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I have not had a chance to drive my 2004 lately for several weeks at a time, so I put a Battery Tender Plus on it today. My question is: do you guys remove the positive terminal cable and put the battery tender clamp directly on the battery post, or do you leave the terminal cable on the battery? I hooked the negative battery clamp to the hood release latch.
After I unplugged the tender, I started the car and cycled through the gauges on the DIC and noticed that there was no tire pressure reading for the right front tire. I checked the tire pressure readings earlier today before I hooked up the battery tender and all readings were fine. Any one else experience anything similar?
Sometimes it takes a few minutes for the BCM to get reading from the sensor - did you check it later to see if it was working?
I put the + positive under the 12 V stud on the side of the fuse center and the (-) Ground on the frame where the other ground wires are going. You can put the ground to the battery terminal if you desire to.
I have not had a chance to drive my 2004 lately for several weeks at a time, so I put a Battery Tender Plus on it today. My question is: do you guys remove the positive terminal cable and put the battery tender clamp directly on the battery post, or do you leave the terminal cable on the battery? I hooked the negative battery clamp to the hood release latch.
After I unplugged the tender, I started the car and cycled through the gauges on the DIC and noticed that there was no tire pressure reading for the right front tire. I checked the tire pressure readings earlier today before I hooked up the battery tender and all readings were fine. Any one else experience anything similar?
Heres what I use on all of my vehicles... I just attached + to + and - to -...had no funny readings at all.
If you are going to be using it often (always....which would be a good idea) you might want to just put a lug ring on each end and attach those directly to the battery. A short lead off that with a quick connector (that you can only connect one way...they sell them at radio shack or home depot) and either keep it short and open the hood to connect or make it a bit longer and pull it into the cove (yes you can reach through to the cove from inside the engine compartment) and you can drive in and reach in cove and connect without opening hood.
I wasnt clear on which way you hooked yours up, because if you disconnected the positive lead, that may be why you are not seeing the tire pressure. You have to drive a bit for it to register again.
You can hook it up a lot of ways, but anything other than directly to the battery terminals is placing more connections (even grounding it to the frame relies on a good ground getting back to the battery) in the set up and I figure Im trying to maintain the battery so why go past there.
Not saying any other way is wrong, just what works for me....good luck
Another one here. Straight to + and - on the battery and no issues
If the TPS is going South it should give a XXX reading before it dies. If its only one sensor not reading chances are that its the sensor itself. Is it throwing a code? Dont forget it's dormant until the car hits 5mph so its worth a quick trip (2 or 3 miles) to see if it reads once its active. Mine take 2 miles to update the readings.
Thanks to everyone for the replies. I have not had a chance to take the car out today for a drive, but will do so tonight to see if the right front TPW registers. It may be because I had the + terminal completely off at one point. It did not throw a code, but I'll check again later. From now on, I'll connect both + and - directly to the battery terminals.
I've had a Battery Tender directly connected to the +/- battery terminals on my C5 most of the time for the past 8 years with zero issues. The tire pressure sensors will go dormant after a period of time and will only activate with movement of the car after a certain distance/time so it's normal to not get a reading on one or more sensors after the car sits for an extended period.
I have not had a chance to drive my 2004 lately for several weeks at a time, so I put a Battery Tender Plus on it today. My question is: do you guys remove the positive terminal cable and put the battery tender clamp directly on the battery post, or do you leave the terminal cable on the battery? I hooked the negative battery clamp to the hood release latch.
After I unplugged the tender, I started the car and cycled through the gauges on the DIC and noticed that there was no tire pressure reading for the right front tire. I checked the tire pressure readings earlier today before I hooked up the battery tender and all readings were fine. Any one else experience anything similar?
Is the hood release latch even grounded? Did it complete the circuit?
All of my BATTERY TENDER PLUS units have been hooked up directly to the battery terminals with ring terminals (original ring terminals are usually to small for the studs. If you have to change them out, just make sure you identify positive from negative. A little shrink wrap in red/black works fine.
Since I have a red top Optima, I bought extra cable ends and mounted on the top posts. I put permanent bolts attached to these to the Ctek charger. To disconnect I simply unplug the Ctek plug from the plug attached to the battery. Works great.
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I leave the battery cables attached and just clamp the battery tender to the end of the post that holds the cable to the battery. No problems at all. And I haven't noticed the issue you have with the TPS on mine.
The red light on the tender stayed on constantly, indicating it was properly connected. The green light came on later indicating full charge.
Yup, pretty common. A dead red top will take a charge and turn the charger green, it may even check out as looking ok if tested, but on use it doesnt hold up. Check the Optima site, they do describe a procedure to recharge them that involves hooking another good battery up to the dead red top and charging them both as a way to properly recharge the red top.
Mine charged fine after I killed it (inadvertantly left a switch on for some footwell lights when I parked it in the garage) but never performed well after. I didnt want to hassel with it so I just replaced it with a Sears Die Hard Platinum.
But keep in mind that even if it was brand new, what you described may indicate another problem (dead short somewhere) or that you may have a similar problem with the new battery if you leave it parked long enough without a tender.
I hook it directly to the + and - on battery. I have 4 battery tenders on other vehicles and have been using them since they first started building them. Never had any issues. I have one on my generator for over 8 years now with no issues.
I took the car out for a 15 mile run last night and the right TPW reset and is working. The voltage on the DIC fluctuated between 13 and 13.8 (I used the air conditioning and radio).
Thanks for the tips on hooking up the tender. From now on, I will hook the tender direct to the positive and negative posts on the battery.
I leave the battery cables attached and just clamp the battery tender to the end of the post that holds the cable to the battery. No problems at all. And I haven't noticed the issue you have with the TPS on mine.
same here with my Harbor Freight unit, no issues here.
One thing no one mentioned,,If I recall correctly,,the car has to reach 10mph for the sensors to start transmitting. This is probably why you got readings when you drove it!! Tenders,,while do have them,, don't apply for me,,it never sits very long,,,I can't stay out of it !!!