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Paint Defect Correction - Experimentation

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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jmxp69
Lots of folks swear by that 'filling advantage' and I thought I'd give it a go as an interim step while I work out the defects. At the end of the day though, I subscribe to the school of thought that says the only real option is to eliminate the defects. I believe all polishes/topcoats will look better on a defect free (or nearly free) surface.

Since you seem to have Zaino down, what do you make of my experience with the blotchiness/uneven appearance I saw tonight? I only gave it about an hour. Did I just not let it cure long enough? Also, do you use Z2 or just Z5 + CS?
Unless you got a bad batch of Zaino (I never have), you should not experience any unevenness. I have seen some other people report "streaking". I am just taking a "guess" here...

Most polishing compounds contain "oils" (I know Menzerna does). which tends to give you a "false positive" while you are polishing. Those oils have an unbelievable ability to fill small defects - so even though you "think" you are done correcting the paint, you are not finished! I use a product called Menzerna Top Inspection right after what I "think" is my final polishing step - this removes all those oils and lets you see the "true" unfilled surface (Poor Boys and others sell a similar product). I also use Griots Pre-Wax cleaner and re-wash the car prior to applying the Zaino. So my "guess" is that some of the "oils" from your polishing are still on the surface and keeping the Zaino from bonding?

Since I have a "black" car, this is "my" normal routine after a full detail...

Z5/ZFX
Z6 Wipedown
Z5/ZFX
Z6 Wipedown
Z2/ZFX
Z6 Wipedown
CS
Z8 Finish
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 05:25 PM
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Just started on my C5 today with the M105/205 and DA. Did the hood by breaking it down into 9 sections and it's definitely harder paint then my C6; after I finished it and pulled it back out into the sun I still saw a lot of swirls left. Think I might have to find a better cutting compound, really don't want to go to the coarser LC yellow pad. I still have some Menzerna SIP and final polish left so might try that tomorrow.
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 10:38 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Choreo
Unless you got a bad batch of Zaino (I never have), you should not experience any unevenness. I have seen some other people report "streaking". I am just taking a "guess" here...

Most polishing compounds contain "oils" (I know Menzerna does). which tends to give you a "false positive" while you are polishing. Those oils have an unbelievable ability to fill small defects - so even though you "think" you are done correcting the paint, you are not finished! I use a product called Menzerna Top Inspection right after what I "think" is my final polishing step - this removes all those oils and lets you see the "true" unfilled surface (Poor Boys and others sell a similar product). I also use Griots Pre-Wax cleaner and re-wash the car prior to applying the Zaino. So my "guess" is that some of the "oils" from your polishing are still on the surface and keeping the Zaino from bonding?

Since I have a "black" car, this is "my" normal routine after a full detail...

Z5/ZFX
Z6 Wipedown
Z5/ZFX
Z6 Wipedown
Z2/ZFX
Z6 Wipedown
CS
Z8 Finish
I tried Z5 again today and left unimpressed again. It may be what you've said and I will give it one more try after washing again.

Originally Posted by rpm462
Just started on my C5 today with the M105/205 and DA. Did the hood by breaking it down into 9 sections and it's definitely harder paint then my C6; after I finished it and pulled it back out into the sun I still saw a lot of swirls left. Think I might have to find a better cutting compound, really don't want to go to the coarser LC yellow pad. I still have some Menzerna SIP and final polish left so might try that tomorrow.
Yeah, I moved mine into sunlight today and holy smokes, right back to UC and a W8006. Definitely can't go directly from M105 to a polish. From 105 you've got to take some steps down.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 04:04 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jmxp69
I tried Z5 again today and left unimpressed again. It may be what you've said and I will give it one more try after washing again..
Definitely something not right.

Today was my day to start a major detail on mine again (been 5 months). Followed the steps I showed above and no problems (mottling, streaking, etc.)?

Can you post a photo of what it is doing or will it not show up?
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 04:10 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Choreo
Definitely something not right.

Today was my day to start a major detail on mine again (been 5 months). Followed the steps I showed above and no problems (mottling, streaking, etc.)?

Can you post a photo of what it is doing or will it not show up?
After I pulled the car out into the sunlight, I broke out the UC again and took it off. The sun really showed me quite a few areas that need work. Per your initial post on going to a rotary, you've inspired me. I just bought a Flex L3403 VRG, Menzerna SIP, Menzerna Nano, 2 Orange, 2 White, 1 Red, 1 Grey CCS pads.

Unfortunately, due to prior commits, I won't be able to work on the car for a few days. I'll be back at it as soon as the rotary shows up.

This is getting expensive
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 08:02 AM
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I have been using zanio for close to 16 years. The three things you need is fusion first, It will remove the scratches. The Z5 & Z2 will restore the shine. Think as if you are finishing a piece of wood. The fusion is course, the Z5 is finer and the Z2 is the finest. You do not need all that other stuff. That corvette is not that big that you can't do it buy hand. This is the final result. I also showed my impala SS in a early post.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jmxp69
After I pulled the car out into the sunlight, I broke out the UC again and took it off. The sun really showed me quite a few areas that need work. Per your initial post on going to a rotary, you've inspired me. I just bought a Flex L3403 VRG, Menzerna SIP, Menzerna Nano, 2 Orange, 2 White, 1 Red, 1 Grey CCS pads.

Unfortunately, due to prior commits, I won't be able to work on the car for a few days. I'll be back at it as soon as the rotary shows up.

This is getting expensive
The Menzerna SIP & FP with a DA is working pretty well for me so far, have only done a couple test areas. I'd say it's getting out about 85% of the swirls.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rpm462
The Menzerna SIP & FP with a DA is working pretty well for me so far, have only done a couple test areas. I'd say it's getting out about 85% of the swirls.
I've had some success with the DA, and M105. Problem is it's just taking too long and too many passes. When the M105 is done, I've found UC or #83 is a required step to remove haze and swirls left by M105.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 07:14 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jmxp69
I've had some success with the DA, and M105. Problem is it's just taking too long and too many passes. When the M105 is done, I've found UC or #83 is a required step to remove haze and swirls left by M105.
I know that feeling, seems like it's taking forever!
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 07:25 PM
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Excellent writeup and info on clearing up the C5 clear coat! I was always curious about the MG cutting pads on the PC and now I have an answer!

This is something I'll definitely be referencing in the near future when I sit down to detail my entire black Z! Thanks!!

--
VPP
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jmxp69
After I pulled the car out into the sunlight, I broke out the UC again and took it off. The sun really showed me quite a few areas that need work. Per your initial post on going to a rotary, you've inspired me. I just bought a Flex L3403 VRG, Menzerna SIP, Menzerna Nano, 2 Orange, 2 White, 1 Red, 1 Grey CCS pads.

Unfortunately, due to prior commits, I won't be able to work on the car for a few days. I'll be back at it as soon as the rotary shows up.

This is getting expensive
FYI - I never use a "rotary". I use an RO - (Flex XC-3401-VRG)
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Choreo
FYI - I never use a "rotary". I use an RO - (Flex XC-3401-VRG)
Ahhh. When you said you finally got serious and got a Flex RO, then referenced speed/possible damage, I thought you were talking about a rotary.

At any rate, I wasn't willing to spring for another DA (RO). Time to step up for me.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 12:45 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by VPP
Excellent writeup and info on clearing up the C5 clear coat! I was always curious about the MG cutting pads on the PC and now I have an answer!

This is something I'll definitely be referencing in the near future when I sit down to detail my entire black Z! Thanks!!

--
VPP
Glad it's been helpful. Just remember, if you go with cutting pad and m105, you're going to want to use a less aggressive compound like UC or #83 afterwards depending on how much effort you put into the m105 passes.
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 05:46 PM
  #34  
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I got my Flex Lite Rotary, 2 Orange, 2 White, 2 Black CCS Pads, Menzerna SI 1500, and Menzerna SF 4000 today. I lost patience trying to work the swirls out with my PC DA, so I took it to a detailer. They said a wool pad would be required. So I had them do their thing as I wasn't willing to learn how to use wool on my C5.

Anyway, they did a wonderful job getting the paint back under control. Now I can use the new gear to dial-in that last 1%. Won't be able to test for a few days as the car is having the front bumper re-sprayed.

More to follow...
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 12:13 AM
  #35  
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I got the car back from the bumper re-spray and went straight to it with my new Flex Rotary, Menzerna, and CCS Pads. SI1500 with an orange ccs pad on a rotary is the real deal. I pulled the car out into the sun and looked for an area to finish where the detailer left off. The rear decklid got my attention.

I divided the decklid into 5 parts. Top and bottom on the right and left, and the center area above the logo. 2 passes on each with the SI1500 @1200rpm orange pad left the surface in close to perfect condition. I followed-up with one pass of SF4000 @ 1500rpm white pad. Sealed with Meguiar's Ultimate by hand and I'm finally content.

I'll get some pics tomorrow when I can get some direct sunlight on it. I'm also going to experiment with the DA and wax removal. I've always applied and removed wax by hand.
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 02:26 AM
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Went out and worked on the hood today. The Flex/Menzerna/CCS combo made short work of it. I've learned a few more things in my experimentation.

Menzerna SI500 on an orange pad with a rotary is aggressive. The good news is it was just the step up I needed. I am new to using the rotary and after a few rounds I propped the hood up for some direct sunlight and had to swallow hard because I saw some holograms. I've never had to deal with them before. This combo wipes out swirls and scratches, but I'll attribute the holograms to my inexperience with a rotary. Fortunately, SF4000 on a white pad is the cure. One run with that pair and the holograms (appear) to be gone and I'm left with what I wanted. Those "smudges" above the cap aren't on the paint, those are clouds. The white nicks are leftover material I didn't get on the wipedown.



This is a really good pic showing the before and after with SI500. Left side is before. Right side is after. I stopped in-between sections to get this pic because I wanted to show just how much of a difference this makes compared to a DA application. The rotary is all business. I think above all other pics I posted, this pic shows the impact this particular combination of machine/product/pad yields. The left side is the best I could do with a DA and 10+ years of experience. The right side is with a few hours of rotary time. I'll also point out this is true defect correction. Even though the paint still isn't perfect and I have more work to do it is a stark difference from where I started.


Ok, defects are under control. I can remove them at will. Here's the completed hood after SI500/SF4000. There is still no wax on it.



If you're still reading, you'll probably be interested in the process:

- Clean/clay as needed.
- SI500 with Orange for deeper defect removal. You will see rotary marks/holograms if you're new to a rotary. I would seriously recommend keeping the rpms low here: 1100-1500 tops.
- SI500 with White pad for lesser defect removal. Still keep those rpms under 1500.
- SF4000 with White pad at 1100 rpm.

I'll close by saying after I got the hood into good shape, Zaino Z2 looks great. I didn't bother with Z5. May fiddle a little more with that tomorrow.
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 09:20 PM
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Front, driver's side and rear are done. This is after SI500, SP4000, Z5, and one coat of Z2.



Choreo/Frank,

I think I know what the problem was with Zaino--it wasn't the Zaino. I just hadn't gotten the clear consistent enough before the rotary. Now that I've got my process worked out, Zaino is working great on the car.
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To Paint Defect Correction - Experimentation

Old Apr 7, 2014 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by FRANK J CARCIA
I have been using zanio for close to 16 years. The three things you need is fusion first, It will remove the scratches. The Z5 & Z2 will restore the shine. Think as if you are finishing a piece of wood. The fusion is course, the Z5 is finer and the Z2 is the finest. You do not need all that other stuff. That corvette is not that big that you can't do it buy hand. This is the final result. I also showed my impala SS in a early post.
Congrats on 2 sweet rides.
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by FRANK J CARCIA
I have been using zanio for close to 16 years. The three things you need is fusion first, It will remove the scratches.
I have no idea how Zaino Fusion compares to say Meguiar's M105 or Menzerna SI1500. There's also the pad to consider. I can tell you the M105 and a Maroon pad from Meguiar's on a DA will take swirls out and SI1500 with a CCS Orange pad does too. I experimented with both and liked the results I got with SI1500/Orange on a Rotary. Still have work to do, but that combo is very effective.
The Z5 & Z2 will restore the shine. Think as if you are finishing a piece of wood. The fusion is course, the Z5 is finer and the Z2 is the finest. You do not need all that other stuff. That corvette is not that big that you can't do it buy hand. This is the final result. I also showed my impala SS in a early post.
I don't think my result would have been achievable without a high quality DA or Rotary. In the end, I found a working process:
1) SI1500/Orange/~1200
2) SF4000/White/~1100
3) Z5x1, Z2x2+

Last edited by jmxp69; Apr 7, 2014 at 03:37 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 07:52 AM
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I'm no detail guru but after trying by hand to correct anything on my '01, I'll have to agree with jmxp that anyone will be hard pressed to make a dent in the C5 clear by hand.

I've been wanting to step up to a legit polisher for a while and completely correct the Z, plus the wifes car could use a good amount of attention for a car that's only a few years old.

Thanks for the write up.
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