its killing me i finally recieved the clb (column lock bypass) from the known company on the forum from houston thats made these products from the begining. anyways i installed it used the cigarette liter to help reset the column lock didnt work so i decided to hook a charger to my battery to give the battery more juice to see if thats the problem.
still didnt work.
i pulled both fuses under the passenger fuse box 29 and 25.
still didnt work
hooked the battery back up to a car this time with the other car idling at 2500 rpm for about 4-5 mins
still no luck
i then disconnected the battery
still no luck!

i just want to drive my
z06 its killing me

any ideas of what i should do?
yes i know there are posts but i couldnt find anything and i didnt want to go 50 pages back to be the very last post so im starting a new one.

thanks in advance!

 

Is your battery charged now and your ready to install?

 

i charged it a couple times once earlier today for like 30 min then one more time for about 10 and another time hooked up to the car with the other car on reving. its not a new battery but ive never had problems with it and it starts up fine never once a sign of it going out.
i already installed the clb

 

So is your CLB working? You have power to your car?

 

i installed it but i still have the column lock ive reset the fuse so the code is ereased but still i cant move the wheel

 

Are you the original owner? if not maybe a previous owner had the comp reflash that Chevy had tried a couple years ago, at the time there were a lot of posts and debate about it working or not and im not completly sure about recalling corectly but if they did the reflash i dont think the CLB would then work, i could be wrong, sorry if i am,
just don't remember all the details from back then try call COH if thats where you bought it maybe they could give you some help,
my CLB was bought from them and still works perfectly after being in a 01' and then my curent 04' so 9 years so far
Good Luck keep us posted

 

Did you try jerking the steering wheel from side to side violently? Sometimes this allows a malfunctioning column lock motor to operate.

 

Need to watch these videos...watch all the way through!

Part 1
http://vettetube.com/view_video.php?...25f49408d959ca

Part 2
http://vettetube.com/view_video.php?...3c1a84ce5276e9

 

Those videos make me wonder about installing the CLB kit I have on my desk.

I had the dreaded "pull key and wait 10 seconds" message until I replaced the 2 yr old battery my car came had when I bought it.

 

Watching those videos, and swapping notes with that gentleman makes me think just like you. I removed my CLB after that, and have had no problems on my '98. PM me if you want........sounds like we had similar issues, solved by similar fixes. By the way.....hello to a fellow Tennessean!

 

I had the same problem. Basically I used the wheel shake to release the column lock. There is a good description in the tech section thread, but you will have to read a lot to get to it. Basically with the key out of the ignition, Turn the locked steering wheel back and forth as hard as you can. Then, with your left hand pull the steering wheel hard like making a right turn. Then put the key in the ignition and slowly turn it to the on position (no need to start the car). That should release the col lock. then, what I did was (without touching the ign key) disconnect the battery. This killed the system and prevented the col lock from re-engaging.

After that, I put the clb in and made the relay jumper mod behind the passenger footwell.

During the time the battery was out, I took the key back out of the ign. switch. When I hooed the batt back up, everything was hunky-dory.

I strongly suggest you take the time to read the col lock thread in the tech section. A lot of good folks have patiently explained every step and there are a couple of folks that will work you through your problem.

 

I have read that LONG thread and that is why I wonder about this. I am also a new C5 owner, and researched a ton before buying my car. I have the CLB kit in hand, but just want to make certain what I have.

The CLB recall was performed on the car prior to me owning the car, so I need to see which one was done. I know I don't have the kit that plugs in to the column since it killed the engine when I got the message on the DIC.

 

Go Vols!. I just went through the Service column lock, put mine back together yesterday. Do you have a manual trans or auto? What is the state of things? (column locked, etc)

 

6 speed. The dealership removed the CL plate and did some sort of recall on it before I got the car. When I got the message it would stall when I backed up and then restart fine. After I put in the new battery, it stopped doing it.

 

Amazing Videos! I have a 98 with a "red top" battery that I feel is my problem that is giving me the "pull key 10 sec" message. It has happened twice in the past week of ownership. In both cases, I was able to start the car and be on my way on the 2nd attempt. After seeing this video, i took my "flukes" meter and noticed my battery is only 12.25 volts! Thus, i feel I have a defective Red Top. I have called Optima and since Im not the original, my 4 month red top is not covered under their warranty. Im very tempted to buy the Yellow Top and have the 13.1 volt battery and see if I ever see another issue. Now more than ever, Im willing to give this a try. A $200+ new battery is so much better than being somewhere in the middle of no where and having a failure. I bought this car to enjoy my mid life crisis. The last thing I want is my wife to look at me and say, I told YOU to buy a NEW car! BTW, my C-5 only has 17k miles! Watching this video, the last thing he stated was, in HIS opinion, the CLB will eventually kill the BCM due to the lack of voltage in the BCM not able to keep contacts clean. (WHY IS MY HEAD SPINNING) So, I guess I'm off to Costco to get a new Yellow Top Optima~ Since my red top only is rated at 100 reserve and this video states I need 120 reserve.. Im still feeling like it was a big mistake to let my 1980 C3 be sold. I really mis it, though, this basically NEW C5 is so much more car!. The guy in the video stated that 88% of all issues that Im having (pull key and wait 10 sec) are battery related. So, first step is a new $200+ battery and see if that takes care of it. After that, a $50 CLB. Wish me luck guys! This video in my opinion was
very good and actually made perfect sense to me.. Its worth a try. Besides, my red top is still OK for a POS like my wifes 2005 Sebring convertible, that is still sporting the original MOPAR battery. I think a few "D" flashlight batteries will start that car. I am in a total fog that her Chrysler is still fine with the OEM Battery! Ive never had any new car battery last more than 12 months and 1 day! Sorry for the long post!

 

I guess I'll never understand why people insist on spending $200 on a battery that will not last any longer than a battery costing less than half the price that has the proper specs for the C5. Guess I just refuse to drink that kool aid.

 

Well, Costco has discontinued selling the Optima battery! So.... Im thinking I will take the advice of some and stop by WalMart (im ducking while people start throwing stuff at me) and see what they have to offer in their upper line batteries. I really would like a gel battery just for the issue of leakage on the computer, but I don't take my Vette 4 wheeling, so that shouldnt be an issue. Comments before I head out the door???? Im open to suggestions!
thanks in advance

 

Anyone??????

 

AC-Delco Professional Series 78-6YR/7YR. It's $104. for 6YR 38 months free replacement, 7YR 50 month free replacement. I think the 7YR was $140. Has 120 RC.

I bought the 6YR.

I know what you all are saying, and had the same thought too after I watched it. I haven't removed the CLB, but I have given it some thought. I question the constantly switching switch as he said, only that I would expect it to be a digital circuit affected by the 5v signal. If I knew the internals of the module better, I would have a more solid opinion on that.

From an EE perspective we need to know more about exactly what the bypass module is doing and what signal it is sending in return and what is happening on the BCM side.

Defective actuator motor or low voltage are the reasons this will happen.

To the OP,

I'd would try the shake method. The way I did it was have the key in, then move the wheel back and forth a few times and then on the last slam hold it tight and reach with the other hand and gently turn the key On. It took a couple of times and finally released. Once that happens, assuming you have valid power, as long as you don't let the steering get to the position or move slight to lock again it will stay unlocked. If you remember, after you pull the key it doesn't immediately lock until the steering wheel is budged (like moving it as you are exiting). I drove mine for four days like that until I got the CLB and could install it. Never once did I set the lock.

Also, trying clearing the codes before you start. Then wrack the wheel and try the key a few times. Try to be reasonable, don't go ape on it and destroy the mechanism and pin. That will be regretful.

 

I paid ~$140 for my OPTIMA Redtop and to me it is cheap insurance that I won't have acid damage my harness and paint again.