My DIC is flashing every code imaginable. I'm getting service traction control, radio goes out then comes back, check tire presssure, tires are all fine. Service vehicle soon. The gas gauge goes out then comes back. What the hell is going on. I go through the DIC codes and every one of them is thrown with multiples of 2, 3, 5 and I even had one with 7 codes. Anyone experience this? Need help.

 

Mine did that when the battery was going south.

 

I would agree with the comment above, battery.

 

I'd check the battery then the wiring in your doors. Jiggle the wiring harness between the car and door and see if that helps. Theres a connector in there that corrodes and causes issues.

 

Faulty grounds??!!

 

Just checked the battery, the date wasn't pulled on it when it was installed. I'll go to the dealer and he can tell me when he sold it to me. It's not that old.

 

Awile back I took as many off as I could and sanded them down. A year or so ago.

 

Why?

 

You're getting power interruptions for some reason. I'd bet that when you check the codes you'll have a number of U codes flagged up.

I'd say it's either a bad battery, loose leads, a short circuit or a bad ground

Check the voltage of the battery but don't read the DIC. The voltmeter is designed to measure alternator output when the car is running. It will always measure an inaccurately low voltage on the battery when the car is off. Anything from 11.0-11.9 is not abnormal in this mode. With the engine on, the voltmeter should show between 13V and 14.5V. You need to read the value at the battery terminals using a multi meter. A fully charged battery measures 12.66 V and a fully discharged battery measures 11.86 V.

For any of these methods, you must first fully charge the battery and then remove the surface charge. If the battery has been sitting at least several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must be discharged for several minutes. Using a headlight (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the light you are ready to test the battery.
State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage
12V 6V
100% 1.265 12.7 6.3
*75% 1.225 12.4 6.2
50% 1.190 12.2 6.1
25% 1.155 12.0 6.0
Discharged 1.120 11.9 6.0

If that's OK check the battery leads. Clean the terminals and reconnect the leads. Reattach the positive cable and torque to 15 N-m (11 lb ft). Reattach the negative cable and torque to 16 N-m (12 lb ft)

If that's OK, check the grounds. Start with the one on the passenger side just behind the headlight on the frame.

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Finally, check the wiring inside the rubber gaiter in the door hinges. The wiring can chafe causing a short circuit. If the wires look good disconnect the connectors clean them and reconnect.



Hopefully one of those should find your problem.

 

Great post with pics! BTW how did you clean the connectors on the pass side connector once you separate/unplug it?

 

I've been chasing these gremlins for some time now. Mine have always been in the DS door wiring. I don't want to type this too loudly (the gremlins may hear me) but look to the door wiring. Look inside at the driver side (footwell) just inwards of the dash on drivers side, and there should be a panel upwards. This is where the door cable comes in from the door (as shown above) to the body. This panel could have come loose and/or cause wiriing to rub/short. I have been chasing these gremlins for almost one year. Lots of U codes TCS/ABS everything going wack. I think I've chased them away, but now that I've talked/typed about them....??

 

I know how you feel. They can be so annoying you don't want to jinx yourself. Hopefully you got it fixed permanently.

 

Great tutorial Dave.

 

Bill Curlee's sticky, "Important Electrical Information" on the C5 Tech page is a great place to start.

My money also says it's in one or both of the door connectors. My car did the same thing earlier this year. I took each accordion boot out, unplugged and looked at the two electrical connectors there that run from behind the dash to the door. All looked good on both sides, so I put them back together and and then completely wrapped each connector with electrical tape before replacing the boots. At the same time I also cleaned the two frame ground connectors under the hood and tightened the battery terminals. I haven't had a problem since.

 

Checked the battery, its an optima 25 months old, the battery dealer hooked it up and said it was good and charging properly. Did three of the grounds in the engine compartment, didn't do the one in the battery box looked ok. Took the boots off both doors and the wires were ok, no scuffing that I could tell. Taped up the two connections that had that clear tubing over the one wire, didn't like how that was behaving. Thanks all for the info, I'll keep charging ahead with this.

 

Stuff started acting weird so I thought I'd start there.

 

 

Here's the thing, with something like this the devil's in the details. Had it been me, I would have unplugged and checked the door connectors even if they looked ok. Make sure the battery connections are tight-in other words, put a wrench on them to make sure.
When I experienced the same problem, everything on my car "looked ok." In the end, doing what I described in my previous post solved the problem.

 

Oh I took them apart, I tugged on each wire to make sure it was seated, pulled as much as I could out of the door and car to check for scrapes and abrasion, oh don't get me wrong I took all 4 apart and went all over that stuff. No corrosion at all.
Took the cables off the battery and sanded the terminals on both sides. Sanded and filed the grounds. Took the ground plugs apart, no corrosion in there either.

 

I didn't catch that you did all that work from your post. Sorry.
Are you still experiencing problems?