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It's a nice day in central Va so I drove the Z to work. I also want to say that I drove the car yesterday without issue. With that said while driving this morning the check engine light starts blinking fast and stops when I stop at a red light. So I continue and it sarts blinking again. This goes on until I get to work. I leave the car running to listen and I hear a slight rattle sound coming from the rear like an exhaust leak. I pop the hood and the engine sounds ok idling although it had a miss sound while driving slow. So @ lunch I'm gonna pull up the codes and see what they tell me.
Has anyone had this sort of thing happen before and what was the cause???
My car recently started doing this as well, but I don't have a rattling sound or anything. When I'm driving around at an rpm that's too low for whatever gear I'm in, the light will start to flash. Then when I'm stopped, or pick up speed to raise the rpm, the light will stop flashing. One of my buddies told me it has to do with my catalytic converters or something. But I'll have to find out for sure because it's freaking me out lol.
This happened to me not long ago. I was told the computer thinks the engine is misfiring (if it actually were, I'm guessing you'd be able to feel it). Know any good tuners in your area? They should be able to plug in their software and have you fixed up in no time.
I pulled the codes at lunch time and they have nothing to do with the way the car is running. 1st BCM-B2723H, 2nd A1RDCM-B2265H
I started it while out there and sounds like a misfire for sure. The car is an 02 and has 50k on the clock. Bought it used with 35k and as far as I know the plugs and wires had not been change. Until now the car has run strong without major problems.
Both of those codes end in H, so they're history codes, meaning they're no longer a problem. Do you have any mods, and have you ever gotten an aftermarket tune?
Yes,the car has a vararam CAI, the halteck screen, and Magnaflows axleback exhaust. It also has a Predator can tune which I recently took off. It's set at modified factory tune which allows me to turn off the skip shift and run my larger wheel sizes. 18/19
I took the tune out about 3 weeks ago because of the extra valve train noise. I was thinking that it advanced the timing too much. After detuning it it seemed to run fine until this morning. One of my freinds said I shuld try cleaning the MAF sensor to see if that helps. He also said it might have something to do with the CAI. Not sure yet.
I pulled the codes at lunch time and they have nothing to do with the way the car is running. 1st BCM-B2723H, 2nd A1RDCM-B2265H
I started it while out there and sounds like a misfire for sure. The car is an 02 and has 50k on the clock. Bought it used with 35k and as far as I know the plugs and wires had not been change. Until now the car has run strong without major problems.
Misfire code if P0300.
So I don't think that's your problem. Try clearing the codes and see what ones come back.
ajg1915 you are on it! After driving home I pullled the codes again and P0300 showed this time. The only thing different from this morning is that the engine light stayed on for a period of time before blinking again. It will go in for service in the morning.
A blinking check engine light typically means that damage is being done to the catalytic converters and you should avoid driving it until fixed (like raw fuel going thru the exhaust from a misfire). I'm thinking theres more codes related to a misfire.
ajg1915 you are on it! After driving home I pullled the codes again and P0300 showed this time. The only thing different from this morning is that the engine light stayed on for a period of time before blinking again. It will go in for service in the morning.
Good luck with the repairs. Hopefully it's something cheap like a bad spark plug, wire or coil. The other alternatives are usually mechanical and get much more expensive.
I just talked to the dealership. They said #5 cylinder is not firing. they found a bad wire there but the problem is still there.They also checked the coil pack and plug of course and said the engine was making a funny noise. they think it's a bad valvespring.So I wait as they pull the valve cover off to take a closer look.
I just talked to the dealership. They said #5 cylinder is not firing. they found a bad wire there but the problem is still there.They also checked the coil pack and plug of course and said the engine was making a funny noise. they think it's a bad valvespring.So I wait as they pull the valve cover off to take a closer look.
I pray that it's not a bad valve spring as that is typically the indication that the piston has collided with the valve. Depending on how bad the damage, it could mean a new or rebuild of the motor. Big $$$$
I pray that it's not a bad valve spring as that is typically the indication that the piston has collided with the valve. Depending on how bad the damage, it could mean a new or rebuild of the motor. Big $$$$
I pray that's not the case too. When I listened to the engine it didn't sound any different than it always did. It just shook because of the missfire. If the piston had been slapping the valve would it make more noise?
I pray that's not the case too. When I listened to the engine it didn't sound any different than it always did. It just shook because of the missfire. If the piston had been slapping the valve would it make more noise?
You could get lucky in that the valve did not drop all the way down. (i.e) the valve stem and or keepers are still in place. Not sure what year Z06 you have but there were a number 2002 Z06's that had valve spring problems.
Ok the verdit is in. I do have a bad valve spring. The retainer held,so the valve didn't drop.The car also has a bad wire on the same cylinder. They suggested I have all the springs replaced along with plugs and wires. I would like to upgrade springs,but my little budget allow it so I'm goin with the latest GM springs.
I just hope these are better than the first set. I read that later spring are an inprovement over earlier ones.