Oil reading problem
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Augusta Ga.
Oil reading problem
Hello,In have a 99 FRC for almost 2 years 44,400 miles.Parked car last everything fine,this morning cranked up fine and runs fine.All the gauges working properly except oil pressure gauge reads 80 and DIC reads oil pressure 129 psi and does not change. Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,Karey
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
Yeah, wrong forum but in fact, your oil pressure sender has failed. Common problem for the C-5's. I suggest that when you buy a new one, get a "brass" one if possible. You'll have to remove the intake to get to it which is easy to do or cut a hole through the cowling.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 19,384
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From: Horncastle Lincolnshire, England
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
You might want to consider this when you replace the sensor:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ation-kit.html
TPE have an upgraded harness available
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ation-kit.html
TPE have an upgraded harness available
Last edited by DeeGee; Jan 5, 2011 at 10:44 AM.
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Very common problem with the C5. If you want to tackle it yourself, I have some Word files that discuss the procedure, as well as some files that talk about a sensor relocation modification. PM me your e-mail address if you want copies.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 6,612
Likes: 493
From: brooklyn ny
Yeah, wrong forum but in fact, your oil pressure sender has failed. Common problem for the C-5's. I suggest that when you buy a new one, get a "brass" one if possible. You'll have to remove the intake to get to it which is easy to do or cut a hole through the cowling.
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 240
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From: Yangpyeong Gyeonggi-Do
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 47
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happened to me yesterday. posted earlier about it. looks like an easy fix. the youtube link posted above shows a guy putting it in in about five minutes. im giving it a shot in the morn. i got the part from the dealership in dallas for $57. ill let you know how it goes.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 240
Likes: 2
From: Yangpyeong Gyeonggi-Do
As indicated above you should make sure you are using a brass sender and not one of the aluminum ones. Pay close attention to the torque and do not over torque or you will be doing the replacement all over.......
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 510
Likes: 4
From: Chesterfield VA
We replaced 2 oil pressure senders in the last 3 weeks in two different cars. That video is a 
You can't get to the sender because the brake boaster pipe is over the sender. Not sure how he was able to do it without removing the brake boaster but we tried everything and came to the conclusion to remove the mainfold.
Also depending on where the clip is on the sender it may take you 2 hours just to remove the clip.There is a fear of dropping the old sender or the new sender when installing it. After that happy hunting...
Save you a head ache and do it right.
You can't get to the sender because the brake boaster pipe is over the sender. Not sure how he was able to do it without removing the brake boaster but we tried everything and came to the conclusion to remove the mainfold.Also depending on where the clip is on the sender it may take you 2 hours just to remove the clip.There is a fear of dropping the old sender or the new sender when installing it. After that happy hunting...
Save you a head ache and do it right.
Last edited by Neck Breaker; Jan 6, 2011 at 09:13 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 240
Likes: 2
From: Yangpyeong Gyeonggi-Do
The clip is NOT BS because I removed mine in that method. There was no need to remove the brake booster line, you just have to get the oil sender socket under it. The clip took about 15 seconds to get the plug off. Used a dental pick and popped the clip free. If your afraird the sender will fall out of the socket use a small piece of electrical tape inside the socket. guarantee it does not just fall out. Had to do mine twice because the first sender I received was an aluminum piece of crap and lasted all of 4 days.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 510
Likes: 4
From: Chesterfield VA
The clip is NOT BS because I removed mine in that method. There was no need to remove the brake booster line, you just have to get the oil sender socket under it. The clip took about 15 seconds to get the plug off. Used a dental pick and popped the clip free. If your afraird the sender will fall out of the socket use a small piece of electrical tape inside the socket. guarantee it does not just fall out. Had to do mine twice because the first sender I received was an aluminum piece of crap and lasted all of 4 days.
I like to see a poll of the people that have done this trick.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Aiken SC
I cut the hole in my cowling. Very simple & clean. Cutting the hole, replacing the sensor, & re-assembly cowling cover took about 30 minutes total. Works great & you actually see what you are doing.
Gregg
Gregg
Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 666
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From: Mt. Pleasant SC
I agree. Removing the intake manifold is the only sure way to mitigate all risks associated with replacing that little SOB. Cut the cowl? Not on my car! Removing the manifold also gave me the opportunity to clean things up and replace the 11 year old gaskets.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Aiken SC
!st....you can't tell that a hole has been cut. I cut mime with a dremel, tapered the cuts so the cut piece fits right back in the slots. I then put 1 strip of black gorilla tape over it to hole it in place. It's very neat and you would have to take the upper cowling (where the windshield wipers go on) off to see it. You only cut a hole big enough to remove the wire connector and then put the 1 1/16 socket through to remove the sensor. You're not cutting a hole big enough to remove the motor.
2nd...my manifold gaskets are fine, they don't need replacing.
3rd....I guess you would never cut your radio bezel to install a double din either.
2nd...my manifold gaskets are fine, they don't need replacing.
3rd....I guess you would never cut your radio bezel to install a double din either.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 510
Likes: 4
From: Chesterfield VA
I should of replaced my gaskets. But then again when the problem 1st happen I took it to the stealership and they replace them for me but I passed on the sender. So hopefully my gaskets are ok for a 11 yr car too. But really how do you know if they replaced the gaskets unless you was there watching them. That's the million dollar question.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 666
Likes: 5
From: Mt. Pleasant SC
!st....you can't tell that a hole has been cut. I cut mime with a dremel, tapered the cuts so the cut piece fits right back in the slots. I then put 1 strip of black gorilla tape over it to hole it in place. It's very neat and you would have to take the upper cowling (where the windshield wipers go on) off to see it. You only cut a hole big enough to remove the wire connector and then put the 1 1/16 socket through to remove the sensor. You're not cutting a hole big enough to remove the motor.
2nd...my manifold gaskets are fine, they don't need replacing.
3rd....I guess you would never cut your radio bezel to install a double din either.
2nd...my manifold gaskets are fine, they don't need replacing.
3rd....I guess you would never cut your radio bezel to install a double din either.