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My Clutch Flush Solution

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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 09:40 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by FLZapped
You are completely wrong. The tubing outside diameter is smaller than the inside diameter of the clutch assembly tube. It slides down just fine. Others have done it too, just do a search. This is just my collection of parts to accomplish what others have already done. Hello.....
I change my fluid ofter with the turkey baster and the orifice at the bottom of my master will NO WAY allow the tubing your showing to be passed thru it.. Not sure what your doing but like others said, a picture is worth a thousand words.

Last edited by 3boystoys; Aug 29, 2013 at 11:39 AM.
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 11:34 AM
  #42  
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I would be interested in know how many inches the tube is pushed into line. This may start to address where it ends up.

Like many more of us, I'm in for the pictures.
rr
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 11:02 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 3boystoys
I change my fluid ofter with the turkey baster and the orifice at the bottom of my master will NO WAY allow the tubing your showing to be passed thru it.. Not sure what your doing but like others said, a picture is worth a thousand words.

You don't know what I'm doing, yet call me a liar even though I've done it and you haven't....brilliant.

Since you cannot apparently do a search to find out this has been done by others, here is the thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...er-method.html

Last edited by FLZapped; Aug 29, 2013 at 11:06 PM.
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 03:03 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by FLZapped
You are completely wrong. The tubing outside diameter is smaller than the inside diameter of the clutch assembly tube. It slides down just fine. Others have done it too, just do a search. This is just my collection of parts to accomplish what others have already done. Hello.....
I completely understand what you did but as I said at best you're just putting new fluid in the reservoir and hose connecting it to the clutch master... if you can fish that small plastic tubing through the clutch master, down the clutch line through the quick disconnect and all the way to to slave then you are god's mechanic and we no longer need remote bleeders
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 09:41 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by FLZapped
You don't know what I'm doing, yet call me a liar even though I've done it and you haven't....brilliant.

Since you cannot apparently do a search to find out this has been done by others, here is the thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...er-method.html
AND, AGAIN there are no pics of the "MAGIC" there either. I found that before and it's about as useless as your ramblings.
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Old Sep 2, 2013 | 03:46 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 3boystoys
I change my fluid ofter with the turkey baster and the orifice at the bottom of my master will NO WAY allow the tubing your showing to be passed thru it.. Not sure what your doing but like others said, a picture is worth a thousand words.
Instead of being a jerk and saying something before you try it, go to the store and spend the $4 for the tubing and see if it fitsalso go to the dollar store and buy the injector for a buck

I've used this method and it works perfectlyjust keep removing the dirty fluid(from the reservoir with a turkey baster) while replacing with new after 5 or 6 times it is clear.
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Old Sep 2, 2013 | 03:57 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by FLZapped
...... this has been done by others, here is the thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...er-method.html
That thread shows quite a few that have used it with good results. It puts clean fluid much closer to the slave and pushes out the dirty fluid in the line between the slave and the master. Working the clutch only pulses the fluid in and out without a flow to the reservoir. Without a flow there is only a little migration of the dirty fluid. This method actually flushes the line and should be more effective than using the clutch repeatedly.

Thanks for posting this method. I will give it a try.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 08:47 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 3boystoys
AND, AGAIN there are no pics of the "MAGIC" there either. I found that before and it's about as useless as your ramblings.

You might be surprised to find out that I don't live my life for your pleasure and could give a rats *** less if you like what I post or not.

Here is a little exercise that might help. Take your hands, extend them out in front of you, palms up and open. Now in a circular motion, move them to a position behind you. Now move them forward so they contact their respective butt cheek and grab on tightly.

Now that you have your *** in your hands, drag it over to Autozone, buy just the tubing, take it home and try it. If it fits, then you can buy the other part, if it doesn't, either you're out a couple bucks for the tubing, or you'll find another use for it. Or are you too damned afraid to admit you're wrong?

Tubing at Autozone

$4.99 at my local store.....

Last edited by FLZapped; Sep 3, 2013 at 08:55 AM. Reason: additions
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 08:52 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by QCVette
That thread shows quite a few that have used it with good results. It puts clean fluid much closer to the slave and pushes out the dirty fluid in the line between the slave and the master. Working the clutch only pulses the fluid in and out without a flow to the reservoir. Without a flow there is only a little migration of the dirty fluid. This method actually flushes the line and should be more effective than using the clutch repeatedly.

Thanks for posting this method. I will give it a try.
Thanks. My main point was to provide a photographic enhanced parts list. Several folks had asked in that other thread about what parts to go buy. I'm sure there are multiple combinations that come to this solution, this is only one.

Last edited by FLZapped; Sep 3, 2013 at 08:58 AM. Reason: addition
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 10:48 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by FLZapped
Thanks. My main point was to provide a photographic enhanced parts list. Several folks had asked in that other thread about what parts to go buy. I'm sure there are multiple combinations that come to this solution, this is only one.
As I stated in post#46, you can go to the dollar store and buy an injector for a buck (and it's plastic)

This works great, thanks for the repost and pics of what to buy.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 04:46 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by mikede824
As I stated in post#46, you can go to the dollar store and buy an injector for a buck (and it's plastic)

This works great, thanks for the repost and pics of what to buy.
Our dollar stores never seem to have these - but it sound like a great option. I was a bit shocked to find mine from Wallyworld was glass. Managed to break the first one...now I know better I would have never expected them to carry something so high quality.
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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 07:36 PM
  #52  
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OK, I went and bought the two items the OP suggested - Injector at Walmart for $4.97 and tubing at Autozone for $4.99. I measured the length of tubing actually used and it is exactly 12" from the top of the reservoir to the end where it stops. It does feed thru the reservoir without trouble. So, this routine gets you about 9" beyond the reservoir, for whatever that's worth.
Having used the turkey baster routine (actually, a battery fluid sucker-outer) a few times, I don't know if this method is any better or not, but it was easier to control errant drops/splashes of fluid. Getting down that last nine inches might have helped in dislodging stuff - don't really know.

The OP was correct when he said the injector is fragile! After completing the process and picking up stuff, I noticed mine was broken, too! Make sure you place yours on something soft! Oh well, Wally will replace it for free.
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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 09:44 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by c5vetteguy
OK, I went and bought the two items the OP suggested - Injector at Walmart for $4.97 and tubing at Autozone for $4.99. I measured the length of tubing actually used and it is exactly 12" from the top of the reservoir to the end where it stops. It does feed thru the reservoir without trouble. So, this routine gets you about 9" beyond the reservoir, for whatever that's worth.
Having used the turkey baster routine (actually, a battery fluid sucker-outer) a few times, I don't know if this method is any better or not, but it was easier to control errant drops/splashes of fluid. Getting down that last nine inches might have helped in dislodging stuff - don't really know.

The OP was correct when he said the injector is fragile! After completing the process and picking up stuff, I noticed mine was broken, too! Make sure you place yours on something soft! Oh well, Wally will replace it for free.
Interesting...makes me wonder if there is some sort of bad stresses in the glass where it forms the needle mount. May turn out that a different injector is needed. I don't feel quite so clumsy now.
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 10:44 AM
  #54  
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I still don't get what this contraption really does for getting dirty fluid out of the slave. Still seems like it's not worth the effort over the turkey baster.
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 10:33 PM
  #55  
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If you knew the length of the factory line from the clutch to the reservoir, that would tell you the length of tube to be slid down to get all the fluid. I would make sure the tube's outer edge is rounded over so it does'nt slice the inner factory tube when forcing it in. I like the method., but is it getting all the way down to the sweet spot, and what is that distance?
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 05:31 AM
  #56  
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You would need a tube a bit more than 3ft long to get all of the way down to the slave, if it was possible to get past the master cylinder, which it isn't.
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 07:02 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by c5vetteguy
OK, I went and bought the two items the OP suggested - Injector at Walmart for $4.97 and tubing at Autozone for $4.99. I measured the length of tubing actually used and it is exactly 12" from the top of the reservoir to the end where it stops. It does feed thru the reservoir without trouble. So, this routine gets you about 9" beyond the reservoir, for whatever that's worth.
Having used the turkey baster routine (actually, a battery fluid sucker-outer) a few times, I don't know if this method is any better or not, but it was easier to control errant drops/splashes of fluid. Getting down that last nine inches might have helped in dislodging stuff - don't really know.

The OP was correct when he said the injector is fragile! After completing the process and picking up stuff, I noticed mine was broken, too! Make sure you place yours on something soft! Oh well, Wally will replace it for free.
I've got black clutch fluid too, and found this very interesting and helpful thread on the subject. I didn't see mention of how much new fluid is needed to flush the system. I just bought a fresh 8.45 oz. bottle at my local Chevy dealer, but not sure if I should get more before starting this procedure?

Last edited by Olfart; Sep 8, 2013 at 07:05 PM. Reason: Additional information.
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 07:36 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Marine One
I use a turkey baster to remove the fluid from the reservoir.
that is what i used until i installed a remote bleeder...
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 05:16 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Olfart
I've got black clutch fluid too, and found this very interesting and helpful thread on the subject. I didn't see mention of how much new fluid is needed to flush the system. I just bought a fresh 8.45 oz. bottle at my local Chevy dealer, but not sure if I should get more before starting this procedure?
Originally Posted by c5vetteguy
OK, I went and bought the two items the OP suggested - Injector at Walmart for $4.97 and tubing at Autozone for $4.99. I measured the length of tubing actually used and it is exactly 12" from the top of the reservoir to the end where it stops. It does feed thru the reservoir without trouble. So, this routine gets you about 9" beyond the reservoir, for whatever that's worth.
Having used the turkey baster routine (actually, a battery fluid sucker-outer) a few times, I don't know if this method is any better or not, but it was easier to control errant drops/splashes of fluid. Getting down that last nine inches might have helped in dislodging stuff - don't really know.

The OP was correct when he said the injector is fragile! After completing the process and picking up stuff, I noticed mine was broken, too! Make sure you place yours on something soft! Oh well, Wally will replace it for free.
Just finished flushing my '05 C6 clutch hydraulic fluid, but it didn't go exactly as I thought. First I bought the 1/8" OD tubing at Autozone as recommended, but discovered it would NOT FIT through the hole in my '05 C6 reservoir. The needle on my injector did fit through the hole, but found it would only go about 1/2" past the hole. Must be because this was just another change made since the first year production. No problem. It took about 6 flushes, using >1 cc of fresh Super DOT-4 GM fluid each time, then 30 clutch strokes after each, to get mine looking good. The 8.45 oz. bottle of fluid I started with is just about empty, so I'd recommend buying two bottles if your fluid is REALLY black, to make sure you have enough to get the job done. The test drive afterwards showed an improved clutch feel, so I'm happy!
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