With DIC displaying % until next oil change and the ignition in the ON position (engine not running) press and hold the the Reset button. You will get 1 beep and the % number will reset to 100%

I have the same headers, waiting for my lazy *** to install. I already have a 224/228 XE-R\XE Comp Cam installed. Just need to get motivated and do the headers.

FYI: I am using the PAC 1518 Nitrided Beehive valve springs. 30K on them with no problems. I will use the same when replacing. Below are the specs, I wanted a single spring, ovate, beehive and the .650 lift spec is substantially over my .588 lift.

Premium Nitrided Beehive LS1 Spring
OD: 1.290"
130 lbs @ 1.800"
337 lbs @ 1.150"
Lift: 0.650"

Keep us informed of your progress...

 

Thanks a lot man. Short and sweet. You sound like you've got a sweet setup yourself. I will definitely continue to update this thread with my progress. I think it will be neat to look back on it later... The psi ls1511 max life springs I'm going with seem to be a good safety precaution, last longer, are docile enough to run with stock cam and are still good to .630 lift (single beehive spring style), and have an extremely low failure rate (cross fingers... Haha)

 

I wanted to ask you guys too…..I've been reading a bunch of stuff about tire pressures. I'm currently thinking 28 psi (cold) at all four corners. I want even wear with maximum surface contact. My tires again are F: 275/40R/17 and R: 305/35R/18 NITTO NT555R's. Thanks a lot men.

 

I installed my iSimple for my iPod today. Easy as pie to do. My cd player was acting up, so now I've got some tunes for the long rides (short trips…..exhaust=music). Any help on the tire pressures though? Also. When I put the 305's on the rear, they just barely rub the brake cooling duct….You guys running 305's have to secure the duct away from the tire somehow? let it rub and say f#$% it? Will the rear tire move back to the rear of the car once I set it down and get weight on it? Thanks guys.

btw: I ordered the proform valve tool from competition speed (cpspeed.com) like two weeks ago. I still haven't got it. I've contacted them, but to no avail. That is all I am waiting on before I can finish the build.

 

When using the air compressor to hold the valves up, how do you release the pressure once the new springs retainers and locks are in? inline valve setup? something else?

What PSI should I fill the cylinder with? LS1howto.com says "60-80 psi." That seems like a big grey area……should I do 60 pounds, 70 pounds?

Thanks very much!

 

I normally just run about 30 psi... as far as releasing the pressure... I just un-connect the line from my compressor... a little noisy, no big deal.

BTW, once you have a cylinder pressurized and the spring compressed don't by surprised if the locks and retainer are stuck in position. I took a shop towel, laid it across the top of the spring\valve and popped it with a rub mallet. It is VERY helpful to have a pen-magnet handy.... to grab the locks... the whole process takes a little finesse but after you do 2 or 3 valves you will have the hang of it...

 

Thanks a lot pipe. Just 30psi eh? Wonder why they said 60 on that DIY? I'll be pressing new seals on the valves too,... That extra force on em maybe make me use a little higher psi like 40? Too much pressure is bad for the piston rings right? Thanks again

 

Honestly, I would not worry about too high a pressure... you do not pressurize the cylinder for that long... takes me an hour and half to change all mine....

 

I'm debating painting my exhaust tips with high temp "stove paint" and tinting my tails lightly with nightshades spray. What do you guys think. I'm pretty convinced on the exhaust paint, but I don't know if I should mess with the classic rear end of vette and it's red taillights....any one have pictures or opinions that might help convince me? Thanks gents

 

well since you have a black and yellow scheme going on, imo id black the tail lights, but not to dark.

 

you have way too many threads within a thread going on here.

 

Im trying to multitask haha

 

First place boned me on the valve tool so I air mailed a new one from summit to me. Should have er Friday..... Then she'll come alive

 

I know you're past this point now, but if you're ever into this type of project again I'd strongly suggest covering/taping the intake ports so that nothing inadvertently falls in. Just my $.02....

 

Thanks man. I had em covered for the most part. I uncovered em to show before/after dirty/clean and to clean the area up. Good lookin out.

 

Teaser before the install. Tool came into today….so its going down tomorrow:

 

The LG's are in!!!

I did the valve springs yesterday, and the headers and xpipe today. Overall, it was pretty easy. I didn't have any problems to speak of.

I still need to figure out the o2 sensor thing. I think I just need to extend the front ones. The port in the LG's is further back from the plug than when the stock manifolds were in so the wires will not reach.

I just have to do an oil change and retorque the header bolts and I'll be good to roll. Im also tinting the tails as we speak, so I wont let the thread die just yet haha

Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate it.

For your eyes only:

Old springs with rockers and pedestal off:

This tool was prime. I would highly recommend it (Proform LS tool). Very easy to use:

New PSI springs are in. Did new seals and locks too:

Headers are in:

New plugs, wires, heat socks. Intake, TB, coil packs, etc….are all back together.



Hope the vids work (sorry for some of the talking in em…):
BEFORE:
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AFTER:
[IMG][/IMG]

As you can see though……my lights are NOT fixed. I have no idea whats going on. Is it a security thing? When I turn the key to the on/accessory position, they start going crazy….flashing and dimming….I can hear a clicking sound coming from the glove box/rear engine bay (relay maybe?) I don't see any blown fuses either and when I turn the headlights on, they stop flashing BUT the turn signals won't work (kinda flicker when on). They start flashing again once the headlights are off. Please help me get this sorted out!!!! My Z seems possessed!

 

very nice progress man. Damn i wish i can help you on the damn light flashing problem,maybe look for a auto electrical mechanic. Cheers for almost completing the project.

 

I did more research last night, and I believe it's called "hyperflash". Jwmotoring.com has a harness that eliminates it. (......hopefully). I'm waiting for ecs to get back to me about the o2 sensors. I may be able to eliminate the rear set

 

LG may still sell adapters that allow you to use a set of the rear sensors in the front O2 bungs.

The hyper flash occurs with the use of LED lights for brake or turn signal, are you using any?