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they told me that gm didn't make the transmissions anymore and that a rebuilt non gm one they found would be 4600 installed, plus 900 for a clutch if I wanted to do that as well. I don't have 4-6k to spend right now on this. was hoping I could just change the first gear synchronizer.
This is why I stay away from dealerships. The rebuild for $1350 will be better than stock, plus comes with a year warranty.
For what the dealer wants, you'd be 1000 times better off putting in an RPM transmission. By the way, it is a sad reality but the T-56 transmissions in our beloved cars suck. I had to replace mine after a mere 50,000 miles. I had the same thing... grinding in first gear.
The thing to remember is when the tranny is taken out, there's access to a lot of stuff which is very costly to get to...If the OP can find the financial resources to do this, AND, if the plan were to keep the car for a long time, I'd recommend:
My 1st gear syncro has been bad for a long time. As long as I shift into 2nd then first only at complete stop it doesn't grind and you wouldn't even know there was an issue.
Of course I want it fixed so I am going to do the rebuild with the better forks, etc and I am still looking at $1400 and better than the stock when done.
This is what mine does. If im at a dead stop in neutral and very slowly shift into 1st it will go into with little effort. If i try and shift quick into first from a stop in neutral it feels like it hits a wall, then i would have to go from 2nd to 1st and it does fine. and every so often reverse will do the same. Does these mean i have bad syncro's? its a 02 Z06
I personally wouldn't spend any money on a transmission until I had ruled out the other, much less costly and equally likely causes (like master cylinder, throw out bearing, etc). And as others have mentioned, if I got a tranny, I wouldn't pay $4600. Get a rebuilt unit. Many out there from very reputable sources including many forum vendors.
"Mine had a similar problem when I bought it and aligning it didn't fix the problem although it was slightly out of alignment. A combination of a B&M shifter intended for an 08+, 2x spacers for the detent, changing the fluid for the newer GM dex iii replacement and another final alignment seems to have almost completely cured my problems. Does reverse give you any grief?"
I think I read somewhere that the early M6 had paper/composite blockers with the scnycro's. I have had problems with scyncro's becoming bonded/gunked with varnishs and fail to spin freely, thus not doing their job properly. Mostly due to the wrong fluid being used or lack of maintance.... just a thought.
I was really hoping to try out the Amsoil Torque-Drive Synthetic but I couldn't find any information as to whether or not it would cause issues with the first gen C5 trans so I ended up just using the newer fluid that GM pushes. I wouldn't have put it past the previous owner(s) to have put a synthetic in that wasn't compatible since the swirl marks and leftover paste wax in the crevices lead me to believe they didn't try their hardest to take care of it.
You need to get the car in the air and remove the inspection plug at the bottom of the bellhousing. Have someone actuate the clutch and make sure it is fully disengaging. Not at home with the FSM, but it should tell us what the clearance should be. You measure it with simple feeler gauges.
The dealership should have done this to rule that out.
I was really hoping to try out the Amsoil Torque-Drive Synthetic but I couldn't find any information as to whether or not it would cause issues with the first gen C5 trans so I ended up just using the newer fluid that GM pushes.
For future reference, the Torque Drive is compatible with the paper blocker rings in the 98-99 trannies and there are many forum members with those year Vette's using it.
meh, took it to another shop and they said the 1st and 2nd gear syncs were bad, plus the clutch. said you had to buy/change all the syncs together and couldn't do them separately. was charging 4100 total to rebuild it plus new clutch. don't really have that money to spend anymore on an old car so probably just going to sell or trade it in
I'm having the trans in my 03 z rebuilt right now, tick stage 1 rebuild, monster stage 2 clutch/flywheel, new slave, remote bleeder, and labor for under 3k. Stay away from dealerships. My work is being done by a reputable shop. My rebuild is due to the trans popping out of reverse. If you skipped the clutch, you could have it all done for around 2k.