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Agreed. I did it myself when I did the headers and the headers were four times harder. The springs were not a big deal. If I had it to do over again, I would buy the dual compressor pictured above to make it quicker.
If you get a wicked strong rare-earth magnet like the ones you take out of computer hard drives, you can stick it on the valve stem and it will catch the retainers every time.
If anybody has had it done at a shop, it would be interesting to hear what they charged.
PAC 1218s and GM valve guides $650 parts and labor. And this is a shop that works on just ls engines
Had mine done yesterday. It probably cost me around $650 out the door including the PAC springs, gaskets, seals, installation, taxes. Who knows if this was worth doing, but I guess I will sleep better at night which is worth something.
Had mine done yesterday. It probably cost me around $650 out the door including the PAC springs, gaskets, seals, installation, taxes. Who knows if this was worth doing, but I guess I will sleep better at night which is worth something.
$$$ well spent IMO. Every time you read one of those posts where someone was unfortunate enough to break one, you'll be glad you did.
I'm just reading up on this issue now. I have an '03Z with 32k miles on her. I plan on going ahead and changing out the springs this winter/spring time frame. I'm curious as to what you guys that have done this have used for an air blocking tool (not sure how to describe this exactly) that you thread into the cylinder and then connect your air line to?
I own an '03 Z06, built in January & it has over 50K miles...I'm leaving it as is. Supposedly it was the 2002 and early 2003 models that were affected. I think that they stop the Model Year production in July or August.
I was doing 70 mph when my valve spring broke. Your right. it will grenade your engine. Mine busted number 1 piston, broke the rod, 2 holes in the block and 1 in the oil pan. No warning at all when it broke.
I own an '03 Z06, built in January & it has over 50K miles...I'm leaving it as is. Supposedly it was the 2002 and early 2003 models that were affected. I think that they stop the Model Year production in July or August.
I don't think model year production goes that late into the summer. Hard to say if later production 2003s had better springs or not. Nothing can be nailed down specifically by VIN on this issue.
I'm just reading up on this issue now. I have an '03Z with 32k miles on her. I plan on going ahead and changing out the springs this winter/spring time frame. I'm curious as to what you guys that have done this have used for an air blocking tool (not sure how to describe this exactly) that you thread into the cylinder and then connect your air line to?
Also, what PSI is needed to hold the valves up?
Thanks,
You don't necessarily have to use compressed air. You can change the springs out by putting the cylinder at TDC. The valves will only drop ~1/4". Or you can put some soft nylon rope down the spark plug hole when the piston is near BDC, then rotate to bring the piston up until it stops and smashes the rope up into the closed valves. That's the method I used.
I'm just reading up on this issue now. I have an '03Z with 32k miles on her. I plan on going ahead and changing out the springs this winter/spring time frame. I'm curious as to what you guys that have done this have used for an air blocking tool (not sure how to describe this exactly) that you thread into the cylinder and then connect your air line to?
Also, what PSI is needed to hold the valves up?
Thanks,
You can buy the air fitting. Its basically just a hose with a fitting on one side that fits to your shop air chuck and the other side threads into the spark plug bore. I would say 100psi + is a safe bet for air presssure. I keep my air at 120psi fo pretty much everything. This method is fast and safe as well.
You can buy the air fitting. Its basically just a hose with a fitting on one side that fits to your shop air chuck and the other side threads into the spark plug bore. I would say 100psi + is a safe bet for air presssure. I keep my air at 120psi fo pretty much everything. This method is fast and safe as well.
Safe only if you don't loose air pressure. If you lose air pressure for some reason (loose power or have an air hose blow-out), the valves will fall down inside the cylinder and the head will have to come off to retrieve them.
What's nice about the TDC/rope method is you don't have to worry about an air pressure failure, and can take your time swapping out the springs.
Safe only if you don't loose air pressure. If you lose air pressure for some reason (loose power or have an air hose blow-out), the valves will fall down inside the cylinder and the head will have to come off to retrieve them.
What's nice about the TDC/rope method is you don't have to worry about an air pressure failure, and can take your time swapping out the springs.
Over the course of the last 22 years, Ive been a professional mechanic and worked in the field as well as a home hobbyist, as well as a drywaller which invloves using compressors and air hoses for spraying texture and stapling on bullnose and cornerbead and NEVER in my likfe have I lost an air hose or air pressure EVER. Not saying it isnt possible, but extremely rare to have that happen. Furthermore, if you lose power, you dont lose air pressure....
I had my springs changed as well as the trunion upgrade. Definitely for peace of mind more than anything else. The springs in there were not the yellow springs but I had them changed anyway because I did not know the history of the vehicle. Wasn't knowledgeable to do the work myself so I paid a shop $700 for the PAC 1218, Comp trunion upgrade and labor. I think I made out fairly well. I did not have a spring compression tool, an air compressor or a garage so the prices of those were factored into me just having someone else do the work.
Over the course of the last 22 years, Ive been a professional mechanic and worked in the field as well as a home hobbyist, as well as a drywaller which invloves using compressors and air hoses for spraying texture and stapling on bullnose and cornerbead and NEVER in my likfe have I lost an air hose or air pressure EVER. Not saying it isnt possible, but extremely rare to have that happen. Furthermore, if you lose power, you dont lose air pressure....
Yes, it's rare to have a compressed air failure, but it's possible. If you lost power you just have whatever is in the tank to run on, which would give you some time to get the springs back on. Just sayin' it's something to consider when doing it with air ... especially check the condition of the air hose to make sure there aren't any bulges, etc that could lead to a major hose blow-out.
All I know, is the last thing I'd like to do is have to remove a head because a valve fell down into the cylinder.
Just completed this job earlier today (new GM springs & seals, along with the Comp Cams trunion rebuild kit) and it wasn't all that hard. Used compressed air and that slick Proform tool that compresses two springs at a time. What a time saver!
I would also like to thank the person that posted the link to the YouTube video on how to rebuild the trunions (I'm not sure the link is on this thread or not). That video really helped make it simple and I just used my drill press...what a snap!
54,002 miles on this daily driver '02 Z06 and I can now drive the next 50,000+ without wondering. Again, thanks to everyone for their advice and Merry Christmas!
-Dean
P.S. Another shameless plug for Gene Culley at GMPartsHouse...the exclusive parts supplier to my Z.
Last edited by BaseballDude; Dec 24, 2011 at 08:12 PM.
J
I would also like to thank the person that posted the link to the YouTube video on how to rebuild the trunions (I'm not sure the link is on this thread or not). That video really helped make it simple and I just used my drill press...what a snap!
.
Mind posting a link to that? Would like to see it. Thanks.
Not sure if that link will work, but the title of the video is COMP 13702-KIT installation tutorial. I found it searching under "LS trunion" as well. It's a little over 11 minutes in length.
BTW, he doesn't mention this in the video but the two thick washers that you use to install the second bearing are included in the trunion rebuild kit!
-Dean
Last edited by BaseballDude; Dec 27, 2011 at 11:58 AM.
Not sure if that link will work, but the title of the video is COMP 13702-KIT installation tutorial. I found it searching under "LS trunion" as well. It's a little over 11 minutes in length.
BTW, he doesn't mention this in the video but the two thick washers that you use to install the second bearing are included in the trunion rebuild kit!
-Dean
Thank you. It would have never occurred to me to use my drill press for that. Good post.
I replaced my valve springs, push rods, valve seals, and retainers about a few months ago. All has gone pretty well so far.
The only issue I'm getting is a little bit of intermittent whitish/grey smoke from the exhaust.
It only happens after I've been driving around for a while. I stop at a red light or stop sign, let the car idle and go to accelerate and "puff" i see a small smoke cloud in my rear view mirror.
The only thing I can think is that one of the valve seals didn't properly seat all the way??
Any ideas out there?
Car isn't a DD anymore so I haven't been driving it much due to the smoke screen.
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