[Z06] Installing LG headers soon!!
#81
Instructor
Very nice car.
Just not feeling all that black.
Almost makes the car look dirty.
Could use some gloss black on the wheels, some tire shine, and I don't know about the exhaust tips as that is the color they turn when they haven't been washed.
To each their own though, can't wait to put some LG LT's on mine. Kudos for puttin some serious time into your ride.
Just not feeling all that black.
Almost makes the car look dirty.
Could use some gloss black on the wheels, some tire shine, and I don't know about the exhaust tips as that is the color they turn when they haven't been washed.
To each their own though, can't wait to put some LG LT's on mine. Kudos for puttin some serious time into your ride.
#82
Racer
Thread Starter
I kind of like how its "dirty." Its a drivers car. I think the black makes it look mean. The paint isn't perfect either (its tough to tell from the pics but…it needs a paint job). I kind of like it like that because of where I live. There is occasional dirt roads, coal trucks, a lot of road construction, etc…..If I had perfect paint and chrome, I'd have a heart attack every time I drove it. I want to have fun in it and have the z look tough in the process. I used to have an acura with custom black paint and chrome wheels. I spent more time cleaning it than driving it…..no fun if you ask me.
The exhaust was painted, by myself, high temp satin black. You don't see too many vettes with black exhaust. I thought it really brought the whole "blackout package" together. The little stainless was out of place beside all the other black. (notice I even changed the lug nuts to black)
I do, however, plan on some tpe flares and CCW LM20's with satin black centers, and gloss black lips in the near future. Between painting the flares, the wheels, and tires, Id be dropping like $5,500, so I have to enjoy the small mods for now lol
The exhaust was painted, by myself, high temp satin black. You don't see too many vettes with black exhaust. I thought it really brought the whole "blackout package" together. The little stainless was out of place beside all the other black. (notice I even changed the lug nuts to black)
I do, however, plan on some tpe flares and CCW LM20's with satin black centers, and gloss black lips in the near future. Between painting the flares, the wheels, and tires, Id be dropping like $5,500, so I have to enjoy the small mods for now lol
#84
Drifting
Did you install the headers from the top or from below? Im in the process of installing mine now (just got done removing the entire a.i.r. system) and it looks like the headers may drop in from the top pretty easily. Im doing it on jack stands like you did.
#85
Racer
Thread Starter
I did the drivers side from the bottom and the passenger side from the top. The passenger side slid right in. The vette must be at least 19-20 inches off the ground (use cribbing if you have to) to get the drivers side header in. Watch for the ground wire on the drivers side near the o2 sensor. I followed the instructions (on ls1howto.com: http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=29) pretty much to the "t" and it went smooth as a granddaddy's scalp
#87
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Belleville Mich.
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#88
Racer
Thread Starter
haha….no good tips for you on that. haha I spent like twenty minutes trying to get it in. You can't see the hole from under the car or above it. I had a buddy guide it down in while I had my finger on the hole. Just felt it until it was in and made sure it "popped" in and the o ring was good. Sorry I can't be of better help
#89
Le Mans Master
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Using a trouble light & one of these expandable wand mirrors, works quite well.
http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/h...t=100_0412.jpg
http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/h...t=100_0412.jpg
#91
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok fellas. I'm reviving this thread again. I have a couple questions for ya. This fall/winter I plan on doing some things to the ole Z to help somewhat quench my thirst for a little more power.
I'm on the fence if I want to do heads/intake/TB/cam. or just do a cam and valve springs, then maybe the next winter or something, do heads, intake manifold, throttle body, etc. I also want to do roller rockers in there somewhere (mainly for the fact of getting those needle bearings out of there that might cause a problem later and also for a little more effective valve train setup). Maybe an underdrive pulley too.
So…..What are your opinions on wether or not to do the cam and heads, or just the cam (for now). The money may not be all there to do a really good set of heads this winter, plus, it'll give me something to look forward to doing, say, the following winter…
I understand I'll probably be needing to do a clutch now as well. A couple small things I'd like to do too, are electric cutouts and either 3.90 or 4.10 gears.
Here is what I realistically want to do "now":
- england green whiplash II or chaos II cam and of course everything that goes along with that like ported oil pump, timing chain etc…(I dont know the lift specs on these cams though)
- PSI 512ML dual valve springs
- New pushrods (help on brand?)
- hydraulic roller lifters (brand?)
- yella terra or harland sharp roller rockers (1.7 or 1.8 though?)
- underdrive pulley (what % pulley?)
- Clutch (single? dual disc? ceramic? iron? organic?)
- 4.10 (or 3.90?) gears
- cutouts
- ECS dyno tune
- gona be needing some new rubber at this point too. I'm thinkin Mickey Thompson e.t. streets. Would you recommend Nitto nt05's if I plan on possible doing some autocrossing? or would the mickey's be fine?
Then I'm thinking, later:
- afr 68cc heads
- fast 102, fast fuel rails, 102 TB
- ARP head studs
If you don't mind, please let me know your thoughts on all of this. Thank you!
I'm on the fence if I want to do heads/intake/TB/cam. or just do a cam and valve springs, then maybe the next winter or something, do heads, intake manifold, throttle body, etc. I also want to do roller rockers in there somewhere (mainly for the fact of getting those needle bearings out of there that might cause a problem later and also for a little more effective valve train setup). Maybe an underdrive pulley too.
So…..What are your opinions on wether or not to do the cam and heads, or just the cam (for now). The money may not be all there to do a really good set of heads this winter, plus, it'll give me something to look forward to doing, say, the following winter…
I understand I'll probably be needing to do a clutch now as well. A couple small things I'd like to do too, are electric cutouts and either 3.90 or 4.10 gears.
Here is what I realistically want to do "now":
- england green whiplash II or chaos II cam and of course everything that goes along with that like ported oil pump, timing chain etc…(I dont know the lift specs on these cams though)
- PSI 512ML dual valve springs
- New pushrods (help on brand?)
- hydraulic roller lifters (brand?)
- yella terra or harland sharp roller rockers (1.7 or 1.8 though?)
- underdrive pulley (what % pulley?)
- Clutch (single? dual disc? ceramic? iron? organic?)
- 4.10 (or 3.90?) gears
- cutouts
- ECS dyno tune
- gona be needing some new rubber at this point too. I'm thinkin Mickey Thompson e.t. streets. Would you recommend Nitto nt05's if I plan on possible doing some autocrossing? or would the mickey's be fine?
Then I'm thinking, later:
- afr 68cc heads
- fast 102, fast fuel rails, 102 TB
- ARP head studs
If you don't mind, please let me know your thoughts on all of this. Thank you!
#92
Drifting
In my opinion, you're doing things that will require different tunes so I would save it being that you want a dyno tune. Dyno tunes for heads/cam will run you $450+ each.
I think with heads/cam, just get it done and over with at once.
And if you do a clutch, may as well do a remote bleeder for the clutch. Make sure to factor in replacement of all the clutch hydraulics, no sense in tearing all that stuff down and not replacing it.
Would also be a good time to do a tunnel plate.
And while you have the trans dropped, may as well do the torque tube couplers as well.
And when you do the clutch assembly, definitely go with ARP bolts.
A factory shop manual will guide you step by step through the process. Make sure to have a good torque wrench.
I think with heads/cam, just get it done and over with at once.
And if you do a clutch, may as well do a remote bleeder for the clutch. Make sure to factor in replacement of all the clutch hydraulics, no sense in tearing all that stuff down and not replacing it.
Would also be a good time to do a tunnel plate.
And while you have the trans dropped, may as well do the torque tube couplers as well.
And when you do the clutch assembly, definitely go with ARP bolts.
A factory shop manual will guide you step by step through the process. Make sure to have a good torque wrench.
#93
Racer
Thread Starter
I forgot about the remote bleeder and I'm thinking I should look into a Tick master eh? Are the 1.8 ratio rockers a direct replacement? Which clutch should I be looking at for say having 450-500 rwhp? (with more possible later down the road)