What Kelvin HID'S Are You Running
#21
I started with 6000K 35W in my low beam Light Cannons. The output was weak.
I then went with 5000K 35W and it was better than the 6000K.
I finally went with 4300K 55W and am going to stick with it from now on.
I have 4300K in my foglights and the combination is perfect for me as I drive a lot at night and in the rain at night.
I then went with 5000K 35W and it was better than the 6000K.
I finally went with 4300K 55W and am going to stick with it from now on.
I have 4300K in my foglights and the combination is perfect for me as I drive a lot at night and in the rain at night.
#23
Former Vendor
Member Since: Nov 2005
Location: Spring Texas
Posts: 8,995
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2 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08
1.Are all the hid kits made the same, Example ebay kits 50 bucks ,2 local shops ones 100 bucks for low's and another shop is 150 for low's does it really matter
Most HID Pnp kits are similar quality. Just about every one comes from about 5 large factories in china or elsewhere in asia. The only differencees are how much the merchant wants to charge.
2.Is 8000k low beams and 6000k fogs too bright
The brightness is not what you have to worry about. it's the glare proeduced by using HIDs in your oem healight housings. This glare hampers your long distance vision and may cause night-blindness. You really need a projector-based kit to get the most out of your HID bulb.
Consider this comparison pic:
3.Simple pros and cons
Pros: Longer bulb life (~2000-3000 hours) 2-3x total lumens output.
Cons: If used in a proper projector housing, none.
4.What kelvin is against the law if any!!
Many states have laws against "blue" lights, but that's up to the officers opinion of what is blue. I had one trooper pull me over for having "blue" tag lights. I had to explain to him they were white LEDs. I would avoid anything higher than 6000K to be on the safe side. Also remember that anything higher than 6000K also has significantly less visible light output.
5.Whats a good hid brand?
For what you're wanting to do, there is no distinct difference in brands. If you were using OEM equipment in a true retrofit (D1 or D2-series bulbs) You'd want Hella or Matsu****a Ballasts and Philips or Morimoto bulbs.....but you won't find these in plug-and-play setups.
Most HID Pnp kits are similar quality. Just about every one comes from about 5 large factories in china or elsewhere in asia. The only differencees are how much the merchant wants to charge.
2.Is 8000k low beams and 6000k fogs too bright
The brightness is not what you have to worry about. it's the glare proeduced by using HIDs in your oem healight housings. This glare hampers your long distance vision and may cause night-blindness. You really need a projector-based kit to get the most out of your HID bulb.
Consider this comparison pic:
3.Simple pros and cons
Pros: Longer bulb life (~2000-3000 hours) 2-3x total lumens output.
Cons: If used in a proper projector housing, none.
4.What kelvin is against the law if any!!
Many states have laws against "blue" lights, but that's up to the officers opinion of what is blue. I had one trooper pull me over for having "blue" tag lights. I had to explain to him they were white LEDs. I would avoid anything higher than 6000K to be on the safe side. Also remember that anything higher than 6000K also has significantly less visible light output.
5.Whats a good hid brand?
For what you're wanting to do, there is no distinct difference in brands. If you were using OEM equipment in a true retrofit (D1 or D2-series bulbs) You'd want Hella or Matsu****a Ballasts and Philips or Morimoto bulbs.....but you won't find these in plug-and-play setups.
#25
#32
Melting Slicks
I'm running 5000k 55w mains and 4300k 35w in my fogs. 6000k were too dim for me - gave me eyestrain. 8000k would lead me to suicidal thoughts from the eye strain. The higher in kelvins you go, the less light you are putting on the road in usable lumens and the more "blue" it is, the more it will be sucked up by the blacktop.
#35
Safety Car
As I understand it 4300 is white and the most light output, anything above that is technicaly "not white" so there is some blue in there. If an LEO wanted to be a stickler, they do have ways to test it (a card they can hold ifo the light and if it isnt white, you can read the text, if its white light...no text..like that). It probably boils down to what they look like, if they look blue, its just another reason to get stopped (just an opinion).
Also as you increase watts, the lights get a little whiter, so 4300k at 35 watts will look similar to 5000k at 55 watts, so you can get away with higher than 4300k if you're running higher wattage.
Dont have them installed but they are paid for and on the way, 4300k lows and halogen highs, in projectors.
Also as you increase watts, the lights get a little whiter, so 4300k at 35 watts will look similar to 5000k at 55 watts, so you can get away with higher than 4300k if you're running higher wattage.
Dont have them installed but they are paid for and on the way, 4300k lows and halogen highs, in projectors.