hi guys I posted this in the tech section not getting a responce, machine shop is waiting on me to tell him what to do so if you guys can point me in the right direction it be great!

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...questions.html

 

This will help you, and the machine shop to achieve your goals.

You can also buy different head gaskets thickness.

http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

 

you're better off being down a couple hp and safe with a street car than pushing compression on pump gas. certain cams do better with certain compression ratios and that also factors in. if your cam grinder sold you a cam that needs 10:5-1 to 11:1 like many high performance street cams i would always say to err on the lower side like 10:5 to 10:7 rather than 11:1, two things happen if you have more compression than octane. one is your tune winds up using less timing, this costs you the hp you had on paper and makes the engine less efficient. second, if you do run hot timing on 92oct you can have detonation issues on hot days when you run the car hard. the knock sensors are pretty good on the c5 but they can only do so much and react after knock is taking place...again..costs you power and potentially the ringlands

 

I talked to comp cams and the rep said 10.1 to 10.5 is what I should shoot for


thank you!

 

i'll share a quick story and why you just saved yourself a lot of trouble by asking and listening to what the cam manf said. years back i built a gen1 357ci small block. i wanted a good midrange powerband, cam grinder says make the engine 10:5-1 compression with the combustion chambers your heads have and 92 octane fuel. i think 11:1 will be snappier

end result....11:1 was snappy

engine required 95 octane with a standard timing curve if i wanted it to run right in hot weather.

had i listened and ran 10:5-1 it would have been lovely on 92 octane and i would have lost maybe 5-8hp tops

depending on how you want that engine to drive you may actually like a 112LSA more than 114. the pros and cons are basically this. 114 will drive almost like stock on a 224/230 grind. power is very gradual

112 adds more overlap and will rip a bit harder if you're into drag racing. power will start to fall slightly sooner but will come on harder in the 3000-5500 range. usually more overlap as faster when ET racing , BUT, you create more emissions, it drives worse in traffic and has more lope at idle.

that cam would actually work well with a less than ideal exhaust. the LS heads have a very efficient exhaust port and many cams are single profile that work well. 228/228 with around .600 lift on 112 or 114 is very common. a split duration favoring the exhaust would work well with mild boost, nitrous, or exhaust manifolds NA {the ls7 conversion for example} also would not be bad with cats and quiet mufflers along with headers

in fact if i was going to select a cam to stick in a stock ls6 with no other mods it would probably be yours. it would drive nice and work with the factory exhaust. top end would be a good deal stronger than the OE ls6 cam

so, what i'm getting at is this. if you're going racing you may want to change it up. if you're wanting to keep it tame but rip harder than stock this is a good choice

with that open exhaust you have and strong clutch i would eyeball the texas speed 228R. just looking at the valve events it's going to move more air than the cam you're looking at.

 

My wife is with me a lot in this car and didnt want to make it to where she never gets it in, I also dont want to choppy loud car that gets all the attention when we pull up some place nice for dinner so hoping this is a "happy" middle that when I feel the need to get aggressive it has enough you stay in front of my friends and nitrous "might" be used if this is not enough lol

friends cars
2013 cts-V with tune and bolt'on
2008 c6 tune bolt'n
2012 c6 GS tune cam and stall
2013 gt500 pulley bolt'on's tune

all are mid to high 11's hoping I can sneak passed with a low 11