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Zeeman,
what brand of valve springs did you buy? If GM, is it correct to assume that these are improved/strengthened over what was originally installed?
Yes went with OEM Springs AND valve seals.... Assuming now the Springs are GREATLY improved since that 2002-03 debacle....
The springs ran me $105 and the valve seals, $55... Scheduling an appointment with the Dealer next week....Initial quote was $450 labor..
Yes went with OEM Springs AND valve seals.... Assuming now the Springs are GREATLY improved since that 2002-03 debacle....
The springs ran me $105 and the valve seals, $55... Scheduling an appointment with the Dealer next week....Initial quote was $450 labor..
springs are still basically the same rate, gm just had a supplier problem in 02-03 and the company wasn't quite as good as it should have been
katech posted who makes the new gm springs, if i remember right it's some german company that uses x-ray'd spring steel and has extremely tight quality control.
seals are around 20 per set of 8. the exhaust will be slightly more expensive
12499224 set of 16 GM valve springs
12482063 set of 8 intake valve seals
12482062 set of 8 exhaust valve seals
12637683 valve cover gasket 2 needed
are all the part numbers. you may not need the valve cover gaskets. i bought some only because i didn't know what kind of shape mine would be in when pulled off
some guys don't change the seals but my thinking is A. they are 10 years old and rubber B. the exhaust especially are subject to a lot of heat
for $40 and no real extra labor it seemed like a no brainer
Please confirm that these will fit a 2002 Z06. Thanks.
Please confirm that these will fit a 2002 Z06. Thanks.
Call your local Chevy dealer and confirms those part numbers if you need backup reassurance. I'm sure they are correct ... but it wouldn't hurt to verify because GM could have superseded part numbers just last week ... ya never know.
Call your local Chevy dealer and confirms those part numbers if you need backup reassurance. I'm sure they are correct ... but it wouldn't hurt to verify because GM could have superseded part numbers just last week ... ya never know.
may not work. local dealers will have the individual springs come up in the OE parts listing. the number i posted is a spring kit {same springs just 16 of them} sold under the gm performance parts label
may not work. local dealers will have the individual springs come up in the OE parts listing. the number i posted is a spring kit {same springs just 16 of them} sold under the gm performance parts label
Thanks for the info. I will figure it out.
Now I just need to decide who is going to change the springs.
It does not seem too hard to do but still out of my league for now. Heck, I don't even know how to make the piston go TDC so I don't drop anything in the chamber.
Thanks for the info. I will figure it out.
Now I just need to decide who is going to change the springs.
It does not seem too hard to do but still out of my league for now. Heck, I don't even know how to make the piston go TDC so I don't drop anything in the chamber.
using an air adapter is typically how it's done.
which reminds me, if your plugs and wires haven't been changed, do that too, they all have to come off to change the valve springs
it holds the valves in place so you can change the springs. you just screw it in one cylinder at a time. the air pressure holds the valves up
you just have to rotate the engine if a valve is open, you spin the engine so the cylinder you're on isn't on top of a lobe
Ok. Just wondered if the valves were open.
So you rotate the engine until both valves are closed? Why do you need the air if both valves are closed? For example if you rotate the engine and have a piston TDC with both valves closed, why the air?
Still learning about motors.
Ok. Just wondered if the valves were open.
So you rotate the engine until both valves are closed? Why do you need the air if both valves are closed? For example if you rotate the engine and have a piston TDC with both valves closed, why the air?
Still learning about motors.
well, even if a piston was at tdc the valve would go down a touch due to the clearance in the chamber. you just wouldn't lose it like you could if a piston was at BDC
with the air method you don't have to rotate the engine for any reason other than to make sure you don't have open valves which you can see just by looking. the majority of your valves will be closed, you change those and turn the engine until the couple cylinders on the cam roll off the lobe.
I used the "rope" method. I have a compressor and the air fittings, but opted for rope method for peace of mind. Imagine the air hose blowing and losing a valve down the cylinder
You got the right GM part #1249-9224, these are the newer blue springs. I am looking at the ones I ordered still in the original shipping box from April 2011. Decided at the last minute to install PAC 1218's .
Take your time on the install and replace the seals and retainers. Use torque wrench for the rockers. Honestly, for me the hardest part of the job was pulling off the spark plug boots , PIA.
I used the "rope" method. I have a compressor and the air fittings, but opted for rope method for peace of mind. Imagine the air hose blowing and losing a valve down the cylinder
You got the right GM part #1249-9224, these are the newer blue springs. I am looking at the ones I ordered still in the original shipping box from April 2011. Decided at the last minute to install PAC 1218's .
Take your time on the install and replace the seals and retainers. Use torque wrench for the rockers. Honestly, for me the hardest part of the job was pulling off the spark plug boots , PIA.
That was the part that I was afraid of. Imagine the electricity goes out while doing the work, then what?
How does the "rope" method works? Thanks.
That was the part that I was afraid of. Imagine the electricity goes out while doing the work, then what?
How does the "rope" method works? Thanks.
You're only working on one cylinder at a time, my 25 gal compressor hardly ran while I did the whole job. It's a really simple method to replace springs. I didn't even buy the air fitting, made one out of an old plug and an air hose fitting, welded them together.
Rope method is removing the plug and putting a piece of rope in the hole, then rotating the motor until the piston is at its highest point, then the rope will hold the valve up so you can change the springs.
Also I realized why everyone recommended installing new plug wires at the same time. The originals were very hard to get off in one piece, ended up ruining 1/2 of them. New wires were only like $70 or so.
I have done the rope trick as well, but in a 2jz motor. I am new to the LS world. My opinion is 1, valve stem seals is obvious since you are gonna be in there anyway. Avoid drippin oil down on top of the pistons and burning oil this way.
2. Might as well get some springs that will handle higher RPM and lift in case you want to upgrade cam or any other parts in future.
3. Do it yourself if you have the time, patience, and confidence. Save some $$$
Good luck!!!
You're only working on one cylinder at a time, my 25 gal compressor hardly ran while I did the whole job. It's a really simple method to replace springs. I didn't even buy the air fitting, made one out of an old plug and an air hose fitting, welded them together.
Rope method is removing the plug and putting a piece of rope in the hole, then rotating the motor until the piston is at its highest point, then the rope will hold the valve up so you can change the springs.
Also I realized why everyone recommended installing new plug wires at the same time. The originals were very hard to get off in one piece, ended up ruining 1/2 of them. New wires were only like $70 or so.
So what do you tie the rope to when the piston is TDC?
So what do you tie the rope to when the piston is TDC?
You just use a long enough length of rope so it hangs out of the plug hole a foot or so, it just hangs there while you do the work. No need to tie it to anything.