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As far as I can tell, the brake fluid has never been changed on my 2001. After 13 years it is due. I was going to wait until it needed pads but that may be a few more years. I did it in my C3 and remember what a pain it was. I know its labor intensive and was wondering what a shop might charge. Anyone have it done? What did it cost?
Local dealer here charges about $120 for a vehicle. I do all my own work so did mine when I swapped to stainless steel lines and powder coated calipers. About 2 years later I put front calipers in the rear and actually disassembled the master cylinder, cleaned it up and put it back together. Everything works great now.
Chris
Local dealer here charges about $120 for a vehicle. I do all my own work so did mine when I swapped to stainless steel lines and powder coated calipers. About 2 years later I put front calipers in the rear and actually disassembled the master cylinder, cleaned it up and put it back together. Everything works great now.
Chris
I thought it was fairly easy but I did order the motive power bleeder before attempting it. I removed all four wheels after putting it on jack stands, and then sucked as much of the fluid out of the reservoir as I could. After filling it with fresh I pumped up the power bleeder and was ready to work. Start with the passenger rear, then the driver rear, then the passenger front and finally the driver front. The reason for this is that you want to start with the section furthest away from the master. I chose to use blue brake fluid so there was no question that I had fresh fluid all around, but that is up to you. If you fluid is really 13 years old, which I hope it isn't, it should be easy to tell when fresh fluid is being bled out.
When doing this, keep an eye on the reservoir as you DO NOT want it to run dry during the process.
I do all my own work so did mine when I swapped to stainless steel lines and powder coated calipers. About 2 years later I put front calipers in the rear and actually disassembled the master cylinder, cleaned it up and put it back together. Everything works great now.
Chris
This is what I am looking to do. I can't decide on what color to powder my calipers, but I ordered my lines and will rebuild the calipers when I strip them for powder. Should be rock solid when I am done. The gray on the C6 GS is what I might end up with. I might try to match the quicksilver body color, not sure.
The problem is the previous owners did not keep records, so I don't know for sure if it was changed or not. It should not be a big problem because all the components are stainless steel, unlike C3s.
Worth it to me to pay 100 bucks since I am not as young as I used to be.
The problem is the previous owners did not keep records, so I don't know for sure if it was changed or not. It should not be a big problem because all the components are stainless steel, unlike C3s.
Worth it to me to pay 100 bucks since I am not as young as I used to be.
Condensation is the enemy. I change mine out every 2 yrs.
Condensation is the enemy. I change mine out every 2 yrs.
Yes and that moisture in the fluid corrodes parts in older cars, but it won't hurt stainless steel. Two years is overkill.
There is no interval schedule in the manual for brake fluid change.
What do the auto makers say about fluid changes? General Motors and Chrysler do not mention brake fluid in their
scheduled maintenance recommendations. A General Motors spokesman said Delco Supreme 11 DOT 3 brake fluid
contains additives than many other brake fluids do not, so it is essentially a lifetime fluid. Starting in 1993, GM began
using a new type of rubber brake hose with an EPM lining and outer jacketing that reduces moisture penetration by 50%.
So GM does not consider fluid contamination to be a significant problem.
The MityVac is your friend. It renders it an easy one-man job. I do it about every 3 years. But, this will depend on your driving conditions. Raced, winter driven, rainy climate, etc.
Mityvac, motive power bleeder, or a friend. I've used all 3, end result is the same, but the Motive is definitely the easiest. Don't need to worry about constantly adding in brake fluid and etc. Longest part of this process will be getting the car jacked up and the tires off/on.
As Black 02 said, get the Power Bleeder and it is easy. You will never pay anyone to do it again. It is an easy job and you will be proud doing it yourself. All instructions are included so don't fear!
As Black 02 said, get the Power Bleeder and it is easy. You will never pay anyone to do it again. It is an easy job and you will be proud doing it yourself. All instructions are included so don't fear!
I did it on my C3 with a Motive bleeder. I don't plan on doing it again.
I think one of the main reasons to change the fluid is to get fresh fluid through the ABS valves and pump. Old fluid can cause sticking within the pump. Had mine done last fall cost about $ 120, the garage had a Tech II so I had them cycle the ABS brakes several times.
Green Brake Fluid (I don’t mean environmental green)
When you change your brake fluid pay attention to the color of the old fluid compare to the new stuff. I just change the fluid in my 2002 (w/48,000 miles and probably the original fluid) and it was a dark green color .Well, I did a little online research and it turns out that corrosion from any copper alloy that's integrated into the steel brake lines will cause the greenish tint over time. Let us know.
I thought it was fairly easy but I did order the motive power bleeder before attempting it. I removed all four wheels after putting it on jack stands, and then sucked as much of the fluid out of the reservoir as I could. After filling it with fresh I pumped up the power bleeder and was ready to work. Start with the passenger rear, then the driver rear, then the passenger front and finally the driver front. The reason for this is that you want to start with the section furthest away from the master. I chose to use blue brake fluid so there was no question that I had fresh fluid all around, but that is up to you. If you fluid is really 13 years old, which I hope it isn't, it should be easy to tell when fresh fluid is being bled out.
When doing this, keep an eye on the reservoir as you DO NOT want it to run dry during the process.
I could use your help soon, i'm going to be installing Stainless Steel Brake Lines, Speed Bleeders, Baer Eradispeed Rotors, and fresh Motul Brake Fluid. Of course i'd, compensate you with lunch afterwards.