2004 C5 Clunk.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA.
lol...... I have nothing back in the holes except a sub which is absolutely secure. I bought the car two years ago to drive to Bowling Green. It had 1800 miles. The car was perfect. The man I bought it from was dieing. I noticed a slight noise then but nothing that bugged me. It's gotten very bad. I've had it at Spring Mountain and have drag raced it. I have a nitrous set up, but have it mounted in a very secure manner. I've double checked all after market things I've done including the HID boxes in the headlight holes. Nutten.....
Last edited by vetten76; Jan 19, 2011 at 12:36 AM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA.
I have a similar noise it happens over bumpy roads sort of like a piece of metal rattling loose against sheet metal.
Not sure if it is the welding above the gas tank issue. I also have a clank noise after going into reverse and stopping suddenly shifting weight.
I am curious if it is a wheel bearing.
Not sure if it is the welding above the gas tank issue. I also have a clank noise after going into reverse and stopping suddenly shifting weight.
I am curious if it is a wheel bearing.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA.
I have a similar noise it happens over bumpy roads sort of like a piece of metal rattling loose against sheet metal.
Not sure if it is the welding above the gas tank issue. I also have a clank noise after going into reverse and stopping suddenly shifting weight.
I am curious if it is a wheel bearing.
Not sure if it is the welding above the gas tank issue. I also have a clank noise after going into reverse and stopping suddenly shifting weight.
I am curious if it is a wheel bearing.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
St. Jude Donor '05, '14, '15
I have replaced my:
swaybars, endlinks, rotors, calipers, brakes, brake lines, springs. No help.... I'm thinking I need to check my tunnel plate, see if it binds when going over a speed bump or whatever, I need to get under there and check it, will try to do that this week.
swaybars, endlinks, rotors, calipers, brakes, brake lines, springs. No help.... I'm thinking I need to check my tunnel plate, see if it binds when going over a speed bump or whatever, I need to get under there and check it, will try to do that this week.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA.
I have replaced my:
swaybars, endlinks, rotors, calipers, brakes, brake lines, springs. No help.... I'm thinking I need to check my tunnel plate, see if it binds when going over a speed bump or whatever, I need to get under there and check it, will try to do that this week.
swaybars, endlinks, rotors, calipers, brakes, brake lines, springs. No help.... I'm thinking I need to check my tunnel plate, see if it binds when going over a speed bump or whatever, I need to get under there and check it, will try to do that this week.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Most likely:
There is a noise that will come from corrosion buildup on the spindles. It will make a click or clunking sound mostly from the right side but both are affected. The fix basically involves removing the spindle nut, pushing the spindle back a fraction of an inch or so and cleaning them up with PB Blaster or similar then lubricating the contact points on the inboard side with a motorcycle chain lub and then retorque the nuts. Specs and notes and pictures are in the post. Takes about a hour to fix.
Here's the link: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-bearings.html
Scroll down to the last post by jbauch357 page one and then go to page two for more pictures and steps.
You don't need to replace the spindle nuts, they are not single use only. They are made with interference and it takes effort to remove them and install them.
This service last about a year, I just did mine again last weekend, as the clunking sound comes back as corrosion builds up again.
There is a noise that will come from corrosion buildup on the spindles. It will make a click or clunking sound mostly from the right side but both are affected. The fix basically involves removing the spindle nut, pushing the spindle back a fraction of an inch or so and cleaning them up with PB Blaster or similar then lubricating the contact points on the inboard side with a motorcycle chain lub and then retorque the nuts. Specs and notes and pictures are in the post. Takes about a hour to fix.
Here's the link: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-bearings.html
Scroll down to the last post by jbauch357 page one and then go to page two for more pictures and steps.
You don't need to replace the spindle nuts, they are not single use only. They are made with interference and it takes effort to remove them and install them.
This service last about a year, I just did mine again last weekend, as the clunking sound comes back as corrosion builds up again.
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Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 435
Likes: 1
From: Newcastle, UK
Later version from the stickies where jbauch357 now recommends using grease on the inside.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-thread-2.html
post 32
also.
So you might well get away with simply tightening the hub nuts up.
If you do decide to grease the inner splines and mating face, also re-torque your sway bar + sway links when you've got the car lifted up as this is also a problem associated with rear end noise.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-thread-2.html
post 32
also.
If you do decide to grease the inner splines and mating face, also re-torque your sway bar + sway links when you've got the car lifted up as this is also a problem associated with rear end noise.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
From: Bend Oregon
Use the Sherlock Holmes method. When you have eliminated all the possibilities then the impossible must be considered. Or something like that. I had a clunk on my 65 Impala that drove me nuts and it was a loose windshield wiper motor......just throwing stuff out there. Also you might want to see a doctor......Not saying it's in your head but an MRI every now and then is a good thing..JK.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 51,504
Likes: 6
From: Sacramento CA
This thread made me get up under my car and start poking around again yesterday. I wasn't able to find anything. (Mine has had the spindle cleaning done.)
I noticed one of the screws in the wheel well liner had ripped out of the car.
That's made me think - what if it's body related?
I noticed one of the screws in the wheel well liner had ripped out of the car.
That's made me think - what if it's body related?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA.
Most likely:
There is a noise that will come from corrosion buildup on the spindles. It will make a click or clunking sound mostly from the right side but both are affected. The fix basically involves removing the spindle nut, pushing the spindle back a fraction of an inch or so and cleaning them up with PB Blaster or similar then lubricating the contact points on the inboard side with a motorcycle chain lub and then retorque the nuts. Specs and notes and pictures are in the post. Takes about a hour to fix.
Here's the link: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-bearings.html
Scroll down to the last post by jbauch357 page one and then go to page two for more pictures and steps.
You don't need to replace the spindle nuts, they are not single use only. They are made with interference and it takes effort to remove them and install them.
This service last about a year, I just did mine again last weekend, as the clunking sound comes back as corrosion builds up again.
There is a noise that will come from corrosion buildup on the spindles. It will make a click or clunking sound mostly from the right side but both are affected. The fix basically involves removing the spindle nut, pushing the spindle back a fraction of an inch or so and cleaning them up with PB Blaster or similar then lubricating the contact points on the inboard side with a motorcycle chain lub and then retorque the nuts. Specs and notes and pictures are in the post. Takes about a hour to fix.
Here's the link: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-bearings.html
Scroll down to the last post by jbauch357 page one and then go to page two for more pictures and steps.
You don't need to replace the spindle nuts, they are not single use only. They are made with interference and it takes effort to remove them and install them.
This service last about a year, I just did mine again last weekend, as the clunking sound comes back as corrosion builds up again.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA.
Use the Sherlock Holmes method. When you have eliminated all the possibilities then the impossible must be considered. Or something like that. I had a clunk on my 65 Impala that drove me nuts and it was a loose windshield wiper motor......just throwing stuff out there. Also you might want to see a doctor......Not saying it's in your head but an MRI every now and then is a good thing..JK.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
This is a good one. I drove the car today. At 55 and above, no noise. It's really bad at low speed. I swear it sounds like a caliper, so perhaps the spindle is the problem. It's a no cost try and I want to have the wheel bearings in my hand as well. There is no play from the wheels, but......... Thanks for this
Last edited by Jet-Jock; Jan 19, 2011 at 08:10 PM.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 394
Likes: 71
From: Miami Florida
subscribed, VERY interested in this topic
do you think a small keychain camera taped to various underbody locations and recording the clunking sound would help you "zone in" to the problem?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoY9lHjuRGA
they are like $5 on ebay
just an idea...good luck
do you think a small keychain camera taped to various underbody locations and recording the clunking sound would help you "zone in" to the problem?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoY9lHjuRGA
they are like $5 on ebay
just an idea...good luck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 8,466
Likes: 51
St. Jude Donor '17
Each rear wheel is connected to the rear end thru a half shaft. On each half shaft are two rubber boots that contain a constant velocity joint coupling. Each CV Joint contains six large ball bearings that ride in six precision machined slots.
The CV Joints very very seldom fail unless the rubber boot is damaged and dirt gets into the CV Joints. There should not be any lost motion between the CV Joint and the rear end.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA.
C5/C6 Corvettes do not have U joints. The Torque tube has a heavy duty rubber coupler on the front and a heavy duty rubber coupler on the rear of the propellor shaft inside the torque tube to dampen drive train loading. No way to check them without removing the drive train.
Each rear wheel is connected to the rear end thru a half shaft. On each half shaft are two rubber boots that contain a constant velocity joint coupling. Each CV Joint contains six large ball bearings that ride in six precision machined slots.
The CV Joints very very seldom fail unless the rubber boot is damaged and dirt gets into the CV Joints. There should not be any lost motion between the CV Joint and the rear end.
Each rear wheel is connected to the rear end thru a half shaft. On each half shaft are two rubber boots that contain a constant velocity joint coupling. Each CV Joint contains six large ball bearings that ride in six precision machined slots.
The CV Joints very very seldom fail unless the rubber boot is damaged and dirt gets into the CV Joints. There should not be any lost motion between the CV Joint and the rear end.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Olympia WA
Are you getting it when on irregular pavement and weight is being distributed around the different 4 corners of the car?
I think I just found mine and its that damn adjust heim joint end link.
I'll know this weekend.
They do make adjustable ball joint end links but your going to pay for them.
The last month I was working pretty hard at tracking down the factory vendor but never buttoned it up.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,385
Likes: 85
From: San Diego CA.
Careful on this one. Are they adjustable heim joint end links? How aggressive is the angle on them?
Are you getting it when on irregular pavement and weight is being distributed around the different 4 corners of the car?
I think I just found mine and its that damn adjust heim joint end link.
I'll know this weekend.
They do make adjustable ball joint end links but your going to pay for them.
The last month I was working pretty hard at tracking down the factory vendor but never buttoned it up.
Are you getting it when on irregular pavement and weight is being distributed around the different 4 corners of the car?
I think I just found mine and its that damn adjust heim joint end link.
I'll know this weekend.
They do make adjustable ball joint end links but your going to pay for them.
The last month I was working pretty hard at tracking down the factory vendor but never buttoned it up.