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From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
Originally Posted by chasboy
It reminds me so much of a wooden-handle screwdriver I made in my middle school shop class.
Torch, with all due respect, comparing that old, what-looks-like-oak-but-could-be-pine-with-Deft-chocolate-stain school project to my work in ROSEWOOD is downright insulting. (my students used machined plexiglass and aluminum and/or brass) That being said, introducing a new texture/color/material to any design scheme is not weird or even unusual. The fact that the piece I used had a significant figure of black running thru it attests to the fact that I had a method to my madness. In fact, I've seen some incredible brown/black interiors.
In addition, if ANY part of a redesign of a car interior has been fair game, it's the SHIFT ****. Google it and take a look at the variety of ***** out there that match NOTHING in the interior. Do you really think a purchaser of a $185 Robin Casady **** worries about being 'matchy-matchy'?
It takes some people longer than others to acquire design skills/talent...and some will never ever get it. For those interested in seeing this design principle executed on vehicles just go to the jaguar or aston-martin website and 'build your own' interior....you will be awed by the hundreds of choices of leather colors, wood finishes, metallics, carbon fiber, textures etc. that you can personalize into your new XK or DB7....damn, I love those cars!!! There is no reason the same approach can't be applied to american muscle...I hear it is coming from Ford and GM soon too.
It takes some people longer than others to acquire design skills/talent...and some will never ever get it. For those interested in seeing this design principle executed on vehicles just go to the jaguar or aston-martin website and 'build your own' interior....you will be awed by the hundreds of choices of leather colors, wood finishes, metallics, carbon fiber, textures etc. that you can personalize into your new XK or DB7....damn, I love those cars!!! There is no reason the same approach can't be applied to american muscle...I hear it is coming from Ford and GM soon too.
There is absolutely no talent and skill-set required to determine whether or not something is aesthetically pleasing to the eye. It is more of a matter of opinion. One person's taste may be different from another's. And I'm sorry, but that wooden **** is fugly.
Yea Im not sure if my uncles lathe has a large enough 3 jaw chuck to hold the 8 ball. I guess I could probably use the shop smith that the guy has down the street that I help out a couple times a week, also has two other lathes but its all really difficult to get to....
unless it's a Jeweler's lathe or a small Unimat, I'm sure the chuck is big enough, just need enough projection from the jaws, which are usually reversible.
unless it's a Jeweler's lathe or a small Unimat, I'm sure the chuck is big enough, just need enough projection from the jaws, which are usually reversible.
Well Im about to find out, its only about a 10 inch lathe so its pretty small...
Well Im about to find out, its only about a 10 inch lathe so its pretty small...
If the center hole in the chuck is smaller than the ball, put the ball all the way back against the hole. It will keep the drill from pushing the ball back in the chuck. Use a center drill, if you have one, then drill the hole with what ever size drill you want the hole to be. I have no idea what the ball you are drilling is made of so I can't recommend a speed to turn it. Too fast and it will likely start to melt the material. I would probably start around 300 rpm and see how that worked. I would probably use some kind of plastic between the jaws and the ball. Something firm so you can get a grip on the ball. ***** are hard to hold. Did I just say that?? . Maybe cut a strip out of a plastic bottle or something like that and wrap around it. Wear safety glasses and keep your body parts away from anything that is moving.
Last edited by Suthunman; Jan 12, 2012 at 05:47 PM.
There is absolutely no talent and skill-set required to determine whether or not something is aesthetically pleasing to the eye.REALLY?! Thanks!! I'll send a message to all the design schools in the world that teach exactly that principal! It is more of a matter of opinion. One person's taste may be different from another's. And I'm sorry, but that wooden **** is.
RIGHT!! OPINION!! What is 'nice' in YOUR OPINION? Another generic inert synthetic **** that is either black or white? You are getting to be borderline RUDE just to make a point, Torch. AND you are outvoted about 10-1 here. Can't wait till you rip into my next one.
If the center hole in the chuck is smaller than the ball, put the ball all the way back against the hole. It will keep the drill from pushing the ball back in the chuck. Use a center drill, if you have one, then drill the hole with what ever size drill you want the hole to be. I have no idea what the ball you are drilling is made of so I can't recommend a speed to turn it. Too fast and it will likely start to melt the material. I would probably start around 300 rpm and see how that worked. I would probably use some kind of plastic between the jaws and the ball. Something firm so you can get a grip on the ball. ***** are hard to hold. Did I just say that?? YEP. Maybe cut a strip out of a plastic bottle or something like that and wrap around it. Wear safety glasses and keep your body parts away from anything that is moving.
AMEN Brother!! Center drill is the best start. SO glad I still have a couple! I wouldn't go up to a big bit too quickly tho', especially if slippage is a concern.
AMEN Brother!! Center drill is the best start. SO glad I still have a couple! I wouldn't go up to a big bit too quickly tho', especially if slippage is a concern.
I wouldn't drill a pilot hole because some plastics try to "grab" the drill and screw it into the part if you already have a smaller hole in it. In this case, with the part not tightened enough to hold well, it will pull the ball up on the drill until one of two things happens. It pulls it out of the chuck or the torque becomes more than the chuck will hold and it spins, probably messing up the ball. Bronze does the same thing.
RIGHT!! OPINION!! What is 'nice' in YOUR OPINION? Another generic inert synthetic **** that is either black or white? You are getting to be borderline RUDE just to make a point, Torch. AND you are outvoted about 10-1 here. Can't wait till you rip into my next one.
Doesn't this board have an ignore feature? There aren't many trolls here but I've seen a few.
I wouldn't drill a pilot hole because some plastics try to "grab" the drill and screw it into the part if you already have a smaller hole in it. In this case, with the part not tightened enough to hold well, it will pull the ball up on the drill until one of two things happens. It pulls it out of the chuck or the torque becomes more than the chuck will hold and it spins, probably messing up the ball. Bronze does the same thing.
Yes that sure depends on the material, but also the condition of the drill. Some large drills, if not optimally sharp will do exactly what you state. I used to have a terrible time with Lexan, while plexiglass was no problem.
My STS has a wooden **** and I like it. heck I even heard some people like to put pool ***** on their shifter that has the shift patern engraved in.
One thing I would do though is shelac it up.
My fellow retiree, you are dating yourself!! I bet you used shellac in wood shop!! shellac has it's place as a stain killer and grain enhancer. Biggest nemesis of shellac is moisture, hence use of it on a moisture rich area like a gearshift would be a bad application tho it would be beautifull!
Well the 3 jaw chuck was way too small, I needed at least another inch so we just used a drill press with a center vise mounted on top. I ended up being around 1/16 off center but its not that big of a deal because others wont be able to notice, however Im kinda a perfectionist so...
Oh and we didnt have a 9/16 18 tap so we ordered one, not sure when that will be in. But hey at least I got some stuff I need to finish disassembling the engine in the el camino, I guess thats good.
yep, that thread is a bit of an oddball. I got my tap from Napa, came over night to the store.
Was the chuck so small you couldn't use the open jaws just to position it?
You could have put it into place and applied pressure from the tailstock, at least to center the work, and maybe to use a small starter drill. As you can see, working with a sphere is very tough!!
yep, that thread is a bit of an oddball. I got my tap from Napa, came over night to the store.
Was the chuck so small you couldn't use the open jaws just to position it?
You could have put it into place and applied pressure from the tailstock, at least to center the work, and maybe to use a small starter drill.
It only opened an inch so you would have to keep direct pressure on it to keep it there but it would be anything but secure. I did happen have a 9/16 12 tap but not an 18
It only opened an inch so you would have to keep direct pressure on it to keep it there but it would be anything but secure. I did happen have a 9/16 12 tap but not an 18
you did the best you could with what you had.
I looked all over for 9/16-18 bolts and finally found a few at a local industrial hardware store. I need to have their heads removed so I can usd them as arbors.