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Help! Signal Indicators Bulb Replace ?

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Old May 3, 2011 | 11:19 PM
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Default Help! Signal Indicators Bulb Replace ?

Silly question of the night....

Need to change out the front Signal Indicator Bulbs, ironically Owners Manual doesn't even acknowledge they exist?

I can see them with hood and headlights up, but can't reach them ?

Is there a simple trick that I am missing on this?

Thanks
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Old May 3, 2011 | 11:26 PM
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Yes, below the bumper there is a small plastic access plate you can remove to swap them out. I believe the screws are 10mm.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by damilleniumboy
Yes, below the bumper there is a small plastic access plate you can remove to swap them out. I believe the screws are 10mm.
Easy access.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 11:35 PM
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You can also pop the headlights by turning them all the way on then backing off one click. Then you can reach in and access the lights. They require a push / twist / pull motion.

WARNING: after (15? 20?) minutes the lights will close DANGEROUS. You should be able to complete the task in 2-3 minutes with no issues. Just don't stop in the middle for a beer.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 11:56 PM
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Or, you can push the brake duct accordion in from the front, move the flexible part to the side and reach in from there.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 12:10 AM
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Awesome, you guys are the greatest!
Thanks!
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Old May 4, 2011 | 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by damilleniumboy
Yes, below the bumper there is a small plastic access plate you can remove to swap them out. I believe the screws are 10mm.
yep, a no brainer even for me
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Old May 4, 2011 | 06:10 AM
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You'll get three suggestions

Go in through the brake ducts - not easy with a Z06 or if you have screens

Go in through the bottom by taking out the bottom panel



The one that works for me is:

Turn on the headlights and back off one position to kill the lights.
Unscrew the 3 small screws on the black plastic housing around the headlight. Gently pull the housing clear. Reach down around the headlight unit and release the bulb holder. It comes out by turning the bulb holder a ¼ turn counter clockwise but it has a plastic clip which you need to squeeze to release it. Here’s how the bulb fits into the lamp unit. The DRL bulb is the lower of the two.



Here’s the light socket. This one’s after market but it gives you the idea. You can see the clip you need to squeeze.



BTW, if you ever need to replace this socket the part #s are GM 12083689, AC Delco LS15 or Dorman 85882 (Thanks to UM Rebel)

Change the bulb. It’s a push fit into the lamp holder. Push it home firmly but don’t handle the glass. Use latex gloves if you have them. Reseat the bulb holder and turn clockwise until it clicks back in place. Put the plastic headlight housing back in place making sure to locate the small plastic tab in the bracket on the headlamp cover. Replace the 3 screws and close the lights.

It’s a 10 minute job. Some guys have had the lights close if they’ve taken a while to do the fix. If you’re worried about that, disconnect the battery once the lights are up.

The bulb is a 4157NA

Some guys with big arms remove the hood adjusting screw for better access. Guys with even bigger arms have had to take off the headlight cover. Four torx screws (2 back, 1 each side). Take the back ones off first with the lamps down. Raise the lights and take the side ones out.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 06:30 AM
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Good luck. I've found going through the bottom access panel is easiest for me.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Jistari
Or, you can push the brake duct accordion in from the front, move the flexible part to the side and reach in from there.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 09:54 AM
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Also has a video on it.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 08:25 PM
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Excellent thnaks Guys, curious why Owners Manual has no mention whatsoever, shows how to do the back ones ( duh ) but not the fronts ??
Thanks, all done and peice of cake!
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Old May 4, 2011 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BACNBLK
Excellent thnaks Guys, curious why Owners Manual has no mention whatsoever, shows how to do the back ones ( duh ) but not the fronts ??
Thanks, all done and peice of cake!
Thanks for asking the silly question before me Mine went out today.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by doje
WARNING: after (15? 20?) minutes the lights will close DANGEROUS.
I was scared this would happen when I was doing my HIDs.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by damilleniumboy
I was scared this would happen when I was doing my HIDs.
Just disconnect the battery and you'd have no issues. If I was installing HID's I'd want the battery disconnected anyway.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 06:21 PM
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Actually, about the lights closing, its really no big deal, there's a manual **** right there (remove the rubber cap and turn) to raise em if you need to work on them. When you are done, just turn them on and off again right from the switch and they will close/open back to where they belong.

Before I started taking the lights apart to do the HID projectors I was reticent to screw with anything fearing that when I put it back together something wouldnt line up. The way its designed, thats not gonna happen. The open/close cycle is regulated by resistance at each end, so where ever you leave them when you hit the switch they just go to the end of their travel and stop, even if one was half open and the other was closed.

Also, you dont have to worry about taking the top covers off, they sit on screw height adjusters and that wont change unless you "screw" with them. The panel comes off with four screws and you have access to the light buckets, you lay the panel back on (it just sits on the adjusters), install screws and it lines back up no problem.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 06:32 PM
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I was just going to say if you don't have large arms, then you might be able to go through the lamp door up method. As stated above just roll the one up manually. For safety disconnect the harness.

Remove the plastic cover around the lamp three screws, note how it slips under a small lip on the front of the underside of the lamp door. Reach in and rotate it out, DeeGee has excellent pictures.

You'll probably need to drive up on ramps or raise the one side to remove the cover panels underneath, if you go with the underside panel method.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Jistari
Actually, about the lights closing, its really no big deal, there's a manual **** right there (remove the rubber cap and turn) to raise em if you need to work on them. When you are done, just turn them on and off again right from the switch and they will close/open back to where they belong.

Before I started taking the lights apart to do the HID projectors I was reticent to screw with anything fearing that when I put it back together something wouldnt line up. The way its designed, thats not gonna happen. The open/close cycle is regulated by resistance at each end, so where ever you leave them when you hit the switch they just go to the end of their travel and stop, even if one was half open and the other was closed.

Also, you dont have to worry about taking the top covers off, they sit on screw height adjusters and that wont change unless you "screw" with them. The panel comes off with four screws and you have access to the light buckets, you lay the panel back on (it just sits on the adjusters), install screws and it lines back up no problem.
It's only a big deal if your arm is in there when it happens.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by doje
It's only a big deal if your arm is in there when it happens.
My arm or your arm ?







Thats why Im saying "just use the ****", we like ***** dont we ?
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