you know what i love about this statement

first time a guy mods a car he sees it, blows it off, builds crazy car

second time a guy mods a car he sees it, considers it....might pull back from the last car a bit but still makes mistakes

by the 3rd car you mod or 3rd + the 85% rule is the #1 thought and the car you really enjoy looks nothing like car #1 did you then sit back and wonder why you ever made car #1 since this latest car cost less to mod and is way more enjoyable

 

I kept my car N/A with no regrets. I easily hit the 450 rwhp and can tune it to hit 460 plus, but I was more concerned with how the car works instead of the overall numbers.
I'm easily doing 11's in the quarter mile. I'm faster than a stock C6 Z06 and supercharged C5 vettes with 520-550 rwhp. Although on the highway they might get me if we start at 70 - 80 mph, but I'm not crazy and not racing on highways.

It sounds awesome and not difficult to drive on the street. I really don't need 600 rwhp and don't want to be replacing or upgrading the transmission and differential or blowing bottom ends. Although the stock bottom end handles the hp, everyone would admit it's only a matter of time, and instant if the meth pump stops working. For me N/A all the way.

 

I have 635 RW, and No meth. Not to mention 11:1 CR. Plenty of fuel pressure, and a good tune are more important.

 

Exactly....except it took me about 5 cars to get there lol. BUT I got there! That's why I'm keeping this one mellow. I do have a 'stupid' car that's fun to drive a few times a year, but I want the vette to be a nice driver that if I wanted to commute with for a week I can. But normally its driven 2-3x a month

 

Still think that cam is going to be too big for a car that's street driven mostly. I made a optimistic 468rwhp on a much smaller cam, using mods in profile.

 

How much boost could you run on the stock heads if you didn't want to buy after market heads ?

I'm looking to buy some mast 215 heads...anyone ever had them in their life ?

 

Also, anyone know where I can get a MAF relocation kit for my 102mm intake...or know any tricks on how to make one ?

 

well i just ordered a Tick Performance Stage 3 sns cam and people are making 447-451 with basic bolt ons(headers, catless exhaust, air intake, and tune) with stock untouched heads with this cam. no intake manifold or tb. the cars with this cam are reported to drive like stock.

 

I'm running that Tick SNS Stage 3. 447 rwhp 406 rwtq with 1 7/8" Kooks LT's, off road x, Airaid CAI, SLP 25% underdrive pully and 36 lb injectors. Stock everything else. It's a blast! Drivability is great, but not like stock, but nothing annoying. Poor stock clutch slipped all the way down the track first time out. Heading back to the track once it cools off. I installed a Monster LT1-s clutch and love it!

 

heads are never the problem, it's always head bolts, rod bolts etc. even if you run e85 and keep detonation under control the rods, bolts etc have limits

long story short you will make more power than your stock driveline can handle

 

Here's your cheap and proven kit.
I have done several all make 450+

Btr stage 4 cam kit.
1-3/4 ARH.
And a great tuner James Short tuning.

Add nothing else no intake no ported heads no throttle body.
Every body gets caught up in mods that don't make power

 

Is there a particular reason for 450rrwhp? You can get a nice cam-only set-up with good manners and great torque that will still make in the 430s. The money you save on heads can go towards boost, or tires, or clutch.

Even 400rwhp will make short work of sub-optimal factory-sized tires.

 

Well you know...those that figure that out are the ones who have been there and done that. I think it simply comes with being comfortable to build what you like, and not as much what you think will impress other people.

There was a time I built extreme stuff to rep my own shop and get me business, but for my own personal stuff, I never went crazy. I took a lot of heat for it too. I didn't want to be the guy drag racing at the local track and building 1100hp...I wanted balance and enjoyment.

A lot of guys who get into modding something...especially those that pay for services...they get sucked in and they get SOLD. Shops want to build a maxed out car...it pays them, feeds their addiction to build cars and buy parts, plus it helps rep. A lot of people get sucked in to that and end up with a garage or trailer queen. I always discouraged my customers in a lot of ways...try to be the voice of reason I guess and dial back their builds because I knew what would serve them better long term. I had a lot of people who thanked me though, after they watched everyone else talk about their builds, but they were daily driving theirs season after season. I could've banked on a lot of people...but didn't.

It's tough though...everyone wants a badass car, but not many know how to control the monster inside that wants more. You have to be a matured builder. Some people never get there though.

 

that's for sure

 

Well said!

 

Good luck with your build !

My setup is super drivable. I can even cruise at 50mph in 6th gear at around 1200 rpm with no bucking or surging. I even put in a cam that will work with a super charger. Just in case I wanted to install one at a later date.

471/441 to the rear wheels.

Vararam B2 w/Green Filter
Airbridge & Smooth Tube
Ported LS2 Throttle Body
Ported FAST 92mm Intake Manifold painted flat black
AFR 205 Heads Milled to 59cc for >11.1 comp ratio
Comp 921 Dual Valve Springs
Comp R Valve Lifters
Hardened Steel Pushrods
Titanium Retainers
Under Drive Pulley
160 Degree Thermostat
LG's G5X1-E Cam on 114 LSA
SVO 30# Fuel Injectors (80% Duty cycle on these now. I recommend 42lbs)
LG Pro Long Tube Headers With Cats (1 3/4)
GHL Bullet Cat Back Exhaust

 

^ If you want to go NA, just duplicate the tried and true route (Toque's setup). One of the most complete cars on the forums.

Also,
Shooting for numbers, in my opinion, is just not the way to go. Sure, you can have a goal in mind. But the way the car feels / drives, is way more important than what numbers it puts down on the dyno.
Having said that, I went FI and am at 670 WHP currently on the stock bottom end - it really is almost just too much for the street even with R compound tires. Unless you want to go to jail, and have your car impounded, which isn't on my list.