grinding only in first
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Cherryville North Carolina
grinding only in first
BUMP: Read post 13. Thank you.
hi, I have an 01 zo6 with a c6 shifter installed. for a while, it began harder to get the car in first gear than usual. the only way to ensure the car would go into first was to put it in neutral, bring the shifter all the way to the right, and then bring it back to the left and put it first. otherwise there was a good chance I would end up in third.
lately, though, it now makes a grinding noise/rattling every time I put it in first unless I put it in neutral and bring it all the way to the right before going in first (putting it in reverse first also prevents the grinding).
what do you guys think the problem is and how much to fix it? I heard it may be the synchronizer. thanks in advance.
hi, I have an 01 zo6 with a c6 shifter installed. for a while, it began harder to get the car in first gear than usual. the only way to ensure the car would go into first was to put it in neutral, bring the shifter all the way to the right, and then bring it back to the left and put it first. otherwise there was a good chance I would end up in third.
lately, though, it now makes a grinding noise/rattling every time I put it in first unless I put it in neutral and bring it all the way to the right before going in first (putting it in reverse first also prevents the grinding).
what do you guys think the problem is and how much to fix it? I heard it may be the synchronizer. thanks in advance.
Last edited by And7Baller; Mar 21, 2014 at 11:57 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 302
From: Columbia SC
I agree, that is the FIRST thing to do. If you have to drive the car do whatever you have to do to prevent the grinding, including starting in second gear.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,361
Likes: 51
From: Dallas Texas
St. Jude Donor '08
Might be coincidence with the shifter and your 1st gear syncros are going out. My 1st did and all I had to do was never put it in first while moving unless I put it into 2nd first and then slid into first. You would never know anything was wrong. If that works for you...nothing to do with shifter.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 302
From: Columbia SC
Might be coincidence with the shifter and your 1st gear syncros are going out. My 1st did and all I had to do was never put it in first while moving unless I put it into 2nd first and then slid into first. You would never know anything was wrong. If that works for you...nothing to do with shifter.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,590
Likes: 48
From: Nathalie VA
St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18
Use this link to verify/correct shifter alignment. Make sure the bolts are properly torqued and that the bushings are not worn out where the shifter box mounts to the torque tube.
Also, there is a small ground in the rear driver side fender well with a 10mm nut on it. This is the ground for trans sensors and reverse lockout. It wouldn't be a bad idea to clean up this connection for good measure.
Bet I'm one of the few on here that know Cherryville is pronouced Churrville. (I'm from Lincoln Co. too)
Good luck!
Also, there is a small ground in the rear driver side fender well with a 10mm nut on it. This is the ground for trans sensors and reverse lockout. It wouldn't be a bad idea to clean up this connection for good measure.
Bet I'm one of the few on here that know Cherryville is pronouced Churrville. (I'm from Lincoln Co. too)
Good luck!
Last edited by CamminC5; Feb 10, 2014 at 10:45 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Life moves pretty fast... if you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it!
CI 6-8-9 Veteran
As mentioned above, check the alignment (very easy),and if you're still having issues, ( I had a similar problem a couple of years ago), I replaced my transmission flud with AmsOil Torque Drive Synthetic. I could not believe the instant improvement in the smoothness of the shifts and all of the grinding and difficult shifts went away. Zuti
Zuti
Premium Supporting Vendor
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From: King George VA
(same tranny fluid I use in my 02 Z06 at the track)AMSOIL Torque-Drive Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (Product Code ATD1G)
More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.
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C66 Racing #66 NASA ST2, SCCA T2
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AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program (Members buy at Wholesale - a savings of about 25%)
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Cherryville North Carolina
Well, I was finally able to get around to look at my car. Checked the fluid first, and then I tried messing with the alignment. I put in my old B&M shifter in but it didn't fix the problem. Took it out, put my c6 shifter back in (which i have been currently using) and yet again I'm still grinding like crazy in first (unless I go from reverse to first, then it works fine).
Any other stuff I should try before dropping it off somewhere?
Thank you.
Any other stuff I should try before dropping it off somewhere?
Thank you.
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 38
From: King George VA
It could be the clutch. In racing my 02 Z06 for about 10 years now, I've found the throw out bearing in the clutch is a very weak link. Seals in it seam to go fairly quickly after which you don't get full clutch disengagement. Might not notice is as much in the higher gears as you may naturally be getting revs pretty close such that it doesn't matter. The other piece I've had to replace is the clutch master cylinder. If it doesn't move enough fluid you could get similar symptoms. Of course, it could be the first gear synchro as well, but my guess is clutch.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,835
Likes: 302
From: Columbia SC
The clutch could certainly be your problem. Not at home with the FSM. However all my other cars allow you to actually measure the clutch air gap when engaged to verify it is enough/correct. I am certain the C5 must have away to do it. You should just need to get the car in the air. Can be done without running the engine.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Cherryville North Carolina
I ended up dropping it off at a dealership because we knew a guy that worked there and said he would take care of it. Got a call back today and they said I need a new transmission, and that they found a non-gm one for $4,600. I realize no one on here can actually look at my car, but from the description I provided of the problem, does it really sound like I need a whole new transmission? The car has 95K miles. I was thinking it was the synchronizer or clutch... I couldn't afford the new transmission right now even if I wanted to. Any thoughts? Thank you.
Last edited by And7Baller; Mar 21, 2014 at 12:02 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,361
Likes: 51
From: Dallas Texas
St. Jude Donor '08
My 1st gear syncro has been bad for a long time. As long as I shift into 2nd then first only at complete stop it doesn't grind and you wouldn't even know there was an issue.
Of course I want it fixed so I am going to do the rebuild with the better forks, etc and I am still looking at $1400 and better than the stock when done.
Of course I want it fixed so I am going to do the rebuild with the better forks, etc and I am still looking at $1400 and better than the stock when done.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 167
Likes: 107
From: Edmond OK
Mine had a similar problem when I bought it and aligning it didn't fix the problem although it was slightly out of alignment. A combination of a B&M shifter intended for an 08+, 2x spacers for the detent, changing the fluid for the newer GM dex iii replacement and another final alignment seems to have almost completely cured my problems. Does reverse give you any grief?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Cherryville North Carolina
thanks for the replies. but no, it only grinds when I put it into first. it actually doesn't grind at all when I go from reverse to first. all gears other than first are smooth.
any other thoughts anyone?
any other thoughts anyone?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Cherryville North Carolina
just picked up the car. I told him I was thinking it was the first gear synchronizer and he said it probably was, but that I couldn't just change that synchronizer out, and that I would have to change the main shaft out as well. is there truth to this? can I just not change the first gear sync (if that's the problem) instead of buying a whole new transmission?
thank you.
thank you.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Monroe NC
I'm having the trans in my 03 z rebuilt right now, tick stage 1 rebuild, monster stage 2 clutch/flywheel, new slave, remote bleeder, and labor for under 3k. Stay away from dealerships. My work is being done by a reputable shop. My rebuild is due to the trans popping out of reverse. If you skipped the clutch, you could have it all done for around 2k.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: Cherryville North Carolina
they told me that gm didn't make the transmissions anymore and that a rebuilt non gm one they found would be 4600 installed, plus 900 for a clutch if I wanted to do that as well.
I don't have 4-6k to spend right now on this. was hoping I could just change the first gear synchronizer.
I don't have 4-6k to spend right now on this. was hoping I could just change the first gear synchronizer.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
From: northern ca
St. Jude Donor '14
I have no personal knowledge of the M6 (other than having one) but have done plenty of manual/auto transmissions in the past and I agree it's probably the scyncro. It shouldn't cost 4-5k to fix it though, if you do your own work, even if you did the clutch. (1K) An overhaul vs a replacement with a guarantee.
This post by gtrslngrchris intrigues me
"Mine had a similar problem when I bought it and aligning it didn't fix the problem although it was slightly out of alignment. A combination of a B&M shifter intended for an 08+, 2x spacers for the detent, changing the fluid for the newer GM dex iii replacement and another final alignment seems to have almost completely cured my problems. Does reverse give you any grief?"
I think I read somewhere that the early M6 had paper/composite blockers with the scnycro's. I have had problems with scyncro's becoming bonded/gunked with varnishs and fail to spin freely, thus not doing their job properly. Mostly due to the wrong fluid being used or lack of maintance.... just a thought.
This post by gtrslngrchris intrigues me
"Mine had a similar problem when I bought it and aligning it didn't fix the problem although it was slightly out of alignment. A combination of a B&M shifter intended for an 08+, 2x spacers for the detent, changing the fluid for the newer GM dex iii replacement and another final alignment seems to have almost completely cured my problems. Does reverse give you any grief?"
I think I read somewhere that the early M6 had paper/composite blockers with the scnycro's. I have had problems with scyncro's becoming bonded/gunked with varnishs and fail to spin freely, thus not doing their job properly. Mostly due to the wrong fluid being used or lack of maintance.... just a thought.