Shifter knobs?
Racer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 320
Likes: 2
From: Philadelphia PA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 5,278
Likes: 539
From: Kelowna BC
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 5,278
Likes: 539
From: Kelowna BC
Finally got the TwistedShifterz **** in place and locked in. The height so far feels great, just a smaller (1 7/8") **** size, a little less throw and height, and I love my factory shifter. Will drive it this way for a bit and decide if another 1/2" lower is wanted or not.
See my previous posts in same thread if you have no idea what the heck I'm on about.
See my previous posts in same thread if you have no idea what the heck I'm on about.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,373
Likes: 423
Looks bad - feels good. Where have I heard that one before?
I couldn't get any that I liked from the factory or aftermarket so I took a NOS stock F body leather covered ball from the '80s - drilled it out to fit a 9/16 nut and JB Welded it inside. Now I have a leather ball that is easy on the hand and the eye. Looks stock but never was. Kind of a "Phantom" . Looks good - feels good.
I couldn't get any that I liked from the factory or aftermarket so I took a NOS stock F body leather covered ball from the '80s - drilled it out to fit a 9/16 nut and JB Welded it inside. Now I have a leather ball that is easy on the hand and the eye. Looks stock but never was. Kind of a "Phantom" . Looks good - feels good.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 5,278
Likes: 539
From: Kelowna BC
Looks bad - feels good. Where have I heard that one before?
I couldn't get any that I liked from the factory or aftermarket so I took a NOS stock F body leather covered ball from the '80s - drilled it out to fit a 9/16 nut and JB Welded it inside. Now I have a leather ball that is easy on the hand and the eye. Looks stock but never was. Kind of a "Phantom" . Looks good - feels good.
I couldn't get any that I liked from the factory or aftermarket so I took a NOS stock F body leather covered ball from the '80s - drilled it out to fit a 9/16 nut and JB Welded it inside. Now I have a leather ball that is easy on the hand and the eye. Looks stock but never was. Kind of a "Phantom" . Looks good - feels good.
I'm hoping this new one of mine stays cool in the heat, supposed to hit 99F here in BC tomorrow. Any time it hits low 90's and up the steel one I made was untouchable for miles.
It sure as heck feels good being that 1"+ lower! Much more natural arm position, good size, little bit shorter throw...
1/4 mile/AutoX
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 11,439
Likes: 2,183
From: Buffalo Texas
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,753
Likes: 167
From: Youngsville North Carolina
Depends what he drove before....
I went from a C3 (77) to the C5 and at first try the C5 felt tight...
However; after a few months I went to an MGW...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 794
From: Longview Texas
I bought a 1 7/8" shifter **** from TwistedShifterz, but the way they worded it I assumed the threading wouldn't be as deep as I wanted; well it is! The way this **** is built is almost identical to what I had planned (only smaller ID at bottom, so harder/impossible? to tuck boot up inside at lowest install option). I have no need to make my own. Ref; upside down red U is shifter boot "at rest".
Pictures of: **** install drawing, bottom side of TS ****, installed with no shaft mod.
Left:
Factory ****/shaft (key/keyway rotated; ignore)
2nd:
TS ****
No shaft changes
~1/4" lower than stock
Some shaft showing
3rd:
TS ****
~13/16" sawn off top of shaft
No threading required
~15/16" lower than stock
**** will push boot down ~1/4" easily
Right:
TS ****
~1 1/4" cut off top of shaft
Must extend thread ~1/2" down
~1 3/8" lower than stock
Boot likely needs to be trimmed or forced up inside (don't think it can be moved down the 3/4" needed)
I'm off for 9 days, will likely do 3rd step only, as I think this will get the **** to the height desired. Will post final picture and actual height measurements.
Pictures of: **** install drawing, bottom side of TS ****, installed with no shaft mod.
Left:
Factory ****/shaft (key/keyway rotated; ignore)
2nd:
TS ****
No shaft changes
~1/4" lower than stock
Some shaft showing
3rd:
TS ****
~13/16" sawn off top of shaft
No threading required
~15/16" lower than stock
**** will push boot down ~1/4" easily
Right:
TS ****
~1 1/4" cut off top of shaft
Must extend thread ~1/2" down
~1 3/8" lower than stock
Boot likely needs to be trimmed or forced up inside (don't think it can be moved down the 3/4" needed)
I'm off for 9 days, will likely do 3rd step only, as I think this will get the **** to the height desired. Will post final picture and actual height measurements.
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Aug 17, 2015 at 04:29 PM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 5,278
Likes: 539
From: Kelowna BC
Love that look... if I ever change actual shifters I'll definitely consider that one knowing it's a good unit.
1/4 mile/AutoX
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 11,439
Likes: 2,183
From: Buffalo Texas
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 794
From: Longview Texas
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 794
From: Longview Texas
The MGW does have nylon bushings on the lower rod (not necessarily better than stock), but it uses the same GM shaft to connect to the shifter, and I actually like that GM uses a plastic bushing on the ball at the end of the stick instead of a metal ball against a metal shift rod.
Any wear will be on the plastic bushing and not on the shift rod.
Long term, the MGW box is open to the dust and dirt that will enter the tunnel. Guess I don't understand why they would design a fancy box and not enclose the working parts.
Any wear will be on the plastic bushing and not on the shift rod.
Long term, the MGW box is open to the dust and dirt that will enter the tunnel. Guess I don't understand why they would design a fancy box and not enclose the working parts.
1/4 mile/AutoX
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 11,439
Likes: 2,183
From: Buffalo Texas
The MGW does have nylon bushings on the lower rod (not necessarily better than stock), but it uses the same GM shaft to connect to the shifter, and I actually like that GM uses a plastic bushing on the ball at the end of the stick instead of a metal ball against a metal shift rod.
Any wear will be on the plastic bushing and not on the shift rod.
Long term, the MGW box is open to the dust and dirt that will enter the tunnel. Guess I don't understand why they would design a fancy box and not enclose the working parts.
Any wear will be on the plastic bushing and not on the shift rod.
Long term, the MGW box is open to the dust and dirt that will enter the tunnel. Guess I don't understand why they would design a fancy box and not enclose the working parts.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 794
From: Longview Texas
1/4 mile/AutoX
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 11,439
Likes: 2,183
From: Buffalo Texas