This is how it starts.

Decide what you have money for and what you want the car to do and do it all at once. If you continue down this road you'll end up with a forged, blown 454 and funny car tires on the back.

My $.02 on your current build, things to do regardless in order of priority from high to low:

-Heat wrap the headers if they're not coated. (I don't think they are.) This will save you alot of headaches with underhood heating issues. It should be around $50 for enough header wrap and strapping to do them. It's basically impossible to do once the headers are on the car.

-Get a heat shield blanket for the starter or it will cook from the heat of the headers. Also, impossible to do with headers on. These are available pre-sized for the LS starters.

-Do the valve springs while you're in there. Fresh, stock springs should be fine with stock cam. Buy/borrow/steal the spring compressor tool and air fittings. You're going to need it if you ever do a cam anyway.

PS- You can smoke a Cobra without doing a cam. The headers/intake/tune are more than enough. If you can drive, you could have smoked him bone stock. The bone-stock C5Z record is 11.9ish...

 

I will definitely look into heat wrapping. New heads, and I wouldn't need a compressor…. BTW the Cobra is Whipple-charged pushing 650 or more HP….we haven't raced yet either (haven't been able to find a "closed course" yet haha)

 

If you have the money, I would go ahead and do the cam/springs now. For one, you're going to need a tune after the LTs are on...and after a new cam is in. Unless you have some kind of hook up, that's around $400 for each time it's tuned. Might as well save $400 and only get it tuned once, after doing the LTs and cam together. Just my 2 cents.

Also, you're talking about beating a 650hp car with a 400ish hp car? I won't say it's impossible, but you're not in his league. That is a lot to make up for.

 

I think im gona put the cam on the back burner for now. I am going to do springs though. Looking for opinions…PSI 1511 Max Life OR PAC 1518??

Updates (couldnt do a whole bunch because I am still waiting on the header gaskets):

Cleaned up the motor a little:


Took the PCM out to send to the fellas at ECS:

 

also, what valve spring compressor tool is "the best?" I want a good one that I can even use on the rear cylinders with no clearance issues.

Perhaps this one from Crane?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-99472-1/?rtype=10

Thanks for the help guys

 

Just got these (PSI LS1511 ML springs):

http://www.cvproducts.com/Products/PSILS1511ML.aspx

And picked up the Proform LS spring compressor tool as well

I'm thinking about picking up some new rotors and pads as well. When I took the wheels off to swap the tires, the rotors looked and felt kinda bad (though theres no wobbling or squeeling under braking). I'm thinking about this stuff:

Giro Disc 2 piece rotors OR some AFX 2 piece rotors (slotted not drilled)

I can't decide between these two sets of brake pads.

The Carbotech Bobcats 1521:

http://www.knsbrakes.com/carSeriesDe...0Bobcat%201521

OR

The Ferodo DS2500's:

http://www.knsbrakes.com/carSeriesDe...%20Brake%20Pad

What do you guys think? Suggestions?

Do you guys think the Pfadt tranny brace really does help driveline longevity/performance? I'm thinking about picking one of these up too

 

Got my header gaskets today, but no valve springs yet. I'm gona do the air compressor method to hold the valves up, so I'm gona wait to put the headers on until I do the springs.

I changed the diff and clutch fluid (all Amsoil thanks to Brad! [Subdriver]), installed the oil pressure sensor, cleaned up the intake manifold and coil packs:

 

After I changed the clutch fluid yesterday. I did the thirty pumps with the clutch, an the clutch was squeaking..... Did I do something wrong? Does the motor have to be on or something? I'm worried now. All I did was: took out the old fluid, cleaned the reservoir, filled it the "step" with new amsoil fluid, put the top on, and started pumping the clutch..... Anyone want to reassure me that everything is still fine please? Thank you

 

When you're pumping the clutch like that to change fluid, it's normal.

 

The squeaking is probably the clutch assist spring in the car, its literally a spring on the clutch pedal. Alot of people remove it.

 

phewww…..thanks guys for easing my mind. I thought I may have got air into the system…have to bleed clutch/change clutch…somethin…..I was worried. I didn't figure the ranger method fluid swap could do that kind of damage so I was kinda panicking. Thanks again. As soon as my darn valve springs get here, it shouldn't be that long before a start up video

If I do a couple heat cycles like warming up the car and maybe holding it at say 2000 rpm then letting it cool down and repeat like 3-4 times, do you guys think that'd be good enough to then rev the car "pretty good."? (breaking in the springs) I know free revving isn't the best, but for a video and short drive or something….

I figure too, after those couple heat cycles, I'll check out the header bolts again, etc…

Its comin along guys…stay with me on this if ya want

 

Got the front tires today. Still waiting on the valve springs and the brakes

 

Really nice man! will keep an eye on this thread.

 

thanks man I sent out the computer to ECS the other day too. Can't wait to get this thing back on her feet again. I can't wait to see the end result of "my little build." It's funny how doing your own work (even stuff as small as I'm doing) makes you appreciate and enjoy the Z even that much more

 

Thats great! hopefully when its all said and done she'll run great! cheers

 

Anyone have experience with Performance AFX rotors? I mounted the two piece rotors last night and when I spun them by hand, the bolts on the rotors hat rubbed the inside part of the outer caliper mounting braket part. I'm thinking I have to grind the braket, but maybe I won't have to once I put the wheel on and torque it down..... Any input is very welcome. They said they were direct replacement so I don't know. Thanks gents

 

Well, I figured out the rotors. I had to shave the caliper mounting bracket. These AFX rotors are awesome. Quality, as I've never seen it.

Got the rotors (AFX Performance 2-pce with aluminum Coleman hats and slotted rotors):


Carbotech Bobcat 1521 pads for front and rear:

Stock rotors are off:

Front DS before:

Front DS after:

With the wheel on:

One of the rear:

With the wheel:


Also installed the intake manifold with new gaskets, hooked up the brake booster, etc…:


All in all, in the last two days: Installed the intake manifold, installed rotors and pads, cleaned wheel wells/calipers/wheels/tires, installed computer (with ECS tune uploaded!), fixed pass side front scoop mesh and reverse light (I hope this fixes the blinking light problem…..I really hope it does….)

 

It looks like its coming along nicely!

 

Thanks man. I'm stoaked to get her running again. Just need that LS valve spring tool, and she'll be purring again….

 

You guys know how to reset the oil change monitor after an oil change w/o startin the vette? Thanks