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So I am curious and would like to hear if anyones on the forum has some modifications or tricks for smoother easier shifting.
I have a 48,000mi. 03 Z06 with the following driveline upgrades: Textralia OZ700 puck style clutch, fly wheel, TO Bearing, Slave cyl upgrade and a Hurst Short Throw Shifter.
So shifting into gear requires a bit of strength (not a strong arm just more push than I think should be needed) 1st to 2nd is notchy and hitting 3rd is not a gaurantee, I have missed once.
5th and 6th are diffacult to get over and engage and I dont reverse should be that hard at all..
Is this typical of a HURST? Are there any mods that can be made to the shifter to make it smoother?
Will a detent spacer ake any diffeence?
Basically I want a smooth accurate shifter that even my wife could get into and drive.
I drove a friends 03 Z once and it had a Kirban Qwik, hot knife through butter with a confirming click when in gear is accurate for that car when it came to shifting.
If it still doesn't feel good, then you should try re-aligning the shifter.
Thanks guys.
Yeah I think I will both of these, Hurst has been around for so long I would hate to think it is a POS. I think I will also do a fluid change the same day.
Increased shifting effort is a drawback of ALL aftermarket shifters. Only oem style shifters have will help in this case (RSD, TPS, C6-Z06 are oem style)
Increased shifting effort is a drawback of ALL aftermarket shifters. Only oem style shifters have will help in this case (RSD, TPS, C6-Z06 are oem style)
I would completly agree but the Z06 I drove with the Kirban was smooth. Weird smooth. Like frech shaved legs smooth.
I would completly agree but the Z06 I drove with the Kirban was smooth. Weird smooth. Like frech shaved legs smooth:
Was the Kirban installed on a rebuilt/aftermarket trans? I think that makes all the difference. I drove a C6Z with a built T6060 and MGW shifter - butter smooth shifting compared to my oem T56/MGW combo
I had a Hurst. I always felt it was stiff, even with the lightest springs. After sustaining an injury to my right arm, it was impossible to use without using my left hand to assist pushing it to the right. I had to reinstall the stock shifter which I cut down and rethreaded first. That is what I use now. When I reinstalled it, I realized how stiff the Hurst was. It's not your imagination. I haven't addressed a new shifter at this time but many people seem to like the modded C6 Z06 shifter. BTW, I've already done the anti-venom mod (makes a nice difference) and I use Royal Purple trans fluid. Also, when I called Hurst because my shifter buzzed at specific highway speeds, I wanted to know about repairing it. The engineer I spoke to said there was nothing I could do about it and blew me off.
I have a MGW on a RPM level 5 M12 (with goodies) and would love less notchy. However I would like to know what causes the easier shifting with the antivenom mod? I ran through the page of how to do it but why does it work.
I have a MGW on a RPM level 5 M12 (with goodies) and would love less notchy. However I would like to know what causes the easier shifting with the antivenom mod? I ran through the page of how to do it but why does it work.
It pulls the ball detent a hair farther, this puts a little bit less pre-load pressure on the spring inside, making it less of a noticeable detent. It's like if you pulled your clicky-pen apart and cut a couple of coils off. The pen would click much easier, though it could potentially click too easily.
Thanks guys.
Yeah I think I will both of these, Hurst has been around for so long I would hate to think it is a POS. I think I will also do a fluid change the same day.
Hursts are very difficult to shift. May want to go back to stock
Realign the forks, change to synthetic trans and diff fluid.
When the shift leaver is installed and aligned properly you should be able to shift with two fingers and no hard effort.