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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 06:54 PM
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Default PCV Issue

Hey all. I have a bolt on 03 Z06 and my PCV hosing essentially fell apart causing me to throw codes and not run so great. I fashioned up some hosing using 3/8 fuel line and some elbows along with a new PCV valve, but it still isn't running great. Car has stalled 3 times today alone, mostly when coming to a stop. No one carries the PCV assembly around here and Chevy wants ~$140 bucks for it, but would need to order it. I am in a bind as I am driving the car daily so looking for some advice on a fix. Thanks all!
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 11:54 PM
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Default Pcv

Need pictures of what you are talking about. The PCV line on your car shouldn't be an issue if you replaced it. My car is a 97 with the old style PCV system and valve. I was told by a reliable source to use Transmission coolant line for a replacement because fuel line breaks down with oil.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 12:45 AM
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Do you still have vacuum leaks? Is that what you are trying to repair?

Fuel or Transmission line is acceptable. Even old school breather systems have worked for many many miles using heater hose.

The Z06 just uses a couple short pieces of hose though, doesn't it? From the valley to the TB; and from the valve cover to the TB, right?

Should be a pretty easy fix.

Post pics of your issue though, maybe we can help.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by bucketlist1957
Need pictures of what you are talking about. The PCV line on your car shouldn't be an issue if you replaced it. My car is a 97 with the old style PCV system and valve. I was told by a reliable source to use Transmission coolant line for a replacement because fuel line breaks down with oil.
Goodyear emission/fuel line hose is made for PCV systems or fuel systems. Why anyone would think that fuel line hose breaks down is beyond my comprehension.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 10:55 AM
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Ok so here's the setup I rigged together to try and make this work. Picture is below. The car will idle fine, both hot and cold temps. Problem is once you touch on the gas and the RPMs go back to idle, it wants to stall out (RPMs drop to 3-400 before catching itself). Occasionally it will stall out completely like when the defroster is on. Hope this helps as this is driving me nuts.

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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 03:03 PM
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Why are you not using hose clamps?
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 03:20 PM
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You will need to do an idle relearn to solve the issue. It will fix itself eventually but to speed it up, do the relearn.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 03:21 PM
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BTW, the GM hose assembly is just that, an assembly. It routes all the way from the driver's side valve cover, around the back of the engine and then to the passenger valve cover and then finally to the PCV hose. The assembly contains the PCV valve too.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave68
Why are you not using hose clamps?
Was going to after everything was buttoned up. The fittings are so tight in there that clamps likely won't make a difference for testing out the solution. My thought anyway...
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dgrant3830
You will need to do an idle relearn to solve the issue. It will fix itself eventually but to speed it up, do the relearn.
What does the relearn entail? How do I go about doing that?

Justin
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 06:45 PM
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Use the search function in here...its been posted lots of times. I don't know it by heart.
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 09:17 PM
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You do not need hose clamps on a vacuum system unless the hose is too large.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 10:19 AM
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...not always true. If you are using emissions line hose (or almost any other type of hose that is made out of an elastomer material, the rubber loses plastisizers over time and will allow leakage, even under vacuum pressure conditions. There are some types of fittings that do not require clamps ut the ones pictured are not that type. I know because I've been working with vacuum systems for more than 20 years. Always use a clamp unless the fitting and hose are designed to be used, clampless.

Last edited by Dave68; Mar 11, 2011 at 10:22 AM.
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 04:09 PM
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Update on the issue. Took the car to my tuner and after fashioning a better setup than I had (probably wasn't very hard) the issue went away. Computer showed the car was being choked due to lack of air moving through that setup. Good to go. Thanks for all the help!
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 06:31 PM
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Instead of hose clamps, on vacuum lines, I use cable ties.

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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 09:37 PM
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Changed my pcv hoseing out today mine was dry rotted in 3 places, 1 at the elbow on the driverside rear valve cover 2nd was broke into behind intake and 3rd end of the hose that the pcv valve goes in, NOW I gotta clean up all the oil..!







NEW ONE

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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by UM Rebel
Instead of hose clamps, on vacuum lines, I use cable ties.

Now there is a major vacuum leak! Where is your PCV valve to stop that from happening?
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dgrant3830
Now there is a major vacuum leak! Where is your PCV valve to stop that from happening?
This is the 2004 LS1 with "fixed orifice" ... no PCV! Chill Brother

Last edited by UM Rebel; Mar 15, 2011 at 10:56 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 11:04 PM
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Ok,...cool
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 11:10 PM
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Just showing use of cable ties rather than hose clamps.
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