Goooooooooood Day,

I've researched this question to death but still not quite satisfied with answers so....

I'm working my way to getting my 2000 Z51 MN6 up to 500rwhp this summer with the help of twin turbos. The hp with come all at once but I am doing the drivetrain in stages.

Not doing the clutch yet.... but also will not be launching the car with DR's (or "Launching" it at all) so I'm hoping they will be the weak link until I DO upgrade the clutch (In the plans) but what clutch do people recommend for such hp? Stock C6Z06? C6ZR1? Dual Clutch?

I have a tunnel plate already to solidify the car a bit. But would like to know what people would recommend between using a DTE brace that ties the diff and trans together or the torque limiting Pfadt trans brace that basically solidifies the transmission to the car. Even with stock HP the drivetrain shakes if the tires spin (Although it's gotten much better since replacing the old tires) and I don't feel like replacing a rear end (however accidents can happen no matter what).

That's all I plan to do this summer. Next summer will be the DTE brace if I get the Pfadt mount now or Pfadt Mount if I do the DTE brace this year. I also will upgrade to C6Z51 sways and C6Z06 shocks next summer. Then the summer after that will be the clutch and most likely the torque tube bushing as well. I'm not sure if I'll ever spring for hardened half shafts unless I hear people strongly recommend otherwise.

Thank you for your thoughts!

 

BROTHER,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,, The second you open up and unleash that 500 RWHP on that basically stock drivetrain,,,, you will have problems and maybe some drive train breakage.

Here is a list of parts that you will need to address WAY AHEAD OF TIME before FULL THROTTLE DAY!

- Engine Mounts! They will most likely NOT be happy! You will need new OEM or EXPENSIVE poly mounts!

- Transmission mount: Look for and install a PFADT style mount.

- Torque tube bearings and rubber couplers: The rubber couplers and TT bearings can and usually are near death. Pull the TT apart and examine the bearings and couplers. If the couplers are not like new, REPLACE them with GM OEM. If you are really going to race the car, contact ECS and talk to Doug or Chris and get their advanced TT components.

Trans /DIFF Brace I recommend the ECS Trans /DIFF brace. It a very nice piece!

Differential!! OH BOY! Very WEAK LINK for that power range! Here are some post you need to study and some modifications you might want to undertake:

-
- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
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- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966

- C5, Its Go TIME, Differential Rebuild post: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...1&p=1591127325

- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html

If you have ANY wheel hop/drivetrain shake, you will most likely break an output shaft.
Your limited slip clutches and or Beleview spring are most likely not up to the task of that power level.
-


Transmission.. Good stuff to know: C5 ragtopws6, T-56 Build (whats in my tranny?) : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/nort...-smoother.html


CLUTCH! IT WILL NOT WORK with that power level. The clutch peddle will most likely stick to the floor under the very FIRST full throttle shift! You need one of the best clutches that you can find to have a trouble free transmission shift. You are looking at an easy $1000.-$1500 for a quality clutch and parts.

SHOCKS! YES! New "BETTER" shocks with proper dampening will HELP control drivetrain issues BUT, it is NOT the cure.

Hope this helps and your walled doesn't have a STROKE!


Bill

 

OH,,,forgot ONE thing! Stock size OEM tires are the DRIVETRAIN FUSE.

When you put that much power on stock tires, traction is a very real issue

WHEN, you change up to a sticky Drag Radial or slicks, " IF " you have any weak links in the drive train,, you will know in short order what they were!

 

I think you just blew his mind, Bill.

 

Yea,,, LOL! When my wife saw my little list of HAVE TO HAVE drivetrain parts (AFTER THE HEADS/CAM/FAST90 install) she just rolled her eyes.

It adds up VERY QUICK!

Just remember the performance rule

FAST, CHEEP, RELIABLE

PICK TWO; Cause you CAN NOT HAVE ALL THREE!

I purchased a spare MN12 Transmission and had it converted to a TRANSZILLA T60-60 internals, purchased all the C6 ZO6 differential parts, PFADT Mount, New GM Rubber Couplers, (didn't use them) ECS Brace, SPEC Dual Disk Clutch, Tick Master, all new clutch parts, remote bleeder, 3/16 aluminum tunnel plate, C6 ZO6 shocks, and some other minor stuff.

I didn't want to have to take the drivetrain apart for something that I could have fixed the first time.

Bill

 

600 rwhp here...
1st thing you should do is a clutch, your stock one wont hold at that power level.

I went with a monster stage 4 but there are better (more forgiving) clutches out there for more money.

After that its a matter of chasing down the weak points as they break

 

That clutch replacement is going to come sooner than later man....Don't fool with the sway bars. You need stronger parts else where.

No sense in pulling the drivetrain 2 or more times.

Do clutch, Brace, differential output shafts (at least left side), might as well replace the clutch packs in the diff (and the Bellville washer) (since your car is a 2000 and it's most likely cracked), and TT bushings.

I broke 3 c5 diffs all with mild and very fast wheel hop before I went to a C6Z diff.

Not trying to scare you, just being realistic.

Take what Bill said to heart. Saves time and money in the long run.

 

I would never disagree with these guys above cause they are right...

Now my experience over the past 2 years with an A&A ysi V3 with 500rwhp is the stock drivetrain has held up. Noticed you said you would not be launching hard etc...
My usage has been several trips down the 1320, only at low 12s so not launching hard either (more driver mod needed too) and am on Nitto 555s. Also have done a couple HPDE road events and of course the "occasional" spirited street driving - - so far so good...

All those things are on my list to do as time and money allow, but so far so good...

Just thought I'd offer my $.02...

Good Luck...

Oh, I hope you don;t mean wheel hop when you say the "drivetrain shakes", cause power level won't matter if thats happening

 

I've had 500 rwhp in mine since it was near new and have never broken anything. I do have a diff in it from RPM but don't think that I need it from a strength standpoint. I just went that route because I wanted 3.73s. I have run the car on the strip with DRs and do autocross it occasionally.

 

I'm at the 500rwhp mark. Pfadt diff brace and Spec Stage 3+ clutch. I haven't had any reliability issues, but then again I don't abuse the car. I launch hard every now and then but overall I roll on the throttle mostly.

Other members' suggestions are probably good ideas if you're going to be taking it to the strip.

 

although I do agree with being proactive and changing most if not all of what was recommended above you might be able to get away with not having to do a whole lot until you can afford to do more, of course this depends a lot on how you drive the car... if you can eliminate drivetrain shake/wheel hop, don't intend to hit the drag strip and launch it hard on sticky tires, and mainly do highway pulls or roll/half mile events I think you might be ok for awhile... the clutch is probably the most important thing to focus on first in my opinion... the stock clutch is a huge pos and many do not shift right even with stock power and it will have a hell of a time with 500+, you will probably never be able to fully enjoy the power the car makes... along with that I would also suggest aftermarket motor mounts and a diff mount as well... I personally like pfadts design and that's what I have but I am not a fan of their business practices, there are a few companies that have copied their design as well... also use high quality fluids, I am a big believer in this and I use the best I can afford and change everything more than most others would but that's just how I like to do things... if everything on your car is in good working order to begin with I think you could get away with doing those items in the beginning and still be able to have some fun, again assuming you are just doing roll race type driving... when I first boosted my car I did a twin disc clutch and also added dss poly couplers to my driveshaft, and I already had pfadt motor and diff mounts... I went to the strip a few times and never launched it too hard but most of my hard driving was high speed pulls... it lasted in the low 700s and now should be in the low 800s and was still going fine up until the point where I took it out on my own to do a tr6060 swap and after that is done I hope to never have a drivetrain issue

 

500rwhp mark on my car as well. Drive train still all stock except for the clutch. But I don't launch my car hard and run street (non DRs) tires. Can light the tires off but if they were ever to grip real good, quite possible something could break. Since my tires don't grip like crazy all that force ends up on the pavement and not broken drive train parts. As for the clutch, I'm running an ACT twin disk. 60k since install and not a single issue with it.

 

which one are you using?... I also have an act twin, part # t2s-g01... you don't see too many people in the vette world using them and are underrated in my opinion... they are a lot more popular in the import world

 

(Correction) I got the part number wrong in my head. The Part number I have is T1S-G05 (Twin Disk HD Kit) Torque Capacity 875. A&A was selling them after I did my supercharger install and blew out the stock clutch. Andy had one in his C6 Z06 and let me try the clutch in his car. Was sold after that. It's been a great clutch. But you're right, not popular in the vette world. And they are definitely underrated. No chatter or anything from day one.

 

580whp here (Z06)...obviously did a clutch, remote bleeder and rebuilt the torque tube but...otherwise stock on 345 rears for 2.5yrs and I drive it like a maniac with total disregard for the law.

 

Awesome! That you so much for your help, suggestions, and knowledge everyone! I really appreciate it and will move the clutch up the list. Maybe start with the pfadt style trans brace. TT bushings and motor mounts. Thank you so much!

 

Also Chrome C5, you have a GTM in your avatar. I'm pretty confident in saying I probably rank in the top 5 people who, handled, drove and put more miles on GTM's than anyone else. I know those platforms inside/outside/upside down and all around. So, if you ever go that route and have questions or need advice there, let me know.

 

Heck ya! I have a GTM in my avatar! I think they are awesome and have done quite a bit of reading on them, and read a lot of your posts about your experience building/driving them. Unfortunately it's not in my future right now however, if I'm ever lucky enough to go through the process of building one, I really appreciate your offer to help guide me/give advice with the build.

 

I've been at 550+ hp for over three years on a stock drive train. I've only had the car to the track a hand full of times. I've very few hard launches on the car. That said, the recommendations for powertrain are spot on. I plan this year to install a new clutch. If you are going to be racing, doing hard launches you should go for the drivetrain upgrades now. If you are going to occasionally to put your foot into it, you could probably upgrade the power train in phases.

 

I won't build nothing till it breaks
I just did a clutch, my 100k drivetrain been holding up 650+whp so far