I have the Magnetic ride control in my 03 AE and I am worried that the shocks are bad. It could just be me though....

First thing, I have the Michelin Pilot Sport Run Flats, I am think this has something to do with it. Anyway, the roads around McAlester are crap, pure crap, thats one reason I cant lower the car. As I am driving in tour mode and hit a rough spot, it sounds as though the shock is botteming out. Its a loud thud. When I switch the control over to sport, it is definitly stiffens up as it should, but on a good rough spot I will still get that thud. Is this because of the stiff run flats? Theres no certain tire that does, it just depends on which one hits the worst part of the rough spot.

Any ideas would be great, this is worring the crap out of me that I might have been riding on bad shocks for awhile.

 

MRC shocks came packed from the factory.

Many members report that the packing was never removed.

Look at your shocks to see if the shipping packing is still in them

Peace
Chip

 

Chip, thanks for that reminder. I have done a quick look before and didnt see anything that didnt look like it belonged, but havent taken the wheels off to inspect properly.

 

I will be so pissed if I find those stuffers still in place. I have seen both of those threads before and just didnt remember that you have to lift the dust boot up to see them. Ya know, I had really planned to get off work and have a few, well, many brew's, but now I might have to get the car up on jacks and see if they are still in place.

BTW, thanks 8Vette, I am glad I read that last thread a little closer.

 

Hopefully the shocks are not shot - like was mentioned they are very expensive to replace. If you decide to go with an aftermarket shock, you can have someone with a Tech II delete the F55 stuff from your computer. Here's info that was posted by 8VETTE7 a while back on the procedure:

You can look on the inside of the glove box door and look for RPO code F55. If you have that RPO then it is Magnetic Ride Control. From a dealer you are probably looking at a cost of $3600 or more. Each shock lists at about $900. From Gene Culley (GMPARTSHOUSE.COM) you can buy them for about $600 each. Significant savings but for my money STILL WAY WAY too much for shocks no matter how good they are claimed to be.

If you can find some one with a TECH II you can bypass the F55 option in the car and then run C6Z06 shocks which you can buy from Gene at $240 FOR ALL four shocks.

Here is the information about bypassing the F55 option with a Tech II:

1. Hook up your Tech II (Driver's footwell), turn the car ON, make sure the module in the left rear storage compartment (pull back the velcro lining on the front of the compartment) is plugged in. DO NOT UNPLUG THIS MODULE.

2. Now use the Tech II to delete the F45 option (F55 option does not appear on the Tech II menu screen - SO - DELETE THE F45 OPTION.
(use the screen captures - steps 2-14)

3. Save the new configuration

4. DO NOT TURN THE CAR OFF AND DO NOT REMOVE THE TECH II. Go to the module in the rear of the car, unplug the GRAY connector - IT IS THE WIDEST ONE - leave the other 1 (F/45) or 2 (F/55) plugged in.

5. Turn off the car but LEAVE THE TECH II PLUGGED IN.

6. Remove remaining plugs from module in the rear of the car - Never plug them back in again, if you do the F/45 turns on automatically.

7. Now the moment of TRUTH - Turn the car on and verify that the dreaded - MAX SPEED 80 MPH - is gone. This message was only present if you had already disconnected the shock sensors. Some people have had to disconnect their battery to allow the computer to reset to remove this message, but I would confirm with the Tech II that the F/45 was actually deleted first and if not reconnect everything and start again with step 1.

8. Unplug the Tech II - Get in the car and take it for a ride. Smile as you pass the DREADED 80 MPH.

With these instructions in their hands even the most inexperienced technician can do this. It took mine five minutes and they charged me $25. I would have spent much more time and effort getting and installing resistors.

If you haven't already changed your shocks drive home carefully as the shocks become very soft, not dangerous but as GM advises keep it under 80MPH.


You may get some posters that will tell you can use "simulators or resistors to fool the system. These work on the earlier F45 suspension for the 2002 and earlier cars. It does not work for the F55 suspension.

 

Typically if they aren't leaking the Mag Ride shocks are pretty tough units. That being said you started a thread saying your car just ticked over 80,000 miles... that's quite a bit for one set of shocks. When you hear this thud does the car feel like it's hit a complete stop in the suspension travel? If it does check to see if the shock stuffers have been removed, if they already have it's not out of the realm of possibility that your shocks have seen better days and may be replaced. Before jumping the gun though verify that there isn't another mechanical reason why your car might be making a thud, such as endlink condition and a thorough bolt check.

If you want to replace the shocks you've got a couple options. You can either replace the factory Mag Ride shocks which are pretty expensive, or disable the Mag Ride system and go with a fixed shock or coilover setup. If you don't plan on lowering or tracking the car a fixed shock replacement like our Johnny O'Connell setup would work extremely well for you and is a whole lot cheaper than replacing the Mag Ride system with new OEM units. The Johnny O'Connell package was designed as a non adjustable shock replacement for folks looking to increase their handling ability without effecting ride quality too harshly and are a perfect replacement for OEM shocks and sway bars.

Check out this video of some of the On Track testing we did with factory GM racer Johnny O'Connell to develop a perfectly matched set of shocks and sway bars:

 

OP,


Great advice above! I have a buddy that went the C6Z06 shocks and the disable path. He is very happy. I have a Z51 coupe running the C606 shocks and I love ride and better handling they have given my coupe. Metal endlinks on the sway bars helped too!


jussayn,,,,

 

Thanks for all the info everyone. Just went for a ride to Lowes and really concentrated on how far the car traveled over bumps before I would hear the thud. It doesn't travel very far. I think those stuffers are still there. About to find out in a few minutes....

 

Well, no shock stuffers.... So what could be causing the thud and rough ride? Could it be the run flats? Something loose? I'm at a lost. If the shocks still tighten up like intended when I put them in Sport mode, they shouldn't be bad should they?

 

Bump.

I did check for anything loose or broken and nothing jumped out at me. All bolts were tight. I did notice wear marks on the shocks, but that really doesnt mean anything I wouldn't think. I just don't know how to tell for sure if a shock is bad.

 

I too have the F55 suspension, and mine acts the same as yours. However, I do not believe it is an issue, just the nature of the beast. I think the tour mode is a little too soft, and the sport too harsh. From what I have read here and other places, about the only way these shocks go bad is if they start leaking. Again, I am no expert in the matter.

I have Hankooks, so I don't think the tires are part of the issue. Also, if the stuffers are in, you can't tell a difference in the two ride modes. Mine were in there is how I know.

 

I had it lifted up and was looking around and noticed the gap between the ends of my rear leaf springs and the A arms was pretty significant. So I tightened both ends up to about a half an inch gap, and the thud or clunk noise disappeared. Gonna look at the front this week and see if tightening it up helps the front as well. I hope that wasn't a bad thing to do...

 

I replaced my MSR ~8 months ago due to the same reasons listed here. IMHO when the shocks are worn out (i.e. no more damping) this is the behavior they will exhibit. I went with the Pfadt coilovers and I couldn't be happier for street and track use.

 

Thanks for the info Bluefire. Anyone have aany idea if tighting up the leaf spring will cause any un-intended damage?

 

There are no adjustments on the leaf springs.

 

Yes there is, at either end a bolt. That's how I was able to decrease the gaps.

 

So, 8VETTE7, Did I just lower my car by reducing the gap between the A-arm and the leaf spring in the rear? Thinking about it here at my desk, it seems like if I reduced the gap between the leaf and the A-arm, that would actually increase the ride height given that the leaf is under the A-arm. Am I right?

 

If they are bad they will be leaking a black graphite like fluid (magnetorheological fluid)from the top of the shock. You can find pricing from $450 to close to $1000 per unit. And yes you can replace them with other shocks including coil overs. I have 64000 miles on my 03 and I have replaced the fronts so far.

 

8VETTE7, that write up was exactly what i needed to see! I did some searching but never ran across that thread. So, by what is written, since I LESSENED the space on the REAR leaf spring and A-Arm, I am acually raising the rear. Good! That was what i was hoping for. I think it was to low and causing the thud or clank I was hearing. I didnt mess with the front, but plan to this weekend, so what I need to do is INCREASE the space with the front ones.

I think friday morning before I head out to do this, I am going to go over that thread again!

Thanks OneFast1 for the info!

 

As an owner for almost seven years now, I can attest to how tough the shock itself is. I got hit by a passenger/ City bus on my passengers side back in 2007, matter a fact it was 7/07/2007, and the bus hit me dead zero in my passengers door and my right rear wheel. I should say the bus was only going 5 MPH when he hit me. Of course the bus weights 37.458 pounds, but the wheel and the control arms as well as the caliber and the tire and wheel, which actually proved to more of a problem for www.countycorevtte.com who repaired my 2003 50th. Anniversary coupe and finding a rear 18 inch painted in the Champlain color.

But I also could see the damage but the two parts not affected were the leaf spring and the shocks. So I can assure you you'd see the leaking magnetic dark fluid if you parked on clean concrete. But once I went up and looked at the car, and one of the owners Jim S. who is just a fantastic friend and a walking Corvette encyclopedia.
They had the work done in three or four weeks and you could see the steel frame and the shocks and the differential and the spring were spotless. which is why I can tell you that a C5 frame are one tough characters. And the shock look like it was hit at all it didn't even have a scrap on it. So the RPOF55 option is a great system. I've only had to replace the module which was a little expensive, but having the Mag ride is well worth it.

So I think your shocks are OK, to boot, A lot of C5 Corvettes are pretty tough items. Good look and wave if you see me !