Replacing speakers
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Instructor
Joined: May 2012
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Replacing speakers
I am replacing speakers, the back ones I know just pry off the grill but the front ones, I am changing the 3.5 not the woofer, is only access is to take off the door panel or can they be ptired off like the back speakers.Thanks
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
HTH
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Instructor
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Thanks, I thought that, understand two screws behind door pull and then just pop out, do you know how many contacts that I need to pop the panel from....Thanks
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Wrong. You must also carefully release the door handle trim ring. There are 4 tabs and you WILL break one if you get too hamfisted. A small flat blade and some judicious prying and you should get it off. Take your time.
If by "contacts" you mean retaining pins, I don't recall the exact number, though IIRC I would say about 5, maybe 6 per door. They are white plastic pins and the "male" portion is attached to the door panel and the "female" receptacles are attached to the door itself. Use a small non-marring tool like a putty knife (with tape over the blade) and start at the bottom rear corner. With your fingers try to pry open far enough to get your fingers into the crack and SHARPLY yank the door panel away from the door a short distance. Once free, lift up panel first (about 1/2" or so) then off the door. Note: the male pins can easily break so be careful with them, especially when re-attaching the door panel.
If by "contacts" you mean retaining pins, I don't recall the exact number, though IIRC I would say about 5, maybe 6 per door. They are white plastic pins and the "male" portion is attached to the door panel and the "female" receptacles are attached to the door itself. Use a small non-marring tool like a putty knife (with tape over the blade) and start at the bottom rear corner. With your fingers try to pry open far enough to get your fingers into the crack and SHARPLY yank the door panel away from the door a short distance. Once free, lift up panel first (about 1/2" or so) then off the door. Note: the male pins can easily break so be careful with them, especially when re-attaching the door panel.
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
It would be wise to get an extra couple male pins beforehand. The newer (later) versions have a rubber cushion ring on them. They are a better design. The "head" just twists into a slot on the door panel.
Go to the auction site and/or Google C5 Corvette door pins. Did I mention they break easily?
Go to the auction site and/or Google C5 Corvette door pins. Did I mention they break easily?
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Thread Starter
Instructor
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Door panel removal
Well I just took off the drivers side door panel, it was to easy so I am having some doubts if the previous owner did something to it!! I removed the tab behind the handle and the tab came right out but it has a bunch of sticky substance(like glue) is this normal? I removed the two screws than slowly undid the pins. Came off just fine, but the clip to wires to the door I could not unplug. But still have enough room to remove speaker and replace. Anyway, do any of you guys have this glue substance on tab behind the handle?
Race Director
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From: oregon
make sure you look at the polarity of the speakers you install. the bose uses + as the small terminal and every aftermarket has - as the small side.
you typically have to cut the factory spade connectors and solder the wires to your new speakers.
if you just hook them up as they fit your 3.5's will be 180 out of phase
also worth buying some protecto wrap at home depot and or dynamat for the install. the aftermarket 3.5s line up but don't seal the flange very well. a little sticky tar wrap fixes any rattles and gives you a nice seal.
i also used dynamat on my door pannels and it really cut down the bass rattles
you typically have to cut the factory spade connectors and solder the wires to your new speakers.
if you just hook them up as they fit your 3.5's will be 180 out of phase
also worth buying some protecto wrap at home depot and or dynamat for the install. the aftermarket 3.5s line up but don't seal the flange very well. a little sticky tar wrap fixes any rattles and gives you a nice seal.
i also used dynamat on my door pannels and it really cut down the bass rattles
Team Owner
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From: Somewhere in Mo
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '14
Get a tool that helps you pry off the tabs or you'll break some. Even so I second getting some extras because you will most likely break some or find some broken. It's also very easy to break the plastic on the door panel that holds the tabs.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
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make sure you look at the polarity of the speakers you install. the bose uses + as the small terminal and every aftermarket has - as the small side.
you typically have to cut the factory spade connectors and solder the wires to your new speakers.
if you just hook them up as they fit your 3.5's will be 180 out of phase
also worth buying some protecto wrap at home depot and or dynamat for the install. the aftermarket 3.5s line up but don't seal the flange very well. a little sticky tar wrap fixes any rattles and gives you a nice seal.
i also used dynamat on my door pannels and it really cut down the bass rattles
you typically have to cut the factory spade connectors and solder the wires to your new speakers.
if you just hook them up as they fit your 3.5's will be 180 out of phase
also worth buying some protecto wrap at home depot and or dynamat for the install. the aftermarket 3.5s line up but don't seal the flange very well. a little sticky tar wrap fixes any rattles and gives you a nice seal.
i also used dynamat on my door pannels and it really cut down the bass rattles
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Melbourne FL
Well I just took off the drivers side door panel, it was to easy so I am having some doubts if the previous owner did something to it!! I removed the tab behind the handle and the tab came right out but it has a bunch of sticky substance(like glue) is this normal? I removed the two screws than slowly undid the pins. Came off just fine, but the clip to wires to the door I could not unplug. But still have enough room to remove speaker and replace. Anyway, do any of you guys have this glue substance on tab behind the handle?
Team Owner
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From: Somewhere in Mo
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '14
No, there shouldn't be any glue substance there. Those pieces have 5 small tabs on them to hold them in place that routinely break off. I'd bet the previous owner used some sort of glue to hold them in place after the tabs broke off. The part is relatively cheap but plan on it breaking again in the future.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2012
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No, there shouldn't be any glue substance there. Those pieces have 5 small tabs on them to hold them in place that routinely break off. I'd bet the previous owner used some sort of glue to hold them in place after the tabs broke off. The part is relatively cheap but plan on it breaking again in the future.
Thanks,mine had 4 tabs on it, must have broke in the past, do you know what they are called and where can I order some?
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Double-sided tape works better. The tabs on those break easily. Even if I was putting an unbroken one back on, I would still use double-sided tape on the backside. If unbroken, there should be 7 tabs total on the back.
Oh, btw. To pop out the driver's window switch panel, use a small flat blade under the bottom (rearward) edge and pry up, then pull switch rearward and then out. The front edge "hooks" in.
On the passenger door, pry up from the top edge first.
Team Owner
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From: Somewhere in Mo
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '14
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16