2004 C5 Clunk.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
I had a really loud pop/clunk from under the car that turned out to be the axle problem described by Jet Jock. You won't feel any movement of the wheel with the axle nut on.
Take off the wheel and nut. Reach behind the brake rotor and grab the half shaft. Make sure your trans is in neutral and e-brake is off. Chock the front wheels first. The half shaft should move freely inboard to the diff and back out to the hub. You might need to tap it with a hammer to break any corrosion. Lube the spindle with spray grease from the front and behind while moving the half shaft back and forth.
I cleaned off the axle threads before retorquing to 120 ft-lbs.
I did it to both sides and it is quiet and perfect now.
Take off the wheel and nut. Reach behind the brake rotor and grab the half shaft. Make sure your trans is in neutral and e-brake is off. Chock the front wheels first. The half shaft should move freely inboard to the diff and back out to the hub. You might need to tap it with a hammer to break any corrosion. Lube the spindle with spray grease from the front and behind while moving the half shaft back and forth.
I cleaned off the axle threads before retorquing to 120 ft-lbs.
I did it to both sides and it is quiet and perfect now.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
Checked and adjusted both ends. I am so comitted to this that last night I bought my first laptop so that I could look at the pictures that you all have sent me in the garage next to the car! This thing is harder to work on that the Vette! I test drove the car about 50 feet. Still have the clunk. Tomorrow I'm going on a club run and I plan on asking the others what they think. I wish we had a good Vette shop here in San Diego. I have no one I can trust......
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
I failed terribly at this. I couldn't get the half shafts loose to save my life. The only tool I don't have is a brass hammer. I had my auto trans in neutral, and wacked the heck out of it with a lead filled rubber mallot, and used a punch inside the axel hole. It is frozen. I have to regroup and figure out what to use. I sprayed everything the best I could. Haven't tried it, but I'm sure it did nothing..........
I've notice the driver's side is much more difficult to move then the passenger side is. It only has to move maybe a quarter of an inch. Just enough to give you room to get the nozzle in that area from the inside or backside. I concentrate more on the PB Blaster and just put a little lubricant afterwards. Of course I wipe all that PB Blaster off as it runs all over. Put a rag on the ground underneath as it will make a mess on the floor.
Just to recap, you had the nut off and were tapping on the shaft to move it in some correct?
I'll assume yes, I use a rubber mallet. I've whacked and whacked on the driver's side and it barely moves. As long as I can get that plastic nozzle inside I'm good.
When I first did this after reading those directions. that spindle shaft wouldn't budge for nothing. But then I realized it doesn't have to move much. Those guys talking about oh just push it out, yeah right...that is not happening on mine.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
Was it both sides or did you just start with one side and stopped?
I've notice the driver's side is much more difficult to move then the passenger side is. It only has to move maybe a quarter of an inch. Just enough to give you room to get the nozzle in that area from the inside or backside. I concentrate more on the PB Blaster and just put a little lubricant afterwards. Of course I wipe all that PB Blaster off as it runs all over. Put a rag on the ground underneath as it will make a mess on the floor.
Just to recap, you had the nut off and were tapping on the shaft to move it in some correct?
I'll assume yes, I use a rubber mallet. I've whacked and whacked on the driver's side and it barely moves. As long as I can get that plastic nozzle inside I'm good.
When I first did this after reading those directions. that spindle shaft wouldn't budge for nothing. But then I realized it doesn't have to move much. Those guys talking about oh just push it out, yeah right...that is not happening on mine.
I've notice the driver's side is much more difficult to move then the passenger side is. It only has to move maybe a quarter of an inch. Just enough to give you room to get the nozzle in that area from the inside or backside. I concentrate more on the PB Blaster and just put a little lubricant afterwards. Of course I wipe all that PB Blaster off as it runs all over. Put a rag on the ground underneath as it will make a mess on the floor.
Just to recap, you had the nut off and were tapping on the shaft to move it in some correct?
I'll assume yes, I use a rubber mallet. I've whacked and whacked on the driver's side and it barely moves. As long as I can get that plastic nozzle inside I'm good.
When I first did this after reading those directions. that spindle shaft wouldn't budge for nothing. But then I realized it doesn't have to move much. Those guys talking about oh just push it out, yeah right...that is not happening on mine.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Man you are just not having much fun...
I going out on a limb here, you are breaking the spindle nut free before you begin lifting the vehicle up correct? I break the spindle nut then the wheel lugs, then jack it up and put a jack stand in under the rear cradle catch at least two segments of the cradle with the jack stand. Then remove the lugs and wheel, then start on the spindle nut. I leave my hydraulic jack in place as the jack stand to me is to prevent any accidents.
I put a piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe about 24" long that I slip the 1/2" socket wrench handle into for additional leverage. Works great. Yes, you want a 33m deep well 6-point socket. I got mine at AutoZone, they aren't cheap.
Otherwise, I'd like to hear more about this spinning the axel shaft.
And yes, you probably moved the driver's side enough to get in there and apply the corrosion cleaner and lubricant. I just picked up at Napa chain lubricant spray. It squirts out like a liquid and sets up like a lithium grease.
I going out on a limb here, you are breaking the spindle nut free before you begin lifting the vehicle up correct? I break the spindle nut then the wheel lugs, then jack it up and put a jack stand in under the rear cradle catch at least two segments of the cradle with the jack stand. Then remove the lugs and wheel, then start on the spindle nut. I leave my hydraulic jack in place as the jack stand to me is to prevent any accidents.
I put a piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe about 24" long that I slip the 1/2" socket wrench handle into for additional leverage. Works great. Yes, you want a 33m deep well 6-point socket. I got mine at AutoZone, they aren't cheap.
Otherwise, I'd like to hear more about this spinning the axel shaft.
And yes, you probably moved the driver's side enough to get in there and apply the corrosion cleaner and lubricant. I just picked up at Napa chain lubricant spray. It squirts out like a liquid and sets up like a lithium grease.
Last edited by Jet-Jock; Jan 21, 2011 at 06:44 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
Man you are just not having much fun...
I going out on a limb here, you are breaking the spindle nut free before you begin lifting the vehicle up correct? I break the spindle nut then the wheel lugs, then jack it up and put a jack stand in under the rear cradle catch at least two segments of the cradle with the jack stand. Then remove the lugs and wheel, then start on the spindle nut. I leave my hydraulic jack in place as the jack stand to me is to prevent any accidents.
I put a piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe about 24" long that I slip the 1/2" socket wrench handle into for additional leverage. Works great. Yes, you want a 33m deep well 6-point socket. I got mine at AutoZone, they aren't cheap.
Otherwise, I'd like to hear more about this spinning the axel shaft.
I going out on a limb here, you are breaking the spindle nut free before you begin lifting the vehicle up correct? I break the spindle nut then the wheel lugs, then jack it up and put a jack stand in under the rear cradle catch at least two segments of the cradle with the jack stand. Then remove the lugs and wheel, then start on the spindle nut. I leave my hydraulic jack in place as the jack stand to me is to prevent any accidents.
I put a piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe about 24" long that I slip the 1/2" socket wrench handle into for additional leverage. Works great. Yes, you want a 33m deep well 6-point socket. I got mine at AutoZone, they aren't cheap.
Otherwise, I'd like to hear more about this spinning the axel shaft.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Too funny, laughing with you!
Yeah let's break it free before lifting. I use a small blade screw driver with a piece of cloth over to protect the center caps while I pop them out.
Betting that afterwards, you'll go to the next meeting an expert on this clunking sound.
Yeah let's break it free before lifting. I use a small blade screw driver with a piece of cloth over to protect the center caps while I pop them out.
Betting that afterwards, you'll go to the next meeting an expert on this clunking sound.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
Ok, I spent another two hours on the car today with no success. I bought the 33 mil socket and serviced both rear half shafts. No difference. I took apart the passenger side of the wheel well and touched everything in there. Nothing. However, I have a new clue. Today I noticed that driving on level ground, I shake the steering wheel at about 20 mph and I hear the noise from the front right. Remember, I replaced the rack & pinion. The right side or passenger side of the stock rack clanked when you hit it. I agreed with the mechanic that that was the problem. I've decided to buy the $180.00 rotors and pads from one of the forum vendors and try that. While I have the front apart, I'll take the wheel bearings out and check them even though all shops say that's not the problem. The rotors are ok to buy because I did warp the stock ones during the last track day I went to and I can look like the big boys with holes in my rotors. What do you all think?
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Sorry along the way I missed you saying the sound coming from the front.
I would get that rack re-inspected.
Make sure your brake kits contain new bolts (2 pre-coated) and new spring clips.
I would get that rack re-inspected.
Make sure your brake kits contain new bolts (2 pre-coated) and new spring clips.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
Which bolts? Which springs? Are you talking about the emergency brake springs? I bought this rack from Corvette Central. They said their rebuilder has been doing theirs for many years. I know it sounds like the rack, but both front end shops said it's fine. Oh man......
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Caliper mounting bolts. Here's a picture of the rear AC-Delco set, note the spring clips and bolts. On the fronts, only the top is removed, on the rear's on the lower bolt is removed. The caliper will swing out of the way. However if you are replacing rotors, you will be dealing with the caliper bracket mounting bolts. I'm trying to recall if those are single torque only bolts or not. Many times they are.
Front caliper rotated:
Rear caliper rotated:
Just because they have been doing them for years, doesn't mean it can't fail again. Just saying...
Front caliper rotated:
Rear caliper rotated:
Just because they have been doing them for years, doesn't mean it can't fail again. Just saying...
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 435
Likes: 1
From: Newcastle, UK
I failed terribly at this. I couldn't get the half shafts loose to save my life. The only tool I don't have is a brass hammer. I had my auto trans in neutral, and wacked the heck out of it with a lead filled rubber mallot, and used a punch inside the axel hole. It is frozen. I have to regroup and figure out what to use. I sprayed everything the best I could. Haven't tried it, but I'm sure it did nothing..........
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
Mine were completely frozen. Even hitting the ends with a 5Ib hammer with a copper bar on there to prevent any damage, wouldn't even budge them. I modified a 4 stud hub puller to use on our 5 studs but ended up going out and buying a much bigger 4/5 stud hub puller. I still had to tighten the central pushing bolt a hell of a lot in order to get them to move. They're both now nicely lubed and will easily push in with only a thumb.
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 435
Likes: 1
From: Newcastle, UK
I'm so envious of your climate that's for sure.
Last edited by eldudereno; Jan 27, 2011 at 06:19 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 51,504
Likes: 6
From: Sacramento CA
OP, I removed my exhaust system entirely. The sound that you describe that I also have went away.
I'm not sure WHERE the exhaust is making contact but... You might want to take a look at yours.
Mine is corsa btw.
I'm not sure WHERE the exhaust is making contact but... You might want to take a look at yours.
Mine is corsa btw.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 86
From: San Diego CA.
Yep. Been all through the exhaust. I've pounded every inch of it. I'm glad you've fixed yours. Mine? Still making me crazy. lol.....