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A/C heater blower

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Old Dec 20, 2015 | 04:56 PM
  #1  
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Vanover
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Burning Brakes
 
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From: Chesapeake Va
Default A/C heater blower

Is this normal,it blows fine when I got it 70 or below,but when I turn it on warmer it does not blow as hard.all the speeds work,it just don't blow as hard above 70.is there a acuator.
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 05:44 AM
  #2  
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Sounds like a blend actuator issue. Pull your dash trouble codes and let's see what it says. If you don't know how let us know.

Might try this also:

Re-Calibrating Actuators

Use the following steps to perform the calibration update:

1. Turn OFF the ignition.
2. Remove the battery positive voltage circuit fuse of the HVAC Control Module (fuse #27 in the I/P fuse box).

Important
The module memory will not clear if the battery positive voltage circuit fuse is installed in less than 60 seconds.


3. Wait 60 seconds.
4. Install the fuse.



Mr. Sam

Last edited by dadaroo; Dec 21, 2015 at 05:44 AM.
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 08:10 AM
  #3  
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Vanover
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Burning Brakes
 
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From: Chesapeake Va
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
Sounds like a blend actuator issue. Pull your dash trouble codes and let's see what it says. If you don't know how let us know.

Might try this also:

Re-Calibrating Actuators

Use the following steps to perform the calibration update:

1. Turn OFF the ignition.
2. Remove the battery positive voltage circuit fuse of the HVAC Control Module (fuse #27 in the I/P fuse box).

Important
The module memory will not clear if the battery positive voltage circuit fuse is installed in less than 60 seconds.


3. Wait 60 seconds.
4. Install the fuse.



Mr. Sam
I will try this when I get home tonight.
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 05:03 PM
  #4  
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Vanover
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
 
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 964
Likes: 124
From: Chesapeake Va
Default

Originally Posted by dadaroo
Sounds like a blend actuator issue. Pull your dash trouble codes and let's see what it says. If you don't know how let us know.

Might try this also:

Re-Calibrating Actuators

Use the following steps to perform the calibration update:

1. Turn OFF the ignition.
2. Remove the battery positive voltage circuit fuse of the HVAC Control Module (fuse #27 in the I/P fuse box).

Important
The module memory will not clear if the battery positive voltage circuit fuse is installed in less than 60 seconds.


3. Wait 60 seconds.
4. Install the fuse.



Mr. Sam
Pulled the fuse for 20 mins.still the same.
No HVAC codes.
Did have some
40 bcm B0502 h,c
B0507 h,c
B2482 h,c when cleared this one comes back.
A6-scm B2605 h
BO-RFA C2100 h
The pass.side blows harder.
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Old Dec 24, 2015 | 06:31 AM
  #5  
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dadaroo
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From: Columbia SC
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Sounds like the drive side actuator is stuck. It can be accessed by removing the Knee Bolster. As old as I am I would probably pull the dash pad for easy access. Very easy in the C5 which is amazing.

Might also be the dash control unit. I keep a spare just for diagnostics in cases like this.

We'll see if any one else has another idea. Bill Curlee is really good in this area. PM him with a link to here and tell him I recommended you ask his opinion.


I can provide all the DIY to replace anything you need/want to do.


Mr. Sam
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Old Dec 24, 2015 | 10:40 AM
  #6  
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Vanover
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Burning Brakes
 
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From: Chesapeake Va
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
Sounds like the drive side actuator is stuck. It can be accessed by removing the Knee Bolster. As old as I am I would probably pull the dash pad for easy access. Very easy in the C5 which is amazing.

Might also be the dash control unit. I keep a spare just for diagnostics in cases like this.

We'll see if any one else has another idea. Bill Curlee is really good in this area. PM him with a link to here and tell him I recommended you ask his opinion.


I can provide all the DIY to replace anything you need/want to do.


Mr. Sam
Is there a way to tell with one it might be
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Old Dec 24, 2015 | 11:34 AM
  #7  
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The only way I know that there would be a difference in air flow between HOT and COLD would be that one of the COILS would partially blocked. There are two coils. One for the heat (hot coolant) and one for the AC Cooling (Freon). When you select different temps, the air temp actuators blend doors open or cover the heat/cooling coils to make the correct temp.

In your case it would be the heater coil. I have no idea how it could have gotten clogged other than rodent infestation. Ive been down that road before:



That crap was everywhere in the system.

SO,, Pull the fan out and inspect the HVAC AIR BOX for crap. You may need to use a bore scope to see in that deep. All that stuff that you see was easily accessable and I was able to remove the remainder by hand and a vacuum hose.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Dec 24, 2015 at 11:35 AM.
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Old Dec 24, 2015 | 11:51 AM
  #8  
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Vanover
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Burning Brakes
 
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From: Chesapeake Va
Default

Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
The only way I know that there would be a difference in air flow between HOT and COLD would be that one of the COILS would partially blocked. There are two coils. One for the heat (hot coolant) and one for the AC Cooling (Freon). When you select different temps, the air temp actuators blend doors open or cover the heat/cooling coils to make the correct temp.

In your case it would be the heater coil. I have no idea how it could have gotten clogged other than rodent infestation. Ive been down that road before:



That crap was everywhere in the system.

SO,, Pull the fan out and inspect the HVAC AIR BOX for crap. You may need to use a bore scope to see in that deep. All that stuff that you see was easily accessable and I was able to remove the remainder by hand and a vacuum hose.

Bill
Ok thanks.just point me to the fan.
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Old Dec 24, 2015 | 12:27 PM
  #9  
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closeout panel and look UP!
Make sure that you do your ISOMETRIC STRETCHING before you crawl under the dach! LOL!



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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 05:22 AM
  #10  
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Thanks Bill, that is why I asked him to contact you. Based on what you said I reviewed the drawing in the FSM and I fully understand.
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 05:31 AM
  #11  
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The blower motor has 3 screws, a hose, and the electrical connector.
It's hanging on the far right passenger side under the dash.
Two of the screws are easy, the back one is a bit of a pain.
The hose will pop right off, just make sure you remember to
reconnect it.

Some pics here and also shows the panel you need to remove. It shows as already removed but you should get the idea. Just takes a few minutes so it is a good DIY job.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ment-info.html


Good luck, Mr. Sam
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