I looked at the steering wheel cover as well. It was that picture that scared me away. The wrinkles in the leather. I wasn't going to risk it. Hopefully yours goes on smooth.
As far as your settings.... Why do you have the LPF active on both the head unit and amp? Personally I would use one or the other. Read the specs and see what slope is used on the head unit and the amp. Odds are they are both 12db/octave. If so, just use the headunit. Although if you can't bypass the filter on the sub section of the amp, use it and not the head unit.
Personally I would reduce the overlap of your front speakers and the sub. Looks like you set the front and rears just above their rated response. That is how I do it as well. Although I try to set the sub no more than 5hz-10hz above the front. Depending how steep the slope is on the xover. 12db isn't a super steep rolloff so you could set the sub at 60 and still be good. If the headunit or amp lets you set it at 65hz-70hz... that would be my choice. As far as the rear speakers go. Fade all the way to the front. Start fading towards the rear until you just hear the rear speakers. Back it off towards the front one click. The idea isn't to hear the rear speakers. They help lift the soundstage of the front.
I'm sure I just told you what you already know as it looks from your install that you are qualified to install. With that said, we all do things a bit different. A lot is just personal preference and taste. I owned a Car audio/Home theater business for about 10 years before closing shop while going through a divorce. Yes I am qualified but there are more than 1 way to skin a cat. lol
I've setup and tuned many systems that my clients loved, and had some clients complain saying they want more bass or whatever. I would adjust it until they were happy. We all have different ears. Tune it for you and enjoy. You have done a great job so far.

 

Curious about the butyl rope on the inside of the door between the bar and outside skin. This is the first I've seen of this being used in deadening. I have SS Damplifier pro on both inner and outer skin. Do you think it would be significant to add the butyl rope?

 

Yeah, I'm really picky about that kind of thing too. That's one of the reasons I bought the donor wheel. I can make sure it's just right before I pull the original off.

Honestly, I don't recall why I set it on both. I must have read something about it somewhere. I can disable on both the amp and deck. So I think I'll stick with the HU strategy and leave it disabled on the amp.

I did set them just above rated figuring rolloff would keep me from missing range and still offer good clarity which is what I'm after. I'll try 70hz on the sub.

Yup, that's exactly how I have it set. This is my first install. Never tried it before. Lots of reading.

Thanks for the confirmation. As I'm not an expert, I really wanted to make sure I didn't have any glaring faults. Appreciate your detailed responses. Sorry about the divorce--been there, got the t-shirt.


I used the rope to ensure there were no skin to support bar 'vibes' when the bass hit. I doubt I'd take everything apart just to install the rope; however, since I had everything apart anyway, it was a cheap and easy insurance policy against that type of unwanted noise.

 

I had an account with Second Skin. Placed a huge order before my business closed. I have enough Damplifier Pro, Luxury Liner Pro, and Overkill Pro to do my Vette and my HotRod I'm building. They have some good stuff. I planned to use the Overkill Pro for behind all the plastic interior panels and areas like mention where he put the butyl rope. I have a buddy who works in the Heating & Air business. He used to give me a heavy duty butyl tape with a thick foil backing. The stuff works great. My only fear is the interior not going back in because I have so many layers!!!.

 

I had problems and had to remove some MLV from below the center console. The cubby covers don't fit anymore, probably from MLV over the back corners/sides/rears. I didn't put any MLV in the doors and I haven't put any CCF in the doors yet, but I'm going to. I'm also going to get some CCF in the seat belt shrouds. The driver's side buzzes quite a bit.

CLD, Heat, MLV all fit on the floorboards, tunnel sides, behind the seats, rear deck without too much fuss. The carpet in the cargo area is a little 'off' and takes some time to get it to lay right.

Also make sure you have lots of room under the seat mounts. I wanted those to sit flush against the body just like stock, so I took out enough material to ensure there was nothing between the seat mount and floor.

 

I'm going to do fiberglass sub enclosures in the corner cubbies. And an amp rack where yours is located. I've got 3 amps and 2 processors I need to fit in the rear cargo area. 2 amps will fit in the rack and the other will be on the rear bulkhead wall, right above the center cubby. The 2 processors will need to either go in the center cubby or possibly behind the passenger seat.
To be honest, not looking forward to this install. I'm very **** and will be even more so on the Vette. My back already hurts!

 

Dropped it off this AM to have the front bumper re-sprayed. It had some road rash on the corners from previous owner hitting parking blocks. Also a bunch of rock chips and some cracking around the front license plate cover.

Redline steering wheel cover should ship tomorrow.

 

A little aggravated today. Wheel cover and paint BOTH delayed a day. It's small issue in the grand scheme and I'd rather have work done right than fast.

Both vendors said they wanted to do it right and that was the cause for the delay. Apparently wheel cover wasn't good enough so they did it over, and the paint guy said "there was a little more work on the bumper than we originally thought so it took us longer".

 

My OEM tires are 11 years old with 20k miles and a millimeter from the wear bar; so, I had to make a move. No ETA on Brickyards, Forgeline F14s are 6-8 weeks. So I went back to Nurburgrings: Gunmetal with Mirror Cut Face. These were also out all over the place, but I found them in stock at Discount Tire Direct

I ordered 18x9-50/19x10x65 wheels wrapped with Hankook Ventus: 245/40 up front and 285/35 in the back. Tires will be mounted and balanced with new TPMS sensors and lugs when they arrive so all I'll have to do is bolt them on.



Bumper is painted and looks much better. Still waiting on my Redline steering wheel cover to ship. Don't know what the heck is going on there but it's been nearly two weeks since I ordered it.

Also made the first passes with the Flex Rotary on the paint and am really happy with progress there.

Still thinking about what I want to do engine-wise, so no decision yet on headers/x-pipe/CAI/tune.

Lights, body, suspension are on shortlist still.

 

Flex Rotary ???

 

Rotary polisher...

 

Lots of good news today:

1) Called Discount Tire Direct and confirmed my Gunmetal Nurbugrings order. I got the last two 19" they had in-stock.

2) RPM Shipped my wheel cover. Normal ~10 day shipping from the UK for that.

3) Dennis confirmed my bezel is in the queue for next week.

Looks like a lot more stuff heading my way the week of the 14th.

 

Figured with the new wheels on the way, I may as well take care of the brakes while I'm in there.

Brakemotive drilled/slotted rotors.


Stoptech Street Performance Pads


Steel braided brake lines


Black Caliper Paint


For a brake fluid flush. No idea when it might have last been done, so...now I'll know.

 

Front brakes are done. Pics added to Post #3. I'll tackle the rears tomorrow.

 

Just curious on your choice for tire size, I also have Nurburgring rims 19 rear 18 front running Hancook v-12, but went with 305-30-19 and 265-35-18 front, they are completely flush and look great, it's what was recommended by the vendor that sold me my rims, like I said just curious why you chose the size you did

 

I really wasn't sure what size to select, so I put a post up and asked for guidance. One of the more knowledgeable respondents recommended this setup and he was pretty certain it was the right choice. So...I took his advice.

 

I understand, I was just curious, cause I think you could have been able to get a little wider tire at both ends, I'm not sure if you've received your wheels yet, but I bought mine from Alex at house of wheels and he was really helpful, anyway just food for thought.

 

Redline wheel cover showed up today finally. Heading out to garage to start working on it in a little while. Pics to follow.

 

I got the lower half of it stitched last night. The thumbs and foam wrap went on pretty quickly but the stitching is taking me a long time. So far, I'm very pleased with the outcome. The inner corners of the two upper spokes look like they have wrinkles, but that's because I haven't stitched up the opposite (upper) sides of those spokes. Keep in mind, the wheel is upside down in this pic. I did it that way to show the stitching. The two lower spokes are stitched on both sides of the spoke and they are wrinkle-free.



Unfortunately, I won't be able to pick it up again for a few days. I'll provide pics of the whole process when I'm done.

 

Wahoo!! Just got the tracking number for my wheels/tires. Hoping they get here Friday.