Hello everyone,

I had on another thread my spark plug issue. I successfully changed all spark plugs and wires but now a day later I have "reduced engine failure" showing up constantly. My voltage which is usually at 13 has dropped to 11 even though that battery is new.

Even over night the car keeps alerting me with "reduced engine failure" I am wondering if I might have touched something around my engine to cause this?

My car runs fine but this alert is driving me INSANE!!

 

11 volts is an issue. Get a voltmeter on things and see what the battery voltage is before you start it and then after you start. Did you get your spark plug thing sorted out?

 

Check the connections to the alternator and all electrical connections near any of the spark plugs that you worked on.

Give it a thorough once over - and clear any codes you have stored in the computer using the DIC - BUT write them down first!!!!! and let us know!

Thanks,Matt

 

Pull your codes and post them.

 

Hello thanks for your responses.

This morning I drove my car again. The charge error popped up after a few minutes of driving and my voltmeter dropped to 10 this time. The car drives fine but when I stopped my car this time it wont start. You can hear the starter turning over but nothing.

I did change my spark plugs and wires and I must have touched something that has my system going nuts. My car is a daily driver and I'm stranded. I financially cannot afford to take it to the mechanic at this time if I can avoid it. If there is a way I can fix this on my own I have to!

Thank you so much for all of your responses it means a lot to me to know there are generous people out there to help =).

AO-LDCM 5 CODES
B2208 H
B2282 H
B2286 H
B2284 H
U1064 H

A1-RDCM 4 CODES
B2283 H
B2287 H
B2285 H
U1064 H

28-TSC 1 CODES
C1236 H

80-RADIO NO COMM.

80-RADIO

 

AO-LDCM 5 CODES
B2208 H Right window down switch fault
B2282 H Battery #1 Fault
B2286 H +5V Referance Fault
B2284 H Battery #1 Fault
U1064 H Loss of Communications with BCM

A1-RDCM 4 CODES
B2283 H Battery #1 Fault
B2287 H +5V Reference Fault
B2285 H Battery #2 Fault
U1064 H Loss of Communication with BCM

28-TSC 1 CODES
C1236 H Low System Supply Voltage

80-RADIO NO COMM.

 

Thanks I did sort out the spark plug issue but I seemed to have caused another one ugh

 

Sounds like a poor connection and/or battery/alternator is on it's way out. Did you get a voltmeter on it or are you using the dash for voltage readings? Looks to me like the voltage regulator bought the farm.

 

Hello thanks I don't know how to use a voltmeter in this particular scenario. I have only used a voltmeter to check battery strength when i was a kid on my radio control planes lol.

I am going to check the connections with my battery and around the engine for anything loose. To be honest I have checked and it is hard for me to see what is loose when all the wires look like they are connected if that makes any sense.

 

Sounds like the Alternator is cooked to me. Once the Volts get below 12, it will create a lot of problems with the electrical system. Take it to a local Auto Zone or Advance Auto if you have one in your area and have them test the charging system. They do it for free.

 

Please check your starter solenoid electrical connections as this is where the alternator and battery come together.

 

Hey at least it doesn't say Complete Engine Failure
(I think the message you're seeing is Reduced Engine Power)

In all seriousness it sounds like the battery. On my 02 I had to replace the battery almost immediately after I bought the car(last November). All the annoying electrical problems went away after that.

 

Start looking at this post related to electrical on the C5 Curlee's Electrical post (FYI Bill is one of the retired bowling green factory people here on the forum.)

That reading of 11V on the gage, is that when the vehicle was running or engine off?

When the engine is running you are reading the output of the alternator, when the engine is off you are reading battery bus voltage.

If the engine was running and you were that low, you need to start looking at alternator output. Therefore as stated examine the connections to the alternator and where you were working.

From OM:
REDUCED ENGINE POWER: You will hear chimes continuously when this message is displayed. To acknowledge that you have read the message and to remove it from the display, press RESET.
The message will reappear every 15 seconds until this condition changes.
If the Driver Information Center (DIC) displays the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message and the CHECK ENGINE light comes on, a noticeable reduction in the vehicle’s performance may occur. If the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed but there is no reduction in performance, proceed to your destination. The performance may be reduced the next time the vehicle is driven.
The vehicle may be driven at a reduced speed while the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed, but acceleration and speed may be reduced. Anytime the CHECK ENGINE light stays on, the vehicle should be taken to an authorized Chevrolet dealer as soon as possible for diagnosis and repair.
Also, refer to “Malfunction Indicator Lamp”
(Check Engine Light) in the Index. If the REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed in combination with the COOLANT OVER TEMP message, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.

So if you hadn't looked that up yet that gives you the 411 on the message.

Now you got a charge notice.

From OM:

CHARGE SYSTEM FAULT: Press RESET to acknowledge that you have read the message and to remove it from the display. The message will reappear every 10 minutes until this condition changes. You will hear two chimes when this message is displayed.
If this message comes on while you are driving, you may have a problem with the electrical charging system. It could indicate that you have a loose or broken drive belt or another electrical problem. Have it checked right away. Driving while this light is on could drain your battery.
If you must drive a short distance with the message on, be certain to turn off your accessories, such as the radio and air conditioner.


The codes you have are indicative of a bus voltage issue.

You have a issue with a connection, a faulty alternator, or a faulty battery. Once you locate and fix the issue you should be fine afterwards. Be sure to clear the DTCs.

Hope that helps.

 

Ok I changed the battery so its new I got it for free as it was under warranty and that didn't help. AutoZone said alternator is good but another mechanic said AutoZone is wrong cause itlf alternator was good it would hold a charge. Sooo I am going to buy and change the alternator. U guys think I'm doing the right thing?

 

Before you throw parts at it, did you carefully go over all the connections?

I'd verify but I believe on electrical parts there is no refund.

BTW your battery should have a RC value of 120 (reserve capacity)

Here's a quick video on electrical on C5s

 

 

Hello everyone. So oddly enough after I switch out my spark plugs and wires my alternator decides to die. I went to AutoZone and got a LIFETIME WARRANTY! alternator for $179.00. I installed it myself and my car is now running without those issues anymore.

Oman now I only have a long list of non critical things I have to do with my car AC, clutch, muffler, oil leak, flip up light etc. But what is most important is that it is now running.

Once again thank you guys for your help and prompt responoses =)

 

Awesome. Glad she's up and running again. You gotta love this forum.

 

Cool that you have this car running again, but I have to ask, where in the world did you buy the car and how much did you pay for it?
I hope you got it for a song because it sounds like you are putting a car together from scratch.

 

Excellent I am glad it all got sorted out

Thanks,Matt