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Get a rubber mallet to hit the old spring before compressing it. I also use 2 pen magnets and lay them by the valve because those pins like to jump out or when putting them back in sometimes slip. I use a 3rd one to get the pins out and to have it on the top of the valve just in case. When you get in and start taking the spring remover off hit it again with the mallet.
Rope method is removing the plug and putting a piece of rope in the hole, then rotating the motor until the piston is at its highest point, then the rope will hold the valve up so you can change the springs.
How does the rope hold the valve up? That's where am not quite clear on the concept. I get the concept of removing the plug and then putting a piece of rope until the piston is at TDC.
There is very little space between the valves and the top of the piston when it's at it's highest point. The rope just fills that space and will support the valves with the piston is at the top of the cylinder. Here's a basic guide on the method along with the air pressure one.
I used the compressed air method. I think it's simpler because you don't have to rotate the engine to be sure the piston is at the highest point. Once you attach the air hose to the air fitting your ready to change the springs on that cylinder.
There is very little space between the valves and the top of the piston when it's at it's highest point. The rope just fills that space and will support the valves with the piston is at the top of the cylinder. Here's a basic guide on the method along with the air pressure one.
I used the compressed air method. I think it's simpler because you don't have to rotate the engine to be sure the piston is at the highest point. Once you attach the air hose to the air fitting your ready to change the springs on that cylinder.
Thanks for the link. Much clearer now.
Just wondering if using the air compressed method you are not at the mercy of an air compressor failure and or power failure. Just make sure you pay your electricity bill.
I have an 02Z with almost 35K on it. I have no idea if the previous owner changed the springs or not, but I doubt it. I am thinking about changing out the spring myself as it doesn't sound to terribly hard to do. So, I need a set of spring, I will also get new seals. Other than maybe replacing my valve cover gasket, is there anything else I need? Plugs and wires were changed out when I had the headers and blower put on so they should be good. I am on kind of a budget here so the GM springs are looking good, but I do tack it to 6K quite often, and I plan to track it, so should I go with the aftermarket springs? Will it matter if I don't since I don't plan on doing a cam, at least not in the near future?
I have an 02Z with almost 35K on it. I have no idea if the previous owner changed the springs or not, but I doubt it. I am thinking about changing out the spring myself as it doesn't sound to terribly hard to do. So, I need a set of spring, I will also get new seals. Other than maybe replacing my valve cover gasket, is there anything else I need? Plugs and wires were changed out when I had the headers and blower put on so they should be good. I am on kind of a budget here so the GM springs are looking good, but I do tack it to 6K quite often, and I plan to track it, so should I go with the aftermarket springs? Will it matter if I don't since I don't plan on doing a cam, at least not in the near future?
match the springs to the cam
if you aren't changing your cam the new stock springs are ideal. they have been used in many late ls6 engines, the ls2 and ls3 with an extremely low failure rate
Brian Tooley Platininum dual springs is what I have now ... I replaced my stock springs with the newer Blue OEM springs in 2011.. after 1 year (4000) miles ALL of those NEW OEM springs were only holding 65 psi of pressure, and made marks on my camshaft... All of this was discovered when I did my aftermarket camshaft, heads, and exhaust job back in January of this year...
I guess I am missing something here. How would a valve spring make marks on the cam in a non overhead cam engine?
Bringing this thread back to keep all this good info in one spot...
I'm in the middle of valve spring and seal replacement on my completely stock '03 z06, i've completed 5 cylinders, no issues. Tonight on cylinder 6, intake side, there wasn't a washer ( or is it a shim?) under the valve spring. This washer/shim is between bottom of spring and top of valve seal flange and was on all the other cylinders, what gives??! Did GM forget to install one on #6 intake seat or what? Do i need to have a shim/ washer here? It is a slightly larger od than seat itself...your inputs appreciated