Euro tail lights problem
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 20,030
Likes: 289
From: Wylie TX --> Less is More, except under the hood !
I think the cutting of the wires on the back is your problem. I ran euros with the harness and only had to cut the white wire under the dash. Everything else was plug and play. Try crimping those wires back together and see what happens.
Words to the wise for anyone considering this. Leave enough room underneath the dash when you cut the wire, meaning cut it in the middle and not near the top of the harness switch. This leaves you enough wire to work with on both ends when (if) you ever want to rewire or crimp it back together like I did when I upgraded to LED halos.
Words to the wise for anyone considering this. Leave enough room underneath the dash when you cut the wire, meaning cut it in the middle and not near the top of the harness switch. This leaves you enough wire to work with on both ends when (if) you ever want to rewire or crimp it back together like I did when I upgraded to LED halos.
Same here.... I only cut white wire under dash, and cut it in the middle so I could go back to stock easily if I wanted to ..
Toque
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 368,319
Likes: 24,777
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '25
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
I think the cutting of the wires on the back is your problem. I ran euros with the harness and only had to cut the white wire under the dash. Everything else was plug and play. Try crimping those wires back together and see what happens.
Words to the wise for anyone considering this. Leave enough room underneath the dash when you cut the wire, meaning cut it in the middle and not near the top of the harness switch. This leaves you enough wire to work with on both ends when (if) you ever want to rewire or crimp it back together like I did when I upgraded to LED halos.
Words to the wise for anyone considering this. Leave enough room underneath the dash when you cut the wire, meaning cut it in the middle and not near the top of the harness switch. This leaves you enough wire to work with on both ends when (if) you ever want to rewire or crimp it back together like I did when I upgraded to LED halos.
When I had my '00 all I had to do was install a new harness on the back of the car and clip the white wire under the dash.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 666
Likes: 2
From: western springs illinois
You guys must have bought the better kit than the previous owner of my 03 did!!!
But now everything works. So if there's another problem I'm thinking emergency flasher switch. And I see there is a way to get at it without dash or center console removal
But now everything works. So if there's another problem I'm thinking emergency flasher switch. And I see there is a way to get at it without dash or center console removal
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,699
Likes: 147
I'm glad to see you got your problem fixed.
Perhaps one of the other gentlemen can answer my question.
I got a set of amber euro tails with a used harness.
It looks like a huge pain and effort to try and install plus reflashing to the euro configuration but I had a thought to make it very simple.
If I disconnect the wire from the brake light switch and then run a separate circiut off it out to the back I can have the signals yellow by moving the wires that run to the double filament bulb and flash to a single filament bulb that goes in the yellow lens part.
Then I replace the wire I moved with my new wire off the brake light switch.
That way the park and brake lights would work as normal and only the signals would flash yellow.
Is the brake light switch up under the cowl?
Am I correct here making this much simpler to do?
Would disconnecting the brake light wire throw any body codes?
Perhaps one of the other gentlemen can answer my question.
I got a set of amber euro tails with a used harness.
It looks like a huge pain and effort to try and install plus reflashing to the euro configuration but I had a thought to make it very simple.
If I disconnect the wire from the brake light switch and then run a separate circiut off it out to the back I can have the signals yellow by moving the wires that run to the double filament bulb and flash to a single filament bulb that goes in the yellow lens part.
Then I replace the wire I moved with my new wire off the brake light switch.
That way the park and brake lights would work as normal and only the signals would flash yellow.
Is the brake light switch up under the cowl?
Am I correct here making this much simpler to do?
Would disconnecting the brake light wire throw any body codes?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,699
Likes: 147
The seller told me disconnecting the brake wire will not throw a code so running a second circuit just for the brake light will work.
I'll let you know how it works out when I do this on the weekend while I have the cluster out to put the silver gauge rings in.
This will make putting these euro tail lights in pretty easy just running a wire to the back for a third circuit off the brake pedal, adding 4 single filament bulbs and moving the wires for the signals plus it retains the hazard flashers etc etc....
A lot less trouble than the dogs breakfast euro harness which is really not even needed to make this work.
I'll let you know how it works out when I do this on the weekend while I have the cluster out to put the silver gauge rings in.
This will make putting these euro tail lights in pretty easy just running a wire to the back for a third circuit off the brake pedal, adding 4 single filament bulbs and moving the wires for the signals plus it retains the hazard flashers etc etc....
A lot less trouble than the dogs breakfast euro harness which is really not even needed to make this work.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,699
Likes: 147
There's more than one way to do something.
Just because this is how GM did it for europe does not make it the easiest way to do this.
The harness that came with this is hacked and spliced and too complicated and it's a lot less work and a no brainer to run a new wire plus no reflashing.
Remember the KISS rule.
It will take no time at all to do it this way.
Think outside the box.
Last edited by StrangelovesM6Vert; Aug 2, 2013 at 07:44 AM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,699
Likes: 147
I'm not here to annoy anyone or waste their time.
I don't even know where to start with this used harness other than to salvage the single sockets off it.
I'm just offering up what I think is a simple solution to the euro lights 3 circuit problem that doesn't require a different harness or tune, is easy to do and I'm kind of surprised no one has thought of or posted (as far as I know) before.
With this knowledge to do the euro lights working all you need is the 4 tails, 4 single sockets, 1 wire from the brake pedal switch to the back and some easy modification to route the signal wires from the 2 bulb sockets to the amber signals.
Then hook the wire from the pedal parallel to all 4 of the sockets the signal wires were moved from and you have your brake lights.
Last edited by StrangelovesM6Vert; Aug 2, 2013 at 07:12 PM.