Keep in mind that torquing any threaded component to a specified number when the component threads are dry is not the same as torqueing the component when the threads are lubricated. The resultant forces on the threads are greater when the threads are lubricated.

That's interesting about the heat transfer changes; I honestly never heard about that.

 

Not sure how much impact that has on anything, but the lubed threads and possible over torque is a well noted concern.

 

Mostly likely you will trash one wire removing it. Therefore, it is best to order a set of GM Performance Red wires and a set of AC-Delco Iridium plugs. They are preset, no gap.

Use dielectric grease on the new wire boots, use a q-tip to swipe the inside of the boot, the heat shield transfers to the new plug wire.

A standard 3/8 drive with GM spark plug socket and one extension and one swivel.

To get to the driver's side, remove the AIR valve there are two 10 mm bolts attaching it. Disconnect the hoses and then rotate the valve out of the way.

Blow out the plug area with compressed air first then remove the plug. No, on the WD 40.

You will need a 3/8 torque wrench generally a micro torque is good. Torque the plugs (15Nm).

I prefer to use aluminum anti seize on the plugs, some have different opinions.

Some say use a piece fuel hose on the tip to start the plug, but I prefer to use my fingers and start it, that way I have immediate feedback of how the plug is treading. Start it gently and let it thread, don't force it.

Generally the plugs coming out may be stiff, but the new plug going in should hand thread easily.

Wires are all the same. When installing them on the plug be sure you hear a definitive snap or click.

When removing the wires, don't worry about them a good pair of channel grip pliers will help remove the wire from the plug. It rotates 45°s and pull. Same on the could side. But they won't be the problem. Like I said don't worry about the wires when removing them, you have a new set to install. Never had any luck with those wire puller pliers, and I have two sets. Channel grip pliers work great. Be careful what you pivot against.

You may come across one or two that you swear are not coming off, all I can suggest is trying less brute force and concentrate on the procedure, rotate while pulling. And one time it will pop free.

It's a good time to clean things up as well, while you have the FRC off, compressed air works great to remove the built up material around the intake manifold.

Fender covers are nice, protect you from leaning and scratching them.

 

When I removed my factory installed Denso plugs, they had thread lubricant on them.

There's a power plant engineering paper floating about on this subject about torque and plugs, proper torque ensures the designed heat transfer. I also think the plug shank is steel and its threading into aluminum, so proper torque is important there too.

True there is a wet torque and dry torque, but I think at these torque values (15Nm) it probably doesn't vary much.

 

@jet-jock / Changed plugs in 02 and had misfires due to heat shields not letting wires make a good connection to the plug. Removed the shields and runs fine. Any tricks to getting those on with good connection? What if they are left off? Thanks in advance.

 

If my memory serves me correctly, slide the shield on the wire but above the plug boot. Press and snap the boot onto the plug, then slide the shield over the boot.

Just making an assumption, either you tried with the shield already on and did not get a good seat hence the misfire or it wasn't a good seat to begin with and when the shield is pressed on the wire is still not fully engaged.

That snap is obvious when it fully seats.

Also, there is copper anti-seize and aluminum anti-seize. I would recommend aluminum anti-seize.

 

Some aftermarket wires dont allow the shields to fit correctly, so depending on what wires you used that could be your problem.

 

plus I use a 4" piece of vacuum hose to start the plugs, fender covers and drive on ramps to reduce the back bend. Good luck.

Okie

 

NEVER Use oil on plug threads. The heat will ultimately carbonize the oil and you will have a devil of a time removing them, On top of that this carbon can cut the softer aluminium threads in the heads. I'm not sure what antisieze has in it, but I've never had a problem with plugs due to its use.
Glen

 

Glen, you are so right on.If OIL is used then you are asking for some serious problems when trying to remove the plugs.
Fred

 

I used copper anti seize before but this last time I just used a drop of motor oil. They came off the other day without a problem.