Hide a sub?
Question is, does anyone know the easiest way to install and hide (under seat?) a hide away sub/amp together in low profile compact housing?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_109BASP...9935305&awdv=m
I have stock HU, will not be changing anytime soon. I did replace the front and rear with Polk speakers.
Don't need some panty dropping radio, just a touch of bass.
The easiest way is to forego the expensive and puny package subs, and just put the amp and sub of your choice in the rear center storage compartment. IF (and only IF) you use a "Class D" amp, you can put the amp in there too, and it won't overheat; otherwise, you'll have to mount a Class A/B amp in the storage area somewhere. The Pyle Class D is cheap and really nice, I have two. The center compartment will easily accept any 12" sub (just cut the compartment lid or use an adapter), and the storage compartment gives a decent enclosure. This will drop panties within a couple blocks at least :-)
You also will need a PacAudio AOEM-Vet1 converter. it allows the use of the Bose system PLUS a separate amp and sub. I have one on eBay right now for $17. <now sold - thanks>
But allow two suggestions:
1) you may as well get a 3- or 5-channel amp. Put two 6x9's in the left and right storage compartments, super-nice sound addition to the Bose system.
2) Replace the stock head unit NOW. It's easy. If music and not watching movies or navigation is your goal, you can get inexpensive Single-DIN shallow-depth head units for $75 anywhere that mount with no hassle, no cutting and look great. This puts you in touch with USB and smart-card direct-play for your MP3's (no aux input device or wires etc), or any satellite radio like Sirius etc. You will need a slightly different converter to also use the Bose system (Pac Audio ROEM-Vet1) but install and cost is the same as just adding the AOEM + amp and sub.
Last edited by smartadze; May 25, 2016 at 02:17 PM.


With a screen name like yours, I knew you would understand

Bill aka ET
Last edited by Evil-Twin; May 25, 2016 at 11:20 AM.

The easiest way is to forego the expensive and puny package subs, and just put the amp and sub of your choice in the rear center storage compartment. IF (and only IF) you use a "Class D" amp, you can put the amp in there too, and it won't overheat; otherwise, you'll have to mount a Class A/B amp in the storage area somewhere. The Pyle Class D is cheap and really nice, I have two. The center compartment will easily accept any 12" sub (just cut the compartment lid or use an adapter), and the storage compartment gives a decent enclosure. This will drop panties within a couple blocks at least :-)
You also will need a PacAudio AOEM-Vet1 converter. it allows the use of the Bose system PLUS a separate amp and sub. I have one on eBay right now for $17.
But allow two suggestions:
1) you may as well get a 3- or 5-channel amp. Put two 6x9's in the left and right storage compartments, super-nice sound addition to the Bose system.
2) Replace the stock head unit NOW. It's easy. If music and not watching movies or navigation is your goal, you can get inexpensive Single-DIN shallow-depth head units for $75 anywhere that mount with no hassle, no cutting and look great. This puts you in touch with USB and smart-card direct-play for your MP3's (no aux input device or wires etc), or any satellite radio like Sirius etc. You will need a slightly different converter to also use the Bose system (Pac Audio ROEM-Vet1) but install and cost is the same as just adding the AOEM + amp and sub.
Exhaust, air intake, new wheels & tires, suspension upgrade, etc.
So really looking for the easiest way to install that cheap little self powered sub & how to connect it to factory head.
Appears that adapter is the answer on connecting it, wonder if anyone else has done it & knows if it will fit under the seat?





They HIDE GOOD! "SILENT SERVICE"



There are ONLY TWO types of ships in the world "SUBMARINES" and "TARGETS"


Bill
this is a pick of my JL 10 (amazing punch for a single 10") in a spec'd enclosure i built for it and my amps mounted on my partition, the nitrous stuff is not finished so its a little messy back there still
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
this is a pic of my JL 10 (amazing punch for a single 10") in a spec'd enclosure i built for it and my amps mounted on my partition.
But that's a $1500 system, whereas the compartment option is a $200 system. I have both (2x12" in sealed boxes and another with ported boxes), but I have to say that the compartment version does a very good job. It will also outperform just about any package sub (have auditioned several).
Last edited by smartadze; May 25, 2016 at 01:34 PM.


I went with 2 Sound Ordnance B-8PT units, although one would have sufficed. I can't even come close to cranking the bass without it shaking the car apart. Mine are mounted behind the seats on the deck, and they don't interfere with the convertible top. Plus side is that they don't take up any valuable storage space in back. Of course, I also replaced my entire sound system while I was at it with new head unit and speakers all around. There are adapters available for the C5's stock HU that will allow the addition of amps/subwoofers. It's just an easy install when you only have to place and wire a single unit. I believe these PSWs will actually fit behind the seats, too.
Here's a link to Crutchfield for these: http://www.crutchfield.com/shopsearc...ered_subs.html

Last edited by c5vetteguy; May 25, 2016 at 02:27 PM.
JL audio
JX400/4D $250
JX500/1D $300
10W3v3-2 $300
head unit $100
wire kit $100
plus the focal 165AS components set $300 & $150 for the rear speakers you pretty much nailed it i'm abut $1600 deep by the time i built the box and ran around for every thing lol
the best sub you can use for the compartment cover would be a "free air" sub they are meant to be used in places you cant make air tight
I went with 2 Sound Ordnance B-8PT units, although one would have sufficed. I can't even come close to cranking the bass without it shaking the car apart. Mine are mounted behind the seats on the deck, and they don't interfere with the convertible top. Plus side is that they don't take up any valuable storage space in back. Of course, I also replaced my entire sound system while I was at it with new head unit and speakers all around. There are adapters available for the C5's stock HU that will allow the addition of amps/subwoofers. It's just an easy install when you only have to place and wire a single unit. I believe these PSWs will actually fit behind the seats, too.
Here's a link to Crutchfield for these: http://www.crutchfield.com/shopsearc...ered_subs.html


I would imagine those might fit under the seats also.
How tough to add 2 compared to 1 for a DIY job? Do you use one adapter and split the feed that runs to the subs? Is there a different adapter for 2 units?
Do you have to run through the firewall to the battery on these amp/sub units? Is that a major pain in the C5?
Better off buying from a store and just letting them do it for the extra money?
What about unplugging the **** woofers in the door? Or does the adapter for the subs basically take care or rerouting those frequency signals?
Last edited by Fayeilding; May 25, 2016 at 02:40 PM.





Can you post some detailed pictures on how those are mounted in your car.
The other question I have is: Can they be driven off the OEM C5 Head unit? "What does it take to make them work?"
My aftermarket Stereo experience stopped when I sold my 67 Impala
Question is, does anyone know the easiest way to install and hide (under seat?) a hide away sub/amp together in low profile compact housing?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_109BASP...9935305&awdv=m
I have stock HU, will not be changing anytime soon. I did replace the front and rear with Polk speakers.
Don't need some panty dropping radio, just a touch of bass.


How tough to add 2 compared to 1 for a DIY job? Do you use one adapter and split the feed that runs to the subs? Is there a different adapter for 2 units?
Do you have to run through the firewall to the battery on these amp/sub units? Is that a major pain in the C5?
Better off buying from a store and just letting them do it for the extra money?
What about unplugging the **** woofers in the door? Or does the adapter for the subs basically take care or rerouting those frequency signals?
I wouldn't disconnect the door mid-bass speakers as they are still fed via the BOSE amp(s).
The adapters I'm thinking of (and had one early on before revamping everything) allows the addition of ipod/AUX lines and also an external amp or two, if I'm not mistaken.
To get the whole scenario on audio for the C5, I recommend calling Dennis at Double D (a vendor here) and he'll set you up with anything from the adapter to a whole system. He's very helpful when it comes to this stuff.
Good luck with your audio upgrades. Let us know how you decided to go.
They cannot be driven off the stock head unit. My sub and speakers are powered by an Alpine PDX V9 5 Channel amp.
Last edited by o2bnkc; May 27, 2016 at 02:04 AM.
Me,
USS Edwards DD-750
USS Benjamin Stoddert DDG-22
USS Joseph Hewes FF-1058
USS Enhance MSO-437
USS Gallant MSO-489
Haze grey and underway!!
Last edited by o2bnkc; May 28, 2016 at 01:28 AM.








