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Just got a set of XS Power LT's, did a search and a lot of people claim to reuse their stock header bolts. I also read stories of guys breaking stock bolts so I guessing thats not the best idea. Was thinking of just getting ARP bolts, wondering what everyone is using. Also, what gaskets work best? Some metal style gaskets came with the LT's, wasnt sure how good they were. Opinions?
Just got a set of XS Power LT's, did a search and a lot of people claim to reuse their stock header bolts. I also read stories of guys breaking stock bolts so I guessing thats not the best idea. Was thinking of just getting ARP bolts, wondering what everyone is using. Also, what gaskets work best? Some metal style gaskets came with the LT's, wasnt sure how good they were. Opinions?
Just installed these exact headers on Sunday. I used the metal gaskets they came with, and reused the stock bolts. No leaks
I would recommend re-torqueing the bolts after a couple hundred miles just to be sure, which I plan on doing.
gm says to replace the bolts, when you torque the same bolts twice the reading wont be the same cause you strip some of the bolt, not sure why many people cheese out on new bolts. from gm they cost like $40 compared to the $$$$$$$$ you will spend if the bolt breaks.
im also going to install my headers soon, with the ARP STUDS (NOT ARP BOLTS) Gaskets i was thinking of getting comets.
If a bolt breaks It costs me zero because I just use an extractor to get it out
In all seriousness, use whatever makes you feel comfortable. If you feel like you need to stud your headers, go for it. It certainly will make holding the gaskets up a lot easier.
The stock bolts are torqued to 18 ft/lbs, so you aren't talking head studs here. If your stock bolts are in good shape, reuse them and you'll be fine. If they are a rusted mess, then replace them.
Brb, off to spend $60 on ARP headlight shroud bolts...
i reuse stock bolts a few times now no problems, i think guys who are braking them are torquing them down to much! IIRC the torque specs are 18ft lbs
if a bolt brakes in the aluminum i just weld a nut to it and get it out (weld wont stick to aluminum) so even if its recessed just fit it with weld and use a socket to get it out works pretty good in tight spots
Last edited by Stroker87; May 4, 2016 at 01:52 PM.
If a bolt breaks It costs me zero because I just use an extractor to get it out
In all seriousness, use whatever makes you feel comfortable. If you feel like you need to stud your headers, go for it. It certainly will make holding the gaskets up a lot easier.
The stock bolts are torqued to 18 ft/lbs, so you aren't talking head studs here. If your stock bolts are in good shape, reuse them and you'll be fine. If they are a rusted mess, then replace them.
Brb, off to spend $60 on ARP headlight shroud bolts...
(Not being a jerk, just having a sense of humor)
how are you going to say if your stock bolts are in good shape, do you not understand that every time you torque a head bolt you are stretching the bolt. there is a reason why GM tells you to replace them.
A stretched bolt also will not hold the same torque load as before, which may cause a loss of clamping force resulting in head gasket leakage
if your going to be an idiot no offence please try not to spread it. its people like you that than come years later and say ohh chevy have a defective head bolt issue because mine broke and ripped a hole in the engine.
I was looking at my stock manifolds & bolts last night and they look pretty rusty. Was concerned about their condition. Think I'll order a new set of stock bolts to be safe. Can't wait to get these on. thanks for the feedback.
him thinking it was about cylinder heads bolts i can under stand him calling you an idiot but since it was about header bolts its was ironic lol
I was reading his reply and halfway through thinking "man this dude is passionate about header bolts" until I saw head gasket leak and it all made sense.
For the record, I have never, and would never reuse HEAD bolts.
Well, this is just my experience... The first time I installed headers, I reused the stock bolts, and they worked fine. The second time, I did a H/C install, and cross threaded one original bolt on my brand new heads. About a month later, I had to remove those heads, and send them back for a rebuild, due to a valve tip wear problem from manufacturer. The company fixed the heads, including the stripped out header bolt, and sent me a set of ARP studs. Since that time I've dropped the headers three times for various work, and I really love the ease of re-installation with the studs.
Well, this is just my experience... The first time I installed headers, I reused the stock bolts, and they worked fine. The second time, I did a H/C install, and cross threaded one original bolt on my brand new heads. About a month later, I had to remove those heads, and send them back for a rebuild, due to a valve tip wear problem from manufacturer. The company fixed the heads, including the stripped out header bolt, and sent me a set of ARP studs. Since that time I've dropped the headers three times for various work, and I really love the ease of re-installation with the studs.
Yes I have read that ARP studs are the best way to go if you plan on removing them often. Makes sense because you keep them threaded into the head and just remove the nuts. I have no plans for head work on mine, may do a cam further down the road but doubt I would pull the heads. Going with a new set of stock bolts for an added piece of mind. Can't wait to get them on and have the car tuned.
Yeah, I've done headers on my old 97 z28 with aluminum heads, had those on and off a few times. I am aware that it can be easy to damage them. Thanks for the heads up.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
stock bolts work just fine, I have reused them many times with no issues and they are 10.9 grade just like most other aftermarket replacements out there so you aren't gaining much other than looks... if you want some that look nice there's nothing wrong with that either but other than that or being physically damaged there really isn't a reason to change them out in my experience... I ALWAYS get every bolt started by hand and I will run them down as far as I can with my hand and a socket (no wrench) and then I will torque them down, don't forget antisieze on the threads... I also use nothing but gm mls gaskets... as stated above it's a good idea to retorque them after a few heat cycles