Techron time???
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,432
Likes: 74
From: KcMo.
2018 C5 of Year Winner
Thanks Mr. Bill..
Hopefully, he will do a complete fuel system clean, run something like GM Top Engine cleaner, and learn from the articles.
Hate to see someone destroy a fine sports car by not following the basic OEM recommendations!
Depending upon how long he has been doing this, he may have already caused irreparable damage, but not too late to stop the continued damage.
Hopefully, he will do a complete fuel system clean, run something like GM Top Engine cleaner, and learn from the articles.
Hate to see someone destroy a fine sports car by not following the basic OEM recommendations!
Depending upon how long he has been doing this, he may have already caused irreparable damage, but not too late to stop the continued damage.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,423
Likes: 200
From: Atlanta GA
Techron is sold at most parts stores and seems to cure a lot of people's issues with the fuel gauge issue (actually fuel tank floats issues which sticks when there is a sulfer build up).
I had this issue on my 2000 but do not have it on my 03 Z06 (or at least not yet). However, my Z06 only had 20K miles on it when I purchased it 2 years ago, and I only run Chevron or Texaco with Techron (93 octane of course). All premium grades of Chevron gas includes Techron (I believe mid-grade does as well, but only use 91 octane or above in your Corvette).
You may have to clear your codes until the Techron has time to cycle through. Clearing the PID codes should reset your fuel sensors.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: Mt, Home AR
This is not a personal attack, but this needs to be said.
Why in the world do you own a Corvette? If you are so penny conscious that you will run inferior gas in your car (assume you are using cheap oil and filters as well), then why own a sports car period?
You are losing performance, inviting ping, knock and detonation, and you will be replacing fuel system components at a lot earlier age than most. These cars and engines are not made for low octane fuel. A 10:1 compression engine should be burning at a minimum, 91 octane.
In addition, your pistons and heads are going to have a lot of carbon build up. Pistons will probably be pitted as well. Plan on your throttle body looking like the insides of a heavy smoker's lungs. Hope you have retarded the timing on the car.
Of course it is your car and you can do with it what you want, but if you ever decide to sell and I knew you were burning 87 octane gas, I would NEVER buy the car.
Perhaps these two articles will explain what you are potentially doing to your car:
http://www.contactmagazine.com/Issue...ineBasics.html
http://www.caranddriver.com/features/regular-or-premium
Why in the world do you own a Corvette? If you are so penny conscious that you will run inferior gas in your car (assume you are using cheap oil and filters as well), then why own a sports car period?
You are losing performance, inviting ping, knock and detonation, and you will be replacing fuel system components at a lot earlier age than most. These cars and engines are not made for low octane fuel. A 10:1 compression engine should be burning at a minimum, 91 octane.
In addition, your pistons and heads are going to have a lot of carbon build up. Pistons will probably be pitted as well. Plan on your throttle body looking like the insides of a heavy smoker's lungs. Hope you have retarded the timing on the car.
Of course it is your car and you can do with it what you want, but if you ever decide to sell and I knew you were burning 87 octane gas, I would NEVER buy the car.
Perhaps these two articles will explain what you are potentially doing to your car:
http://www.contactmagazine.com/Issue...ineBasics.html
http://www.caranddriver.com/features/regular-or-premium
Our tests confirm that for most cars there is no compelling reason to buy more expensive fuel than the factory recommends, as any performance gain realized will surely be far less than the percentage hike in price. Cheapskates burning regular in cars designed to run on premium fuel can expect to trim performance by about the same percent they save at the pump. If the car is sufficiently new and sophisticated, it may not suffer any ill effects, but all such skinflints should be ready to switch back to premium at the first sign of knock or other drivability woes. And finally, if a car calibrated for regular fuel begins to knock on anything less than premium or midgrade, owners should invest in a tuneup, emissions-control-system repair, or detergent additives to solve, rather than bandage, the root problem. Class dismissed.
P.S. I will fill up with premium next time I get fuel, and, after a few miles to let the computer make adjustments, see if I notice a performance increase. If it's noticable by the seat of the pants, I would probably spring for higher octane gasoline. 10.1/1 compression is not that high, and aluminum dissipates heat much more efficiently than iron. My 67 Camaro has a 1970 iron block that I built myself, dart sportsman iron heads, at 9.5/1 compression, long duration, solid cam, and I have to run premium, and I add an octane booster to eliminate probability of knock. Again, it has a MANual transmission. All you automatic transmission fellers most definately should run the higher octane, as you have less control over engine load and shift points.
Last edited by inauguralfbody; Jul 8, 2014 at 12:56 PM.
