Harmonic Balancer, Need Input
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 15,061
Likes: 1,613
From: Holly Springs NC
St. Jude Donor '16-'17,'22,'24
Harmonic Balancer, Need Input
Long story short, I checked my harmonic balancer, looked like it had some wobble. Had it checked out by my mechanic, he confirmed the run out is excessive, so it has to be replaced.
While checking out this subject for the C6 I looked at, I noticed some guys had replaced the balancer with aftermarket.
Have others with the LS1 replaced their harmonic balancer and did you replace it with the OEM unit or aftermarket? If aftermarket, which brand and model did you go with and are you satisfied?
Any input, feedback here is appreciated.
While checking out this subject for the C6 I looked at, I noticed some guys had replaced the balancer with aftermarket.
Have others with the LS1 replaced their harmonic balancer and did you replace it with the OEM unit or aftermarket? If aftermarket, which brand and model did you go with and are you satisfied?
Any input, feedback here is appreciated.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
From: Montreal Drive it like you test it !
I would not replace it with stock or any type with rubber ring in it. Most of the time, the rubber part causes the wobbling. Many guys chose ATI. I bought Powerbond stock (0% underdrive) from Hinson Super Cars. Not installed yet; currently in the UPS truck.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 15,061
Likes: 1,613
From: Holly Springs NC
St. Jude Donor '16-'17,'22,'24
Yes, the rubber ring is what has failed on mine. No surprise, that's what usually fails.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 15,061
Likes: 1,613
From: Holly Springs NC
St. Jude Donor '16-'17,'22,'24
I agree, that's why I'm posting here. My mechanic said the same thing. We agreed I'd post here and see what the group recommends based on changes they've made.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 15,061
Likes: 1,613
From: Holly Springs NC
St. Jude Donor '16-'17,'22,'24
Actually, I came across an old thread while doing a general search on this subject. It has some excellent information and is relevant even though it's four years old. I hope this link works:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-racing-2.html
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Instructor
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
I haven't replaced mine yet been paranoid because of all ive read on it, I check it often, I thought gm came out with a replacement balancer that was different from the ones that go bad, just something someone told me I never looked into it yet, mines a 99 with 39k
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 23,283
Likes: 906
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Stocker will eventually go due to aging and fatiguing of the elastomer between the two halves. A buddy with an '02 Z06 with 98k miles on it just started wobbling so he's going with the Powerbond HB. I would use an aftermarket HB, Powerbond, ATI, etc. I had an ASP underdrive pulley for a while before installing the latest IW. I would suggest you pin the HB and install a reuseable ARP crank bolt when you replace yours while youre at it.
I just installed an Innovators West OD balancer - not by choice, but it was required to the specific mod I was adding to my new setup. IW balancers don't use elastomer as the damping material but a wet friction clutch pack instead. These are expensive but they are serviceable and extremely tough. Plus, I needed one to allow the HB to be machined and converted over to a cog drive. Here's how they work:
The Innovators West dampers are a friction style damper. Inside the damper is a wet friction clutch pack assembly. Spring Loaded inertia rings work in conjunction with clutches to provide the dampening action. There is a small amount of fluid inside that acts as a lubricant as well as dissipates heat. The free floating clutch pack design allows for a broad dampening range in a small package
I couldn't resist sanding and polishing mine before installing it.
Best of luck with your fix.
I just installed an Innovators West OD balancer - not by choice, but it was required to the specific mod I was adding to my new setup. IW balancers don't use elastomer as the damping material but a wet friction clutch pack instead. These are expensive but they are serviceable and extremely tough. Plus, I needed one to allow the HB to be machined and converted over to a cog drive. Here's how they work:
The Innovators West dampers are a friction style damper. Inside the damper is a wet friction clutch pack assembly. Spring Loaded inertia rings work in conjunction with clutches to provide the dampening action. There is a small amount of fluid inside that acts as a lubricant as well as dissipates heat. The free floating clutch pack design allows for a broad dampening range in a small package
I couldn't resist sanding and polishing mine before installing it.
Best of luck with your fix.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 479
Likes: 106
From: Beamsville Ontario
Did a fair bit of research, mostly on these forums. 2000 Base with 25k, bad balancer. Went with a Powerbond OEM and the ARP bolt. OReilys was the best price on the balancer, about $100 shipped.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 15,061
Likes: 1,613
From: Holly Springs NC
St. Jude Donor '16-'17,'22,'24
Thanks, I think this is the winner for me. After completing my research, I want to go with original weight and set up also seems like the ARP bolt is easier to use.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 33
From: Shelby Township MI
I got the 25% Powerbond from Texas Speed. Used the ARP bolt and ATI Pin Kit. Changed the oil pump, LS2 timing chain, and cover seal tool.I also used the SAC alignment tool for the seal and cover Get a balancer install tool too.
Get yourself a good 18mm flare wrench for the power steering rack lines. There were time consuming for me. Get some plugs for the lines and ports as well so fluid does not go all over the place.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 505
Likes: 37
From: SoCal
From my research, here's what I've concluded:
Is your car stock? If so I'd go with the Powerbond replacement (~$100). You can go for a 10% or more UD if you want to spend the extra ~$100 or so.
You can also go with ATI, but be aware that they require servicing (not for around 10 years though I believe).
If you are not planning on pinning the crank, you may want to consider going with the stock bolt and the GM diamond embedded washer. The washer helps keep the bolt in and helps keep the damper from spinning on the crank. If you do plan on pinning it, you can go with the ARP bolt or the stock bolt with no washer.
Is your car stock? If so I'd go with the Powerbond replacement (~$100). You can go for a 10% or more UD if you want to spend the extra ~$100 or so.
You can also go with ATI, but be aware that they require servicing (not for around 10 years though I believe).
If you are not planning on pinning the crank, you may want to consider going with the stock bolt and the GM diamond embedded washer. The washer helps keep the bolt in and helps keep the damper from spinning on the crank. If you do plan on pinning it, you can go with the ARP bolt or the stock bolt with no washer.
Acct Suspended APR 2026 by request
Joined: Dec 2010
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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innovators west is what I went with... you may not need the exact configuration as mine but they can make them any way you wish
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 518
Likes: 36
From: Indiana
Replaced mine on my '03 with an ATI 10% underdrive at 73,xxx miles.. I'm guessing this is more common on Corvettes? My 1999 Z28 had 115,000 miles on it when I sold it and never had any wobble, (had it since 45,000)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,453
Likes: 347
From: SC
82,000 miles on my stock balancer on my 02, no problems.