Steel into aluminum .... just snug it with a gear wrench. no need for ANY locktite. The drain plugs integral rubber ring will prevent any leaks.

 

It's a big plug, and the threads are coarse. You'd REALLY have to try to strip it out. In fact, I'll go on record as saying that I don't think you're strong enough to strip that hole out using an 8" box wrench.

 

Using a torque wrench on an oil filter is not a good idea. There can be a lot of variability in how much torque it requires to compress a big rubber gasket like that. It's actually better and more accurate to measure the compression or in other words, to turn 1/2 to 3/4 turns after the gasket makes contact.

 

#torqueliesmatter

 

 

I used it!!! J/K

 

Very logical, well put post
Some things NEED torqued and some aren't so critical... others don't need it at all... I've been doing my own wrenching with great success for nearly 40 years now and I just bought a torque wrench last month...This is the first car I've worked on that I felt like I should use one on some things... the oil drain plug was NOT on the list.
Owning and riding Harley's did teach me to use LOCTITE on almost everything...

 

Universal Harley torque spec: "Tighten until the threads strip, then back off 1/4 turn."

 

that's funny, never heard it before.

 

I change the oil in 30-40 cars a day.. For 10 years, have never torqued a plug or used loc tite on anything

 

Then you've never owned an old Harley...
Pre-loctite things would just start falling off going down the road...NOT good!
Things like BRAKE handle, Air Breather Cover, Fender, Kick stand...YIKES...
along with oil leaks that the EPA would fine you for today...

 

Oh, that's a good one!

 

I guess I'm prepared at some level to believe that SnapOn or somebody makes a tool that allows you to do that, but I'm screwed if I can visualize what it looks like.

 

 

Got it...my brain was stuck on strap-style filter wrenches.
Seems like over the years I've had way too many vehicles that used oddball filters.

 

surely you are referring to panheads and shovelheads. Evolutions and twincams are as good as the best and better than the rest............

 

Shovels...panheads were even before my time...

 

You would lose that bet. The drain plug should be torqued at what--23 foot pounds( haven't checked actual amount--using memory )? I am strong enough and if distracted enough--could exceed that easily. Or you could go to any one of these quick oil change places and chances are you would find another individual that would readily disprove that it couldn't be stripped faster than a hooker.

There is a difference of doing something that you can get away with MOST of the time--and doing it correctly ALL of the time. And a torque wrench is that difference.

There is another issue involved: Steel and aluminum expand at different rates and what seems to be a moderate tightness at room temperature --could be excessively tight when the engine is at normal operating temperature. I bet there is someone on this forum that has had an issue of not being able readily to remove an oil filter and/or drain plug because someone excessively torqued it. I have.

And another issue--is that I want to make sure that the drain plug is actually tight--and will not fall out ! Same with the filter. I had a telephone truck,in my fleet of trucks, that had the oil pain drain plug finger tight after an oil change. I just happened to check it. I also had this trouble with my C5 when purchased. The dealership was very proud of the fact that the dealership provided new oil and new oil filter in their used cars. My filter was less than finger tight !

The torque wrench is our friend--and should be used at all times. I am not suggesting that you personally need to use it. But the rest of us that do not have a supernatural calibrated sense by feel-- of how much torque we are applying to a fastener--need to use a torque wrench. And it allows one to check their work--and make sure that all fasteners are tight.

 

I avoided the issue entirely by installing the drain valve mentioned earlier. I always worry about soft metal threads so now I have it set up with a valve, and have no worries about threading errors.

I guess if I was worried about random oil drainers wondering the town, as one poster feared, I would invest in some safety wire. I had originally thought to wire the thing, just because of the potential for disaster. But the design requires to lift the lever as it opens, you can't bump it open. If it gets bumped open, the accident will have been tremendous.

I once accidentally over torqued a wheel stud, snapping it cleanly off, on a new Toyota turbo something. I didn't think such a thing was possible, then I learned about non steel wheel studs. Too bad I learned the hard way, through error. to make it worse, the car was on loan to a girl .while the owner was out of town , and she called me to help with a flat tire.

 

I can't figure that deal out. Even with my C-5 on ramps, it's still a bit of a stretch for me to reach the drain plug. How somebody could be worried that at a car show, some fool could reach under the car and drain the oil, is beyond me............