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Well, just ordered a set of LS6 Valve Springs for my 22K miler '02 Z06. After reading through all the pages of the Sticky related to spring failure issues...Decided to bite the bullet and go with cheap insurance versus taking a risk of buying a new motor in case a valve drops to the pistons.....Now will call the Dealership to schedule an appointment.
Probably overkill, but damn!! Hate that forever thought of just maybe.....just maybe that spring is going to fail on my next road trip.
anywhere else you can go besides the dealer? they will rape you on prices
also probably worth changing the valve seals. only $40 for a complete set of 16 OEM GM and they take about 30 seconds to put on with the springs off
Thanks for that tip...I'll order a set tomorrow. On the GMParts website (Gene Culley), whenever you get to the part "Valve seals", it has a quantity of 1 for the intake valve.....for $20+ dollars, now I'm assuming 1 means a set? of 16? But it also identifies them as exhaust AND intake seals... Any clarification here is appreciated. Then again, it quotes also $20-$25 for the exhaust as well, but again, it says, quantity of 1...
As for Dealer prices on the labor, I called and they say the book calls for 5.2 hours to do the job....went on to say a quote of around $450 labor.... I've contacted 3 garages around town here, but all have passed on the job...One said after reading up on the "how to" of it, he said the manual he was reading mentioned something about having to "shim" the springs?? Huh? Sorta glad he turned down the job offer..
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the intake and exhaust seals are different so you need a set of each... I believe the prices on the site are for a complete set of 16... it isn't a hard job to do, if you are mechanically inclined you could knock it out yourself and save that money... the only reason you would have to shim the springs is if their install heights are off
Probably overkill, but damn!! Hate that forever thought of just maybe.....just maybe that spring is going to fail on my next road trip.
What do you guys think?
Yes, get this done. Before I did my valve springs I would cringe every time I'd drive the car not knowing if my number would come up or not. After the springs were upgrade, can drive and not have that thought of spring failure nagging in the back of your head all the time. Cheap insurance and peace of mind.
seals are around 20 per set of 8. the exhaust will be slightly more expensive
12499224 set of 16 GM valve springs
12482063 set of 8 intake valve seals
12482062 set of 8 exhaust valve seals
12637683 valve cover gasket 2 needed
are all the part numbers. you may not need the valve cover gaskets. i bought some only because i didn't know what kind of shape mine would be in when pulled off
some guys don't change the seals but my thinking is A. they are 10 years old and rubber B. the exhaust especially are subject to a lot of heat
for $40 and no real extra labor it seemed like a no brainer
Zeeman,
what brand of valve springs did you buy? If GM, is it correct to assume that these are improved/strengthened over what was originally installed?
Zeeman,
what brand of valve springs did you buy? If GM, is it correct to assume that these are improved/strengthened over what was originally installed?
Yes, the current GM stock springs are better than the ones that came in the LS6s. Believe the current OEM springs are the same ones GM used in the LS2/LS3 engines.
If you need valve cover gaskets and bolt grommets, go to the local auto parts store and get the Fel-Pro brand gasket kit. Silicone rubber like the OEM gaskets - at half the cost.
seals are around 20 per set of 8. the exhaust will be slightly more expensive
12499224 set of 16 GM valve springs
12482063 set of 8 intake valve seals
12482062 set of 8 exhaust valve seals
12637683 valve cover gasket 2 needed
are all the part numbers. you may not need the valve cover gaskets. i bought some only because i didn't know what kind of shape mine would be in when pulled off
some guys don't change the seals but my thinking is A. they are 10 years old and rubber B. the exhaust especially are subject to a lot of heat
for $40 and no real extra labor it seemed like a no brainer
I am a new owner and have also a 2002 Z06 so have been reading all the threads regarding the valve springs issue.
Some members are recommending the PAC 1218 Beehive Valve Springs. Is there much difference between the GM springs and the 1218. Some are also recommending the PAC 1518 if I remember correctly.
I am a new owner and have also a 2002 Z06 so have been reading all the threads regarding the valve springs issue.
Some members are recommending the PAC 1218 Beehive Valve Springs. Is there much difference between the GM springs and the 1218. Some are also recommending the PAC 1518 if I remember correctly.
The PAC 1218s would be better than the GM springs, and the PAC 1518s are even better than the 1218s. 1518s are "enhanced" 1218s because they have a micro shot peened and nitrited surfaced. This makes the 1518s able to do higher lift and make them more reliable. 1218s and 1518s have exactly the same spring specs (ie, spring rate, same open and closed force, etc) ... they are just made better.
Brian Tooley Platininum dual springs is what I have now ... I replaced my stock springs with the newer Blue OEM springs in 2011.. after 1 year (4000) miles ALL of those NEW OEM springs were only holding 65 psi of pressure, and made marks on my camshaft... All of this was discovered when I did my aftermarket camshaft, heads, and exhaust job back in January of this year...
Brian Tooley Platininum dual springs is what I have now ... I replaced my stock springs with the newer Blue OEM springs in 2011.. after 1 year (4000) miles ALL of those NEW OEM springs were only holding 65 psi of pressure, and made marks on my camshaft... All of this was discovered when I did my aftermarket camshaft, heads, and exhaust job back in January of this year...
OOHH for second as I was reading I thought you had done dual springs on a stock camshaft.
I am a new owner and have also a 2002 Z06 so have been reading all the threads regarding the valve springs issue.
Some members are recommending the PAC 1218 Beehive Valve Springs. Is there much difference between the GM springs and the 1218. Some are also recommending the PAC 1518 if I remember correctly.
they are stiffer and can handle more lift. not really sure if they are "better" as i don't know how a person would define better. if you're planning a cam down the road they would be the way to go for sure
if not it's just more pressure on the lifters and more money spent for no real benefit. the new ls3 springs from gm have an extremely low failure rate from the research i did
Brian Tooley Platininum dual springs is what I have now ... I replaced my stock springs with the newer Blue OEM springs in 2011.. after 1 year (4000) miles ALL of those NEW OEM springs were only holding 65 psi of pressure, and made marks on my camshaft... All of this was discovered when I did my aftermarket camshaft, heads, and exhaust job back in January of this year...
what height were they measured it? no spring, even the cheapest valve spring loses that kind of pressure over its life. spring steel will snap before it fatigues to that point if you measured them at 1.8" which is where they should be 85-90lbs. the height you measure the spring has a direct impact on rate. a stock spring has about 90lbs at 1.8" and that rockets up to 290-300lbs at 1.25". if you measured at 1.85 or 1.9" 65lbs would be about right
i checked a 90k mile stock springs against one of the new blues and they were within 3lbs of each other at the same height
marks or scuffs would have me suspecting oil first and foremost. the new api SN/SM oils with the lower zddp levels really are not choice for high performance driving. the mobil1 high mileage is better, better still are amsoil zrod or redline that have over double the zddp of standard oils. big big deal for metal on metal contact. too little spring pressure would have you floating the valves all the time and beating the snot out of your valve seats
"I" wouldnt say that.... the new GM replacement springs have more coils than the 1218s... load distribution is key.. more coils = more even load (laws of physics, which I am a college professor of Engineering, and teach that course).. therefore, I would say the stock GM springs are better than the 1218s...
I know this has been talked about on this forum several times. And has caused several heated debates. I dont have time for those. So, I will just say..
they are stiffer and can handle more lift. not really sure if they are "better" as i don't know how a person would define better. if you're planning a cam down the road they would be the way to go for sure
if not it's just more pressure on the lifters and more money spent for no real benefit. the new ls3 springs from gm have an extremely low failure rate from the research i did
The PAC 1218s or 1518s result in about 25~30 more lbs of closed valve spring force, and at full lift (valve all the way open) the spring force/load is the same as the OEM springs.
"I" wouldnt say that.... the new GM replacement springs have more coils than the 1218s... load distribution is key.. more coils = more even load (laws of physics, which I am a college professor of Engineering, and teach that course).. therefore, I would say the stock GM springs are better than the 1218s...
I know this has been talked about on this forum several times. And has caused several heated debates. I dont have time for those. So, I will just say..
you have your opinion, I have mine.
I'd bet the 1218s, and especially the 1518s, would out perform and outlast the OEM springs. There is more than just the number of coils involved ... like coil diameter, purity of the metal, alloy of the metal, heat treatment, surface treatment, etc.