was also baffled by the comment made on the video that the CLB will eventually hurt your computer and since they are not a dealer item anymore, that could be a possible problem in the years down the road. The CLB is going to be my last resort, after the battery replacement. I have called 4 dealers and not one has had the same answer to the Pull the key 10 Seconds issue! Actually, one claims they have never heard of such a thing. LOL,
As of now, Im leaning on spending $100 on the AC Delco and hope for the best.. If I still get the Pull the Key BS, Ill spend another $50 and do the CLB.
If anyone has any other issues, chime in.. Im not in a real hurry to do much as this is just my Toy Car and not my daily driver.
Thanks in advance

 

I had an Optima Red Top leak on me ... it might be rare, but it can happen. I have a thread somewhere in the C5 Tech forum about it. Found it ...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...a-red-top.html

I also came across another case reported here on this board.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...p-leaking.html

 

So, as I see it now, any battery has the potential of leakage. Seems we should all make it a habit to take a look every time the hood gets opened.
As far as the buy the $50 CLB or not buy the CLB.
Im going to buy the most cluck for the buck battery with as many CCA and 120 RA or more. The Optima Red Top is only 100RA and that is under rated for the C5. (still wondering why so many are raving about that battery?) Since the Computer needs something like 12.6 volts to tell itself the steering lock is unlocked and the Red Top Optima isn't giving me that, it will be a Yellow Top 13.1 volt or the AC Delco Performance battery from the dealer @$100 with the great warranty. Way too many opinions lately and my head is starting to hurt pretty bad.. Im just going to start with one thing at a time and when the "Pull the Key 10 second" issue goes away, Ill know I finally found the fix related to my car.
This will be officially be my FIRST "MOD" to my bone stock 17k mile 1998.

 

Thanks for the heads up, that leak was much less severe than the one my car had originally...

 

Be sure to clear your DTCs after you install the new battery. Then test it. If the code is set, the system will think the problem is still there.

I could have this wrong, but if I remember there were a series of battery made that were used in early C5s that leaked, they fixed the design problem and initially went to a AGM (glass mat) AC-Delco but discontinued it after a few years. GM then went with the professional series, which is a better design and to my knowledge has no history of leaking.

 

So in the Part 2 video (between time 10:30 and 11:45), he talks about the column lock bypass not causing enough current to go through the BCM (.03 amp instead of 1.4 amps) which can cause the relay contacts to fail over time? Did I hear that right? ... anyone know the technical details on this supposed issue?

Also, he talks about how it's "impossible" for the column lock to engage while the car is being driven ... but I've read there have been reports of it happening. What he fails to address are any possible "failure scenarios" that could cause a short and power to actuate the column lock while driving. Sure, it's designed not to do that ... but it's a failure of something that causes things to work differently than designed. That what he failed to address.

 

Just as curious as you to get a more definitive answer on that about the BCM not getting the proper signal and causing BCM issues.

Anyone?

Also, anyone had a bypass module installed, and removed it? Issues?

 

I installed a CLB on my '98 A4. I had no issues before, the column did not lock (recall had been performed by previous owner), but everyone advised me to install the CLB for "peace of mind". Well, AFTER installing the CLB, I started getting the "Pull key......" message. Nothing I could do would stop it. Cleaned all grounds, new battery, etc. After seeing the videos linked to by the gentleman, and swapping some e-mails with him, I removed the CLB, and reset all codes. I've had no more issues........and that was last spring (about 3k miles for me). I know it's not a popular view here on this forum, but I think sometimes folks jump to conclusions on this issue too quickly, and try to treat a symptom instead of the cause. There is no doubt that there is a real issue with that system on some of our cars, and I'm sure the CLB has fixed issues for some folks, but it's not always the "cure all", or preventative insurance that it is made out to be. My car is proof of that.

As for the issues created by less than nominal current to the BCM, I can tell you from experience that in low voltage systems, damage to contacts can occur from less than correct feed to them. Whether this could happen to our BCMs or not, I cannot say for sure, but I am not taking that chance.

Good luck!

 

So, if a column lock bypass was designed to draw the normal 1.4 amps instead of the claimed 0.03 amp, it seems the BCM wouldn't know the difference.

 

That's the way I see it, yes. Now my experience is with Industrial applications, usually using 24v DC control voltage and milliamp current, so that's why I stated that I don't know for sure it would do damage.......but as I said, I'm not taking the chance, especially as long as I have no issues with the car. Honestly, my experience with this has led me to believe that there are other problems (security system) that will mimic the symptoms that the real Column Lock problem shows. Of course, all this is only my opinion (or educated guess....lol).

 

So....can someone make this easy....did we all make a mistake putting in the CLB ?

 

Lot of hypotheticals here.

I'm guessing that there are many 10's of thousands of CLB's installed.

So how many have had BCM failures that have had CLB's installed.

How many have had the CLB installed for more than say 5 years and have had no problems?

Same question but for say 8 years????

 

That's a very good point. I'd say damage to the BCM is highly unlikely based on the lack of folks coming forward with a BCM issue.

Now, while you're on hypothetical scenarios, wonder how many of those CLBs were installed in "recall serviced" cars that really only needed the correct battery (reserve amps, etc.) installed to solve the issue?

Obviously, there is no way to answer this.......but it makes me wonder.

 

A BIG THANK YOU to 8VETTE7 for some outstanding suggestions and help in my situation!
Like I was told, check the BATTERY FIRST! Well..... My Optima Red Top, which was bought 3 1/2 months ago, has been proven DEFECTIVE! At FULL charge, I had 12.4 Volts! Then, within a few hours, it would drop to 12.2 and stay there. It was enough to start the car, but not enough to keep the computer happy. Yesterday, I went to WalMart and asked the reserved amp on their best battery and the Shop Manager had NO CLUE.. OK, not gonna buy one of those! We need 120 RA, which the Red Top only has 100RA !!!. Today, I stopped at the Interstate Battery Shop in town, which also happens to carry Optima and the guy checked my Red Top. He called me up and said, I have another of the MANY DEFECTIVE Red Tops that Optima has been selling lately! HE offered to warranty the Red Top in exchange for a Yellow Top if I paid the difference. NO PROBLEM! Just over $40 and I was on my home with a NEW Optima Yellow Top, which has a full charge rating of 13.1 Volts, 750CCA and 120RA and a 36 mo free replacement! Better yet, After hooking up the new battery, I have no "pull the key and wait 10 seconds" issue (knock on wood).
Needless to say, Im a very happy guy today! 8VETTE7 steered me in the right direction and his help paid off! Now, Im going to place my order for the CLB from Texas as an added insurance that none of this happens again!
Any of you out there than are having these problems and have the Optima Red Top, I highly suggest you get the battery tested. Not only that, if you are considering buying a Red Top, DON'T! The 100RA is not enough for the C5. The YEllow Top has the required 120RA. Granted, the Red Top looked great in my Torch Red Vette, but... The Yellow one WORKS! Thanks again to 8VETTE7 and all the others that offered suggestions!

 

I too was concerned about column locking while driving, many stated they read this, read that but I have NEVER EVER seen any proof that it actually happened, usually story is I heard/know/ etc. someone it happened to. GM says will not and is NO DOCUMENTED cases of this happening...I would wager if it did happen you would have seen/heard it on national tv and a recall or lawsuits would occur...think 80s audi acceleration and toyota of today same problem. toyota is finding almost all are reported by those over 55 and computer shows no braking occurred as owners stated. I chose not to have a clb in my 03 and keep a good battery with good charge and believe it will do the trick...time will tell I guess....good luck to whatever everyone decides to do for their vette

 

The full sticky on this subject lots of interesting reading CLICK

And a PDF to build your own CLB, I'm having an EE look at it, there is a parts list and schematic in the document.

PDF Build your own

This might help the conversation...

 

Here are two more very interesting post here on this topic:
CF Post 1 Read the last post specifically on the first page of this post.

Next page is this link that Grumpy posted a while back tip

 

I think there were a few documented reports given to the NHSTA of the steering wheel supposedly locking up while driving. If it actually was the column lock's fault or not is hard to say. Just saying if there was the right failure mode (short circuit ?), it might be possible that the lock actuator could move into the locked position while driving.

 

RA or RAM is defined as ... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery

"Reserve capacity minutes (RCM), also referred to as reserve capacity (RC), is a battery's ability to sustain a minimum stated electrical load; it is defined as the time (in minutes) that a lead-acid battery at 80 °F (27 °C) will continuously deliver 25 amperes before its voltage drops below 10.5 volts."

Which if I understand correctly, means the yellow top's 120 min rating will allow it to run for another 20 minutes at the testing load before battery voltage drops to 10.5 vdc. Why would this make the battery a large problem? I've had mine in the car for 6 months without issue. I do keep a Battery Tender on it when the car sits for a week or two to prevent discharge issues.

I have heard from several members on here that have had a Red top for 5 or more years without failures. I wonder if the quality is going down or there was just a bad batch recently.